Nutplates finally installed for hardtop!

[JK]

Finally got around to installing nutplates for the hardtop hardware. Ended up being much less of a nightmare than I prepared for, so that was a bonus. I had to do something, because I built the rear quarter sub enclosure, and once the cage is installed, you cant remove the enclosure, so no access to the bottom of the bolt. You would have to take the cage out to bolt on the top, but then you would be unable to reinstall the cage with the top on! A jigsaw puzzle of pain-in-my-ass. The logical thing to do was rivet in some aviation grade 5/16-24 nutplates, solving basically all of the above problems.

Pretty basic for anyone who hasn't done it. Set the nutplate on the bedrail, run a bolt up into it from the bottom with it centered in the hole, then mark/drill/countersink the 1/8" rivet holes on either side.

A basic nutplate, plus the bedrail thickness necessitates about a 3/8" long rivet. I bought 1/2" rivets to be safe and cut them down. Broke out the rivet gun and weight and started making noise.

A Video for those who have never done it. (Click on picture below)


Work awesome and very easy to install.

I looked into nutserts, but read some bad reviews about long-term quality. I know some members on here have had good luck with them though. I'm Active Duty Air Force, and use these (or similar) nutplates on aircraft everyday, so hopefully they will hold up in the Bronco like they do on the jets!

 

[spap]

Looks good curious what the brand name is or manufacture
Thanks

 

[JK]

Brand name on what? The nutplates? Not sure that they are branded. Just look up an aviation supply/hardware store and tell them you need a 5/16" floating nutplate and #8 rivets.. Here in Oklahoma City, I used Bethany Hardware Inc. The nutplates and rivets cost about $15 total.

 

[76_fordbronco]

Your bucking those rivets, someone else would need to add the cost of the riveter to the $15.

 

[JK]

Or borrow one like I did...

 

[dtm030]

Looks great. I was thinking about doing something better than the regular nuts and bolts I have now before I get the bedliner put down. That way they shoud sit flush with the sprayed liner right?

 

[sprdv1]

Nice work bud and great idea..

 

[76_fordbronco]

Or borrow one like I did...

You are correct sir!;D

 

[707Bronk]

Thats awesome. Nice work!

I like those even better than nutserts. I use nutserts at work, and they do tend to slip or spin if not done properly or if the threads sieze or rust.

These look like they would hold up a little better and not get spun out as easily.

 

[JK]

Looks great. I was thinking about doing something better than the regular nuts and bolts I have now before I get the bedliner put down. That way they shoud sit flush with the sprayed liner right?

Wouldnt really matter whether you do it before or after, since you use countersunk rivets. You would countersink enough to sit flush with the lining.

 

[Fireball05]

JK - very nice solution. I too looked into using nutserts and didn't think they'd fit the bill. So I built a plate out of some scrap 1/4" steel and welded the nuts onto it. If you look at the first picture you'll see that when I removed the HT, there were indentations from where all the nuts pulled the top of the quarter panel up. So I pounded those flat, and decided to build the large plate to keep it from happening again.

Your nutplate solution is probably a bit quicker and easier than what I did.

 

[JK]

Does the plate stay in place when the top is removed? Or do you have to take it in and out?

 

[Fireball05]

I drilled and countersunk for two small screws per side to the plate in place. This way it is still removable if for some reason I would need to, but like your design does, allows for it to stay in place if I get rear quarter trim panels.

I also have plans to build a nice aluminum strip that will cover the holes in the summer when the HT is off. Planning to run with a bikini top, and think the piece of aluminum will finish it off nicely.

 

[TheGanzman]

Sorry to resurrect this after so long - question: Did you also install the Nutplates across the bottom of the windshield frame? If not, is there any reason why one couldn't? FWIW, I will NOT be running a windshield wiper system...

 

[Fireball05]

Thanks for using the search feature!

I didn't build a strip for the windshield frame just because that area is a lot easier to access. That area is also smaller/shallower so you'd have to be mindful of that if building a plate.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

 

[JK]

I thought about it, but the goal was to make top removable/replaceable with the rear quarter interior trim in place. Fireball's plate would be tricky at the windshield due to limited space. The nutplates would be doable, but getting any kind of weight or other ripping surface to a few of the spots might be a pain.

 

[jbawall]

I worked on airliners for 16 years and those rivets that hold the nutplates in place are pretty soft. I used to use a punch and a hammer to squeeze them. I bet if you were careful you could use some channel locks, maybe with some tape on them and squeeze them down on the windshield frame.

 

[73azbronco]

How did you manage to what look like counter sunk or flared in the nut plate to make it flush?

 

[Crawdad]

Ahhhh, another sheet metal guy! I'm a metals tech guy, we all work together and pick on one another about stupid stuff. I've always liked those floating nut plates. Not to mention all those drawers of rivets!

Only concern I would have with your approach is the dissimilar metals being in contact. We're the rivets u used steel rivets? I guess a good coating on both sides from a primer pen will slow it down. Keep up the good work!

 

[JK]

How did you manage to what look like counter sunk or flared in the nut plate to make it flush?

I countersunk the holes for the rivets.