Removing a broken engine stud / rocker stud

[fireitupgarage]

When I pulled my 72 off a farm the owner told me that 22 years earlier he had broken a rocker arm stud after only a few thousand miles on the build. Frustrated he parked it and before he knew it 22 years had gone by. I tried out a universal stud remover that had some great reviews on Amazon. It looked a little Mickey Mouse- but worked like a charm. If you ever need to get out a broken stud this one might be worth a try. I was able to find some NOS matching parts and will be throwing it back together soon. Only thing I can't decide on is to use a similar style stud or to swap it out for an ARP while I have it out. Tips? Check it out and you can subscribe in youtube if you want to see the updates.

Rocker Arm Stud Removal Vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPOv56X3Kpw&t=6s

 

[blubuckaroo]

Great tool to have on hand.
How could that have broken? Over tightened?
Are you going to pull another rocker to measure a push rod?

 

[fireitupgarage]

Great questions blubuckaroo. It is not unheard of to break them. There is actually a section in the original 72 service manual on replacing a broken one. I think this one might have had more likely in the quality of the screw end studs used. There was no noticeable damage to the valve or valve spring so I dont think it had a crazy collision. That's why I am considering swapping them out for ARP. (Also the guy I got it from was a dirt track driver- so I'm sure he wasn't babying it) I pulled the rocker arm and pushrod from the next position to get the specs. Thats how I was able to find the part numbers on the TRW rocker and the pushrod (i forget the brand of that now) Luckily I found a matching rocker NOS on Ebay and the pushrods are still available . (it had the part number stamped directly on it) Hoping to get it back together soon!

 

[pcf_mark]

Getting the pressed in studs out is just hard work. I never pressed a new one in with the head on but I am sure someone here has.

Why it broke is a great questions. By the age it should have had plenty of life to go. Carefully crank the engine over hand watch the space between to valve springs. At full lift you should still be able to stick a paper clip between the center most coils. If not then the valvetrain of not set up correctly and you have some coil bind. That brakes studs pretty quick. It could also be incorrect pushrod length - slowly rotate it around and watch the tip of the rocker on the valve. It should start off on the top of the valve but bias toward the carb then as the rocker moves work it's way across until bias on the exhaust side. Then check that the rocker slots and studs are not beating each other up - pop a few off and make sure other studs are nice and smooth not boogered up. If these check out press in a new stud and drive it!

 

[Skytrooper15]

The video I watched had a 289 with screw in studs and a damaged valve stem head or is that a valve cap?Are we talking about the same engine here?