Simple carb coke question...wanting to know what works best...

[bobhudson]

New to the Bronco world, just purchased my first Bronco on 12-27-2009. Bought a 1975 Bronco with factory 302, since purchased, I have put a new set of tires, oil change, tach and gauges, new plugs / wires / coil / cap and rotor, and I just rebuilt the factory 2 barrel carburetor because it was a little hard to start but ran great once it warmed up. It's running a lot better now, but the carb choke sticks sometimes. What I'm really wanting to know is should I replace the choke with a new thermostat choke like what is on it, or should I change it to an electric choke, or just make it a flat-out manual choke? I know it needs to be replaced and this is a simple problem, but I just wanted some general feedback on past experiences from other forum members as to what works best. Using the Bronco as a daily driver and this is the only hiccup I have had so far. When I get tiime I will try to post pics of my new family member, I always wanted one, so I bought it.

 

[barronj]

This was posted in another thread- there's lots of good advice in this link.

http://www.ponycarburetors.com/default.asp?page=faq&category=2

13-17 will answer your questions.

 

[surfer-b]

Welcome, sounds if you have a nice rig and are off to a good start. One thing I would check, I know it want fix a faulty thermostat on the choke but it will help it work proper, is the heat riser tube that is suppose to be connected from the exhaust manifold to the choke, you may already be aware of this just thought I would throw it out there.
How about some pics of that new Bronco.

 

[broncnaz]

If your choke is sticking at times there is probably still some carbon or dirt in the mechanism which is causing it to stick I'd pull it apart and clean it up see if that fixes it.
Really all depends on what you prefer. I like manual chokes but then again here where I live I rarely need a choke. Even when its very cold my bronco always starts good and choke use is minimal.
On the other hand a automatic choke is just that automatic so you wont have to remember to open it like you would a manual choke.

 

[bobhudson]

I checked the heat riser tube when I disconnected it to pull the carburetor to rebuild and I made sure I hooked it back up when reinstalling. While rebuilding the carb, I spread the choke coil and cleaned thoroughly with carb cleaner. I think it might just be old, does that come into play? I'm kind of leaning more towards a manual choke so I can make sure it turns off when it's supposed to. Any advice on converting to manual choke, or is it pretty cut and dry, just remove the auto choke from the carb and hook the carb up to the pull cable. I can't think of anything else that would cause it to stick, it's nothing major, it just bothers me when I put it in park and it's still idling high. I appreciate the quick responses and plan on hearing more from me as I make this new bronco more my own. I'll post some pics as soon as I get a chance. Thanks again.

 

[broncnaz]

Usually theres a small piston in the choke housing that gets carboned up and causes the choke to stick usually the coil spring will last forever unless its been way over heated(which would probably melt the choke housing anyways.) or has broken
The manual comversions are pretty simple usually just remove the cover with the coi in it and replace with the manual conversion and you can block off the heat tubes at that time.

 

[rsharpnm]

Sounds like it could be the fast-idle cam, too. When you put it in park and it idles too high, can you pop the gas pedal to lower the RPMs? If so, then the choke is still cold and stays on the fast idle cam until warmed.

Also, you mention the one heat riser tube... do you have a second tube, usually to a vacuum source or intake that draws air across the choke coil from the tube to the exhaust manifold? If not, then hot air isn't getting to the choke coil quickly enough, which would also keep the choke on longer than you want.

 

[surfer-b]

I changed to a manual choke on my 76, I just like it better, but everyone has their prefrance. I like simple.

 

[72_EB]

Both work well if you've got the proper set up on there. Converting an Autolite/Motorcraft 2 barrel from manual to electric is not as easy as say a Holley 2300 2 barrel. The Autolite manual choke carb body is slightly different than the Autolite heat riser or electric carb body. The 2100/2150 carbs began as manual, then heat riser only, then heat riser w/ electric. Does your carb still have an ID tag on it? It is possible it has been modified already and that might be another reason the choke is not working properly.

 

[matts70]

Don't feel bad. I experienced a lot of frustration getting the choke and fast idle cam set right after I rebuilt my 2 barrel. I just switched to a 4 barrel and went with a manual choke. Much easier. It's not hard to remember when to turn your choke off. . . the engine will remind you!

 

[bobhudson]

This has all been very helpful. Thank all of you very much. I believe I've decided to go with a manual choke, it gives me more control of what is going on. I still can't get over how helpful and quickly everybody responds. Thanks again. I'll try to get some pictures up in the next couple of days.