Tips for lifting off fiberglass body?

[Nickm1024cobra]

I used the search function but didn't find much. Im ready to lift off the fiberglass body for the first time. I've got the front clip off. Tub is much heavier than I expected. Kentrol tub I believe. Im thinking a rope around the front, rope around the back, and lift it from the center with the engine hoist. Its hard to get 3 other guys to help out.

If you had a slick method of safely getting it on and off, id take some tips! Or even a "this is what not to do"

 

[langester]

Not sure if you are planning to or not but, I would still brace the door openings to be safe if it was me.

 

[Nickm1024cobra]

Not sure if you are planning to or not but, I would still brace the door openings to be safe if it was me.

Appreciate the suggestion

 

[allenfahey]

When I did my glass body I used an engine crane on the middle and rear body mounts. Fiberglass bodies don't flex like a steel one does. Especially a rusted steel body.

You have a lift there. Will the Bronco fit under it with the windshield frame folded? You could pull the Bronco under the lift and use the lift to pull it too.

 

[Broncitis]

Not really different than with metal.

2 post lift under rockers is my preferred method at my shop with my forklift with jib boom attachment and rigging my second.

I have also lifted several with a hoist and a couple with engine cranes. You MUST have doors or door braces installed with any of these methods or it will want to fold like a taco.

When using rigging to lift from above, I usually lift from the cowl where the windshield knobs/bolts attach and from the front seat belt retractor holes or the body mount holes near them.

A couple pics of one we set back on at a friends as shop last month with a hoist.

 

[grant_71]

My "what not to do advise"

I have an old Kentrol (I think)...

BRACE THE $#!T OUT OF IT!!!!, I didn't, thinking that the glassed in steel would be enough (young and stupid), brace the door openings, tailgate openings and most importantly the right inner fender where the heater box goes.

I had (and still have some) stress cracks in the rockers and the right inner fender was almost completely broken from the shop that did my paint.

 

[sxr800]

We have a Bronco design trail tub. the inner door insert area is not finished so we can get to the steel frame. We attach straps at that point for now and its worked fine a half dozen times mocking stuff up. But once we glass that all in I was thinking I will probably jack the body enough to get some 2x4 blocks under the body mount areas. Not the front just the floor board and behind the seat mounts. ( This is where we have been lifting so far ) Run an eyelet style bolt thru the body mount hole thru the block, washer, and nut on the treaded end. Run equally tensioned straps to our winch above. Should be just fine for the trail tub.

 

[Nickm1024cobra]

I ended up putting a rope under the front and back, and lifting it up with my 4 post lift. From there, I rolled the chassis out and dropped it on the ground on some 4x4 blocks. To get it on the trailer and to storage I used some eye hooks thru the body mount bolt holes and picked it up with the engine hoist. Moving forward I think I will just lift from there. I was surprised how thick this body is. I'd be surprised if it "folded like a taco". As I get closer to mocking up for paint I will build some supports for the doors and tailgate.

My cobra kit car body is like a flimsy eggshell compared to this thing.

She is torn down and ready to start building. The next two weeks I hope to get the frame back from powdercoat, install front and rear disk brakes, new hubs, etc, then hang new suspension. Within a month have a little rolling chassis.