Replace three speed and clutch

[67RT]

I am not a tech but have done general stuff like adding electronic ignition, carbs, intakes, etc. never done u joints, or major engine work. Could I tackle a tranny and clutch solo?

 

[.94 OR]

If you have tools to lower the transmission/transfer case out you should have no problem. You will need some sort of pilot tool to center the clutch disc on the flywheel when you bolt it back in, otherwise, just mostly hand tools to pull things apart. Take a bunch of digital pictures before and during the removal in case you have any questions where certain things went or how brackets fit back in place.

 

[SteveL]

If you pull the tranny & t-case in 1 piece it will want to spin toward the weight of the t-case. Just be ready for it.

 

[hotrodtim68]

Clutch Replacement

You posted a very important safety issue to be aware of. Remember the effects of gravity and weight. Best to use { rent; borrow; buy$ } if need be a trans jack or something for similar use. if pulling that transfer case and transmission together. Be sure to have a helper when pulling and reinstalling the units .

 

[thegreatjustino]

Replacing a transmission was the first major project I undertook after learning about working on my Bronco. The absolute worst part of it is getting the transmission lined up and back in. Even after doing it half a dozen times over the years, I still hate that part of it. Beyond that, what everyone else says is correct. Basic hand tools and watch out for the weight. Some clutch kits come with the alignment tool as well.

 

[SteveL]

To guide it back in get a couple long bolts and cut the heads off. Use em as guide pins to slide it all back in. Get a decent grade of bolt for holding the weight. It can be done by yourself like that(with a jack too) but is much easier with help. You will also need a pilot bearing puller too to do it.

 

[67RT]

At this point I don't have a helper, a pinion puller or a tranny jack, so I will be outsourcing. Luckily I do know a former Ford dealer tech that works out of his garage. How many hours do you think is fair to be billed for this job?? I really appreciate all the help so far..

 

[thegreatjustino]

Full day's work to replace a clutch. 6-8 hour job.

 

[surfer-b]

IF the pilot is a bushing and not a bearing just keep packing grease into the hole, get a bolt or whatever that will fit into the pilot hole snug, you want it to fit good but not to the point you cannot pull it out, then push/hammer it in, the grease will push the pilot out. You may have to repeat this several times but it will push it out. This will not work with a bearing.

 

[67RT]

Shifter Adjustment

I just went in and adjusted my Hurst floor shifter. It made a big difference. I am still getting some weird noise cruising at higher rpms, especially on decel which may be a throw out bearing. Can't describe it, between rattling and a grind?? Anyway, no issues shifting into any gears anymore!!

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Go for it. It's not that hard, but it is intimidating. Where are you located? Maybe a Bronco brother is available to help.

 

[m_m70]

Just did this a couple months back. Most frustrating part for me was disconnecting the linkage for the transfer case shifter. Even with a 1" BL it was tight. Went ahead and cut an access panel in the tunnel and re-install was a breeze. Now I'm all set to twin stick it when that time comes.
Get a hydraulic tranny jack. I rented one for 22.00 per day (cheap really) and that made the job much easier than it was 15years ago when I did it without one.
I also bought a couple of small ratchet straps to strap the tranny down tight to the jack. It WILL want to roll with the wait of the t-case.
Using alignment bolts makes things much easier and I wouldn't do it any other way.
It's not as hard of job as it sounds.
Good luck and work safe!

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've always done it by myself. I don't have the patience to wait for help to get here.%)
I find it easier handle the boxes separately. Handling the transfer case either way though is a booger. The way it's shaped, makes it want to roll. I've actually dropped mine twice. A good floor jack and a couple of ratchet straps works.
Unless you have a substantial body lift, you'll need to tilt the drivetrain down in the rear after removing the cross member. Watch your fan/radiator when doing this. I usually just pull the fan or radiator off so they wont be damaged.

 

[67RT]

Great, a local brother just gave me his old three speed, so I will attempt to rebuild this one myself if it needs it. This is a great site. He also gave me his hurst floor shifter, and thankfully so, because when I was adjusting the shifter, I dropped one of the clips into the tunnel. I had four sitting on his shifter! My 50 mile trek to the Baltimore MVA was so much better without a clunky shifter..

 

[69red]

I pulled mine separately, but when I separated the tranny from the T-case the tranny output shaft pulled forward and dropped the needle berarings into the tranny. i didnt notice until i had the tranny back in and the T-case wouldnt mount up %) . so I had to pull it again, and put the bearings back in. it was much easier lining it up the second time

one thing i also did was group the bolts into separate, labelled zip-loc bags -- "Bellhousing to block", "fly wheel to crank", "t-case to tranny", etc. it saves a lot of grief, especially if you need to pause for a week or two when life gets in the way of wrenching.

 

[67RT]

I pulled mine separately, but when I separated the tranny from the T-case the tranny output shaft pulled forward and dropped the needle berarings into the tranny. i didnt notice until i had the tranny back in and the T-case wouldnt mount up %) . so I had to pull it again, and put the bearings back in. it was much easier lining it up the second time

one thing i also did was group the bolts into separate, labelled zip-loc bags -- "Bellhousing to block", "fly wheel to crank", "t-case to tranny", etc. it saves a lot of grief, especially if you need to pause for a week or two when life gets in the way of wrenching.

Thanks for the tip. I may try to rebuild it but it may be over my head. I have a spare in my garage that I was told was good, but it should be gone thru before installing..
The more I think about it and results from reading threads, I think maybe my input shaft bearings are going and not the throw out, as it makes the noise under load without clutch engaged. More severe in third gear on highway..
Does anyone know what to expect if I let this go a while. It shifts and drives nicely and noise is not terrible at all. I assume it will get worse over time and metal in gear oil will damage gears, shaft, etc..