Reverting back to stock from t-bird calipers- banjo fitting

[broncnaz]

The 96/4 doesnt really make sense. Not saying its not right but it doesnt sound right at all. 4% in the rear is nothing. Of course its only numbers in theory not in real world plus its at max braking where weight transfer is highest. So it could make sense.
If it was only 4% then I wouldnt even bother swapping brakes. Hell you could tie a brick to the bumper and throw it out when you want to stop for 4%.
Really I probably wouldnt bother swapping at all and fix what you have. Yeah I know you dont want to even go there. :-[You could very well run into the same exact issue since the only thing your really changing is the calipers. While larger calipers will give you more clamping force at less PSI they also take more volumne and if your current calipers are moving but not clamping at all then your issue is somewhere else in the system. So swapping to different calipers may not be the answer that fixes your issue.

 

[ntsqd]

I don't pay any attention to numbers on something like this, it's too subjective to say "XX/YY bias is what you should run". Dial in the fronts then bring up the rears until they ever so slightly lock before the fronts lock in your worst case driving scenario. All those calculators are really good for is getting the hydraulic balance close w/o a p-valve or LBS in the system. After that its cut and try until you're happy (or tired of working on it).

There are Load Sensing Proportioning Valves if your loading varies a great deal. From experience with the Toyota versions I wouldn't bother until your 'to-do' list is very short.