• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Paint pricing and opinions.

Nathan43

Full Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2014
Messages
318
Loc.
Provencal, Louisiana
Well I've been planing out my bronco since the day I bought it and have come up with a mostly complete list of parts. And money to get just about all of it too. The only thing left is paint. I'm going to try to get a localish shop to get er done, because I don't know enough about it. Just the body and top will be painted by the shop. I'm saving for most of it and going all in once enough money is saved for it, that way it won't be apart for any real amount of time or be put on a back burner.

It'll be painted back the original ginger color and white. No stripes, for right now any way. I hope to have the dents and rust fixed and the body stripped. Everything will be taken off.

I'm wanting a decent paint job, nothing show winning quality per say, but for it to last a long time.

1.AROUND what should I be expecting to pay the shop to do it? Materials,paint and time. Paint brand tips welcomed.

2.Also I can't decide what to paint the frame and axles with?

3. What brand,type, and color matches the 74 engine color best?

4. What was the color of the transfer case? Tranny wasn't painted correct?

5.Good brand of sealer to seal where the metal laps and where the hard top is put together (between where the sides and top meets)?

6. Last one. Any recommendations on something to paint the inside of the frame, rocker panels, floor braces, tailgate?

I haven't gone to a local shop for pricing yet, just trying to see what I'm getting myself into.%)

Thanks
Nathan
 

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
15,772
Loc.
Stockton, CA
If you're planning on having it blasted, body work done, axles and frame painted, body and top painted, I'd be expecting to start at $10,000 on the low end.
 

Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
1. This can have a huge range depending on the condition of what you are starting with. If the body work is done and it is ready to shoot, it could range from under $1K from a quick and dirty place like MAACO or Earl Schieb to more than that in just quality primer and paint for $4-5K and on up from a reputable shop.

2. We completely disassemble chassis, pressure wash, sand blast, prime with self etching primer or PPG DP epocy primer sealer, and top coat with PPG ALK200 Chassis Black.

3. Ford blue is the color, there is an early and later shade (can not recall the year breaks off hand, so pick the right one. Bill Hirsh and several others make engine paints in the correct colors.

4. Bare from factory. We paint them in cast iron gray. No, transmissions were also bare. We clean the aluminum bell housing on the C4 and leave it bare (I really do not like the look of aluminum paint), and paint the main case cast iron gray. Cast iron gray on RAT / RAN manuals as well. TIP: When I am painting mulitple parts cast iron gray, I use a couple different brands so I get a slight variation since all new cast iron parts are not the same exact shade.

5. 3M or Fusor 2 part epoxy self leveling seam sealer. You will need a special dual applicator gun. You might be able to borrow one from a local paint shop (my local PPG dealer loans them with a deposit). It will take two tubes, they cost about $50-60 each. This hold up much better than the tradiational (latex based?) seam sealer.

6. Eastwood has some products for coating inside the frame with long tube spray nozzles that have radial spray jets (can also use a regular spray nozzle on the same can for easier to reach spots).
 

Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
Are you planning on having it ALL done by the shop, or are you going to do the frame, drive train, rust repair, and body work and have it ready for the body shop to just paint (or possibly have them also do some final sanding and prep before paint).

I was assuming the later, but if you are planning to have them do it all, yes, at least $10K.
 
OP
OP
Nathan43

Nathan43

Full Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2014
Messages
318
Loc.
Provencal, Louisiana
Are you planning on having it ALL done by the shop, or are you going to do the frame, drive train, rust repair, and body work and have it ready for the body shop to just paint (or possibly have them also do some final sanding and prep before paint).

I was assuming the later, but if you are planning to have them do it all, yes, at least $10K.

Yes the later. It'll be mostly ready just a dent I need fixed.
 

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
920
In CA it just cost me 10k to strip a 66 Mustang to metal, do minor body work, and paint everything except the dash and interior trunk. That was from an average paint shop.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Doing it myself,

Once the sheet metal was repaired and I started epoxy priming, filler, sealer, seam sealer and paint with all the sand paper, solvents and economy level paint I was 1200 dollars doing it myself in my yard. Prep cost is all the same paint can vary from $50 a gallon to $1000 a gallon. The product I used was $120 a gallon solid color no clear coat. This is a no show stopper street paint job.

Add shop labor to a body metal prepped ready to prime all filler work done without major work, sand, seal and paint my guess 40 hours @ $100 an hour your adding another $4000 if they want to do it and get it done with.

The Earl of Scheib or Macco is half day sanding and masking with a team of guys, seal, and paint with their brand of paint. Maybe 24 man hours and cost of paint. All their services are tiered so its hard to figure their actual costs and what you will pay when you walk out the door. The basic level paint is not that good and you will find flaws as the paint job is only as good as the product is prepared before he shoots it. Over spray, masking issues and sub par sheet metal work is not repaired, just painted over. step up to other tiers You get better paint and better prep work at a greater cost.

Your hardest time will be finding someone who wants to do it.

If I wasn't doing it myself I would try to find a specialty Bronco shop to do the replacement sheet metal work. They know the way Broncos are put together, know how to take them apart and have access to the right sheet metal parts and know where the fit and finish issues are important.

They can do it in half the time that someone whose hasn't done a Bronco can. Make sure the doors , tailgate fenders and hood and windshield frame are all installed and aligned properly, and then take it to the painter. The Bronco shops may know a good painter that willing to work with them.
 
Top