removing old painted bedliner

[johnbeck]

What is the best way to remove bed liner on the Bronco bed floor portion with the raised and lowered parallel 2" bars? I've easily sanded the flat bed areas and the tops of the parallel bars, but the 45 degree sides and the bottoms are a challenge. Sandblasting crossed my mind but seems like a messy procedure for just the bed bars only. Thanks Additionally, The bed floor and walls have small rust spots here and there. Would rolling POR15 as an undercoat on the entire bed area be foolish overkill? Should I just spot prime all the rusted spots with POR 15? Thanks

 

[Attac]

Try some aircraft stripper or zip strip. It should get under the bedliner via the primer /paint under it and lift out.
I have started PORing the underbody of all the new ones we build. It is protected from uv under the truck and it is a very slick surface to wash off compared to bedliner type material. When we paint the underside we spin it all around on the roticery so it runs through any seam it can. Use the etch before painting.
Chuck

 

[Eoth]

Stripper and a wire wheel on a cordless drill.

 

[Rustytruck]

heat gun and a scraper. Wear a respirator. a twisted wire, wire brush in a 4-1/2" grinder will probably push it off.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-4-in-Carbon-Steel-Stringer-Bead-Wheel-48-52-5010/100031806

 

[Steve83]

If it's thick enough, it can be peeled off by hand.

 

[johnbeck]

Attac, do you always paint the under side black? I was considering gray to be able to see fluids, wiring harness, fuel lines easier when working underneath. That said, as infrequent as I hope to do repairs, I'm thinking the additional color of gray under carriage with black frame may appear to be too much. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[fordguy]

i was able to cut and get under the commercially applied bed liner and pry it off in huge pieces. the tailgate came off in one complete piece, had the ford letters in it. should have kept that for door mat lol.

 

[Lunar-tic]

heat gun and a scraper. Wear a respirator. a twisted wire, wire brush in a 4-1/2" grinder will probably push it off.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-4-in-Carbon-Steel-Stringer-Bead-Wheel-48-52-5010/100031806

^^ Times two, this is what I did. Then used POR in the seams before using seam sealer.

 

[johnbeck]

I couldn't find my heat gun so I used paint stripper. Worked great! I need to replace some of the seam sealer- any product better than another(In a caulking tube, foot long strips, other)? Thanks

 

[Attac]

Attac, do you always paint the under side black? I was considering gray to be able to see fluids, wiring harness, fuel lines easier when working underneath. That said, as infrequent as I hope to do repairs, I'm thinking the additional color of gray under carriage with black frame may appear to be too much. Any thoughts? Thanks

Haha. Black works on ours because of the colors we have done but we are thinking of doing the next one with a brushed aluminum topcoat after the POR. I live in coastal fla and rust is not our friend. If I was gonna do a light body color or something like metallic teal I would def do a grey or silver under. All personal preference.

I couldn't find my heat gun so I used paint stripper. Worked great! I need to replace some of the seam sealer- any product better than another(In a caulking tube, foot long strips, other)? Thanks

Caulking tube. I use 3m and do yourself a favor and get a battery or pneumatic caulk gun. Seam sealer is not super soft like caulk. Prime where you are putting sealer and after it cures a day or so take some sandpaper like 320, fold it and run it in the seam to scuff the paint. Tape both sides of seam and then put an even steady bead in the seam. Then dip finger in thinner and run down bead to smooth. After that peel tape off before sealer dries. Then you can finish coat with whatever paint or liner you may be using after the sealer cures. Get it right before it dries. It doesn't really sand very well.
Chuck