Traction Lock Shims

[pcf_mark]

This is my first traction lock rebuild but not my first plate style posi. I put new plates (soaked) and steels in and used my .030 thick shim that I took out. When I rotate it on the bench by slide an axle in one side and that axle is clamped in a vice, then rotate the diff by a ring gear bolt the rotating torque is around 40 ft-lbs. Seem low but I am also not on the center so it is more torque than i am reading on the torque wrench closer to 60 ft-lbs. Based on my GM experience I would shim this pack tighter.

I do not have any other sims laying around. I took it apart and took the .030 shim out and put an old .050 plate in it's place. Put it all back together and now my rotating torque in around 60 ft-lbs. Again I am off center which if my math is correct is closer to 85 ft-lbs.

Has anyone done this before? Will this cause any harm? This hat type design is new to me. On a GM style shim it until the springs are almost collapse for max traction but I can't see anything inside. I don't want something to bottom out and wear like crazy.

Thanks for your feedback.

 

[pcf_mark]

So i did some research and setting a traction lock up tight like an eaton will cause it to wear quickly and have rough lock/unlock action in turns. I am putting it back with the stock shim and new clutch pack and see what we get.

 

[Quick & Dirty]

This can happen if you shim too much.
The issue with 9" clutch type LS is that they only have one clutch pack. The large pinion gear and 3rd bearing don't leave room for a pack on that side. They wear faster than other axles that use 2 clutch packs.