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Pro Comp Electronics cylinder heads

Wyo4x4er

Full Member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
282
Ok so i am planning on building a stroker out of my 351w block i picked up for 25 bucks. and with the stroker I am naturally trying to consider some new cylinder heads. I was considering making a 408 clevor but im kinda kicking it to the side because of the thermostat housing and the custom accessories brackets needed. But I am not totally against it yet. Idea of the build is a dd stump puller. I did however come across a company called Pro Comp Electronics. I noticed they were being sold by jegs and called a tech there and he said they are really good as big names but without the price.

anybody used these guys before?
 

badmuttstang

redneck grease monkey
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
2,807
By the way there are tons of threads with stuff about the pro comp heads on here and mustang forums just way to many bad things to list
 
OP
OP
W

Wyo4x4er

Full Member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
282
so it seems like the clevor might be a better route after all. The guy I talked to a jegs said that they we good heads they just didnt have the big name price tags.

Can anybody give me some direction on an old school clevor build?
 

74strokerbronco

Full Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
321
Loc.
Monmouth, OR
DO NOT BUY ASSEMBLED PRO COMP HEADS, lots of issues with the quality of parts, quality control sucks for the valve seat grind etc. like there jig ground and not true to the guide causing valve and seat and guide issues.

now the castings themselves bare can be okay and when the seats are ground correctly squared to the guides and assembled by someone that knows there shi* and double checks all the machining and then uses quality parts i.e valves, springs, retainer, locks, seals ect they can be made into a decent head. I only say decent because if you ever laid your eyes on a set of there 210cc intake runners from the valve side with no valves in them you will see how square and under cutting the valveseat they are I.e. poor port and casting design. without a complete message of the intake port and seat in as received form the 210's with a 2.05 valve will barely flow a true 255cfm at .600 lift.

a local guy here has custom built and remachined many many sets of these in bare form and with his quality parts has had great luck with zero issues so far after 5 years of sales he estimates around 60 sets so far.hell
even some of his being used in a solid roller circle track motor for 3 years now that screams along lap after lap from 6-8k now on the other side he just got done repairing a set off a customers motor that was brought to him (heads acquired elsewhere and assembled by pro comp with pro comp parts) with only 500 miles on them and the guides were the worst he had ever seen with wear in the .053 range after only 500 miles , so extreme the brass coming off the guides were actually coloring the back of the valves bronze!! to make matters worse when he measured the guide bores they were .503 3 thousands over. he had to custom order a set of 9/16th guides and remachine the guide bores and then regrind all the seats 90* square to the guides, new valves, springs etc.

for a set of his complete done right sbf pro comp heads he starts at 800.00 a set and up from there depending on application.
 
Last edited:

ryan287

Full Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
190
Loc.
Orange County, CA
Even the "nicer" assembled $1500-2k heads typically come out of the factory w/o perfect valve symmetry. The builder on my current stroker engine (420w) checked out the tolerances on my brand new AFR 185 renegades and found 6 were out of spec. He had another customer before me request to have everything meticulously checked during his build and found even worse tolerances on his afr's. That guy had him wipe the logo off his AFR heads he was so pissed.

Lesson I learned is that AFR and some others may have unbelievable flow characteristics and superior runner CNC machining and design, but it still really takes excellent, skilled, and honest machinists to get high performance engines right.

I still have my slightly used Edelbrock RPM heads sitting in my garage from my last build, but I wanted a stump puller and the flow #'s and Mustang/muscle car forums seamed to like the AFR's.

Those same forums priced rebuild Edelbrock RPM heads at the $700-900 range and get a lot of praise, and my machinist would've been happy to use mine. Point being, really nice high quality heads are in your price range, just used.

Might just look for a used set in your area off of the forums. Good luck
 

KyleQ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
5,480
Sweet - my TFS heads look like they are going to perform!
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Lots of mixed reviews on the pro comps as was said maybe buy them bare and use good parts in them and you'll have little to worry about but then your cost will probably be what a better named brand would cost.
Overall just get you a set of better named brand heads with 2.02/1.60 valves your building a stump puiller not a hi RPM drag motor the biggest valves and most flow is of no real help to a lower RPM motor.
A clevor is a nice talk piece which can be done still gonna cost you. but what heads do you have to work with both the 2v and 4v have drawbacks. If you have the aussie heads then you may get the best of both worlds.
 
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