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Spray painting body - Which primer to use?

BeardedBlues

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Messages
592
I got this Bronco in March and have installed an 8 point cage, body and suspension lift and seats. Right now I have a Painless harness, front bumper and all new lights/lenses sitting on my shop floor. After the wiring is all brand new I will install disk brakes, a new drivers side floor pan and have some minor body work repaired.


With all of this cash spent, I'm wanting a little financial break so I'm planning on spray painting the body in an attempt to hold off a professional paint job for about 2 years and curb some body rust that could turn into a problem. I am planning on removing the old paint with a Macro-Strip 4.5" grinder wheel and plan on using Rust-oleum flat green (the camouflage green) and Rust-oleum automobile primer.

She won't be a mall queen and I'm expecting paint scratches soon after she is driveable. Anyone have any other cheap suggestions for a 2 year paint job?
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,493
it takes 13 cans to paint a bronco.
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
If your going to rattle can your rig, why bother stripping anything down, I'd sand down any scratches and prime them, then scuff the old paint and spray bomb it...
 
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NicksTrix

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 1, 2001
Messages
6,389
why not just stay with the rustoleum primer?
if you plan to paint it in 2 yrs they'll strip it to bare metal anyhow. no reputable painter is going to paint over that base.

curious why you plan to strip it? why not just scuff it and spray over what ever is sticking? the factory primer and paint has been on there 40 yrs.
the spray can stuff will never last like that.
 

bad 68

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
921
Loc.
Northest Washington
Removing paint with a grinding/sanding disc will concentrate heat where your grinding and cause warpage. There is a good chance when your done the panels will be waving right back at you. It's really not recomended. If you want to srip all of the old paint you should do it chemically or with blasting. If you just want to create a good serface for new paint adhesion a DA (dual action sander, [random orbit]) would be the tool of choice.
 

sp71eb

Sr. Member
Joined
May 31, 2012
Messages
578
Loc.
North Liberty, Ia
If your looking for olive drab style green check out tm9 ordinance they sell gallons of olive drab #8 for 89 bucks a gallon and it looks badass. It covers in about one heavy coat and will look way better than spray can and will last for way longer. This is a buddy of mines 4runner we did at work with it.
 

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bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,917
If your looking for olive drab style green check out tm9 ordinance they sell gallons of olive drab #8 for 89 bucks a gallon and it looks badass. It covers in about one heavy coat and will look way better than spray can and will last for way longer. This is a buddy of mines 4runner we did at work with it.

Tm9 ordinance? I like that color. What is this tm9 ordinance?
 

rjrobin2002

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 13, 2007
Messages
2,706
I dont spray paint anything anymore, just go buy a harbor freight HVLP gun and go get some rustoleum paint in the quart from lowes/walmart, thin it, and spray it. You will get 1000 times better result and spend half of what 13 cans of spray paint cost.
 
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BeardedBlues

BeardedBlues

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Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Messages
592
Thanks for all of the replies! I was planning on stripping it because the bronco has 4 coats of paint on most of the panels but.....since I'm rattle canning it I guess spending the time to strip it down doesn't really make sense. I'll sand down the problem areas, prime and then rattle can. Thanks again!
 

hc37180

Full Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2012
Messages
229
Loc.
Seattle, WA
Thanks for all of the replies! I was planning on stripping it because the bronco has 4 coats of paint on most of the panels but.....since I'm rattle canning it I guess spending the time to strip it down doesn't really make sense. I'll sand down the problem areas, prime and then rattle can. Thanks again!

Go the route people suggested. It would take alot of etching primer if you are down to bare metal and those run more than regular primer (generally). Also if you have some areas like in the bed where the rust is getting bad you can run a wire wheel over the areas (don't grind it out) and then put some coats of rust sealer over the area (Napa carries this stuff and I am sure marine paint suppliers). It will seal in the rust and you can scuff it up, sealing primer it, then shoot it with color. If it will be a couple years until your paint job this can keep the rust at bay until then.
 
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