T shifter T-Case to dual sticks.

[TexasBronco]

Ok here is the deal I am gonna do the twin stick thing.....but can't right yet. I am rebuilding my tranny and t-case at my High Schools Auto Tech Class. I am not able to fab up the custom parts there, but have the tools at home so rather then carrting stuff back and forth I will do it after I drive my Bronco Home.

What I need to know is...... What is a possible problem of removing the "pills" yet still using the Stock Tshift pattern? This will be totally yemporary just for the 12 mile drive to my house.

And I have TOTALLY taken apart the t-case. While doing this I removed a ball and spring from the top left of the case where the two blots are. And a ball fell out when I removed the 2 shifting rails. When I rebuild it I just leave those out....right? anything else need done?

 

[TexasBronco]

Also I plan to have the case itself cleaned. Basically drip the part in an acid, then house it off with high power water. I did this to my carb and looks almsot nex, my question is.....the little plate on the side of the case, is there a way to remove it and then reattach it later?

 

[bert]

I haven't make the conversion to twin sticks, but the way I understand it the interlocking ball between the shift rails is the one to leave out. That is why total dissasmbly is required. The other two balls with springs are the detent balls, they hold the rails in place after shifting. If I'm wrong someone will correct me. Good luck.

 

[swood]

I don't believe you have to do anything different with the transfer case, Unless, you wish to have total independant shifting ability front to rear. The case will shift as it always has in the stock condition, just smoother with dual sticks instead of fighting the single lever action style.

If you want to be able to shift into front wheel drive only for example, then you need to remove the center detent ball.

 

[bert]

Swood, I understand the shift possibilities with the detent ball removed, what is the shift lever sequence on the twin stick if the detent is left in?

 

[swood]

My whole drive train is torn apart right now as well, however if I remember correctly it goes like this:

2 Wheel Drive High (rear drive)
Neutral
4 Wheel Drive High
4 Wheel Drive Low

I do not remember the exact physical rail positions though. When its torn down you can tell just by looking at the gears and moving the rails in and out. Kind of self explanitory then. I will just put it back together and eventually get it out in the sand to "figure" it out.

 

[blackjack]

By me just replacing the T shifter to a dual shifter I can't just shift into from wheel drive??? I thought all you had to do was replace the shifter because that is what is limiting the positioning of the gearing???

Someone fill me in on this and how do I go about making it so..

Thanks
Blackjack

 

[swood]

If you look at the two shift rails when they are removed from the case, you will notice a series of indentations or cutouts. These are there to interract with the spring-loaded balls in the housing. One purpose is to hold the shift rail in place once it is in gear. The other (and you will notice this by the shape of the cutout on the rail) is to stop you from shifting the rails into an incorrect position in relation to one another. I'm not sure how else to describe it. Basically if they both moved freely you could find yourself with the front wheels in hi and the rears in low or some goofy combination like that. That was the design purpose.

SO, if you do decide to remove the balls, you just have to memorize where each stick should be for what setup you want. As I said, I have not done this so I am not the expert. Someone will post on the board with more experience on the topic. I plan to just leave the balls in personally. I can't think of a time when I will need to run in front drive only.

 

[edge4]

Texas,
For the 12 mile drive home, you will be fine. Just make sure your in 2 wheel high and the front axle is not engaged. You could even leave the front axle off.
On the "J" case the welded fingers on the front of the shifter are the critical parts. The 1 internal detent rod (pill) can actually stay in when converting to twin stick. (I've done it) On the "T" you have 2 internal detent pills to control the relationship of one rod to the other because the shift levers have no interlocking fingers. (just connected by a cross bar).
With both the "T" and "J" you must continue to use the 2 external spring loaded detent balls to hold the shift levers in gear. There is a great factory manual and pictures at:http://home.epix.net/~bohn/doug_bronco/dana20_transfercase_manual.htm

 

[Hnrys69]

So to run a twin stick with the Tshift case, do you need to take the whole thing apart to have 2wheel low and front wheel drive????

 

[bert]

[quote author=HNRYS69 link=board=5;threadid=16521;start=0#msg125913 date=1050726819]
So to run a twin stick with the Tshift case, do you need to take the whole thing apart to have 2wheel low and front wheel drive????
[/quote]

Thats the way I understand it. Take it apart to remove the shift rail interlocking balls.

 

[TexasBronco]

[quote author=edge4 link=board=5;threadid=16521;start=0#msg125907 date=1050725951]
Texas,
For the 12 mile drive home, you will be fine. Just make sure your in 2 wheel high and the front axle is not engaged. You could even leave the front axle off.
On the "J" case the welded fingers on the front of the shifter are the critical parts. The 1 internal detent rod (pill) can actually stay in when converting to twin stick. (I've done it) On the "T" you have 2 internal detent pills to control the relationship of one rod to the other because the shift levers have no interlocking fingers. (just connected by a cross bar).
With both the "T" and "J" you must continue to use the 2 external spring loaded detent balls to hold the shift levers in gear. There is a great factory manual and pictures at:http://home.epix.net/~bohn/doug_bronco/dana20_transfercase_manual.htm
[/quote]

Thanks for the link, but when i was taking my case apart I only have 1 external springloaded dent ball. I bought the $125 rebuilt kit off of jeffs, but it just has the balls. Is the spring a part I can find at the hardware store?

 

[edge4]

I would think you could use any similar tension spring. On the "J" D20 there is a yellow spring and a red spring for the external balls. (I assume these were designed with different tension for each shift rail, but I could not tell a difference between the two when I rebuilt mine). Remember there is also a little washer between the ball and the spring. Be careful when installing the new yoke seals on your rebulid. They can be bent easily if pressure is not applied evenly, thus creating a leak.
Also a part that is not in the rebuild kit but is extremely important is the little o-ring that sits in the base of the yoke to prevent leaks around the shaft.
On the earlier question: Yes, unfortunately the "T" must be dissassembled and the detent rods(pills) removed to have full twin stick capability.