Welding up holes in the body?

[mattyq17]

Is there a trick to welding up holes in the body? I want to close up the holes from where the stock spare tire carrier attatched. Do I have to put something behind the holes and then fill or cut round fillers and weld them up and then grind it smooth? I dont want to use body filler because I feel that the holes are too big and I want it done right.

Matt

 

[Clint]

Is there a trick to welding up holes in the body? I want to close up the holes from where the stock spare tire carrier attatched. Do I have to put something behind the holes and then fill or cut round fillers and weld them up and then grind it smooth? I dont want to use body filler because I feel that the holes are too big and I want it done right.

Matt

Depends on how big the holes are. For small holes, just weld em up and clean it up. If its like a bolt hole of decent size, I would take a pattern, cut out some sheet metal and weld a screw to it. That way you can hold in in the hole while you weld it in. Then just break/cut the screw off and finish cleaning it up, apply filler, sand and paint...

 

[Fishbone]

Clint's suggestion works good.

Another way is to cut a strip of sheet metal narrow enough to fit in the hole, leave it way too long. stick it in hole, go in just far enough to get slightly behind the panel, hold on to the other end. Then tack the end that is in the hole. After that you can use a cut off wheel to trim off the excess, and push the loose end in to match the other side. Then weld it up.

That's what I do with holes ranging from 1/2" to 9/16". If it's smaller than that I just weld it shut. Filling marker lights or other large holes, I like to make an exact filler, and butt weld it.

Whenever possible I like to avoid overlapping patch panels.

 

[Galt72]

Pull the right size nail up thru the hole. Weld and cut off.......

 

[Mark]

I used a copper pipe end on the end of a wooden dowel.
Removed the rear tail light, poked the wooden dowel through there until the copper pipe end block the hole and welded them up.
Weld doesn't stick to copper.
Then smoothed the weld to the body line with a flapper wheel.

 

[eb66to77]

There are brass floats that are used for things like this. You hold the float behind the hole and start welding. The welder will arc on the brass but not stick to it then you fill the hole in and grind/sand it down. If the holes are big enough, you are going to want to use some metal.

 

[eb66to77]

I used a copper pipe end on the end of a wooden dowel.
Removed the rear tail light, poked the wooden dowel through there until the copper pipe end block the hole and welded them up.
Weld doesn't stick to copper.
Then smoothed the weld to the body line with a flapper wheel.

Nice, same idea with the float.

 

[SC74]

I used a copper pipe end on the end of a wooden dowel.
Removed the rear tail light, poked the wooden dowel through there until the copper pipe end block the hole and welded them up.
Weld doesn't stick to copper.
Then smoothed the weld to the body line with a flapper wheel.

That's what I do too. We have a stick of thick copper aprox. 8" long x 3" wide x 3/8" thick that we use for nothing but backing up welds in larger holes.

 

[Millermatic]

That's what I do too. We have a stick of thick copper aprox. 8" long x 3" wide x 3/8" thick that we use for nothing but backing up welds in larger holes.

I just tried this, and it works great.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[mason44]

I weld up my trim holes by building up small spot welds starting at on edge of the hole and then going over it with a weld to strengthen it after the hole is completely filled. The heat will shrink the metal in a little, you can heat it and shink it back out, or bump it out with a hammer. Can weld holes up to around half inch in diameter and just takes a minute or two each hole done with a mig

 

[Madgyver]

Use a patch for those holes.... magnet to hold it in place and once the 1st tack is on position it to a good fit and weld.

I have a copper pipe that I use for smaller holes with no wooden dowel.. All you do is flatten one end.....

 

[Crankshaft67]

Use a patch for those holes.... magnet to hold it in place and once the 1st tack is on position it to a good fit and weld.

I have a copper pipe that I use for smaller holes with no wooden dowel.. All you do is flatten one end.....

I use the same trick as Madgyver, 1/2" copper pipe flattened on one end, I have even folded it over on its self a couple times, but really it doesn't need to be.

Also if you can, on larger holes where you add a patch and you can, weld both sides... I like to weld the none showing side first, this gives a little more mass to the sheet metal when I weld the exposed side. I can play with the settings then to put in a little better weld...

 

[dieselracer]

Aluminum and carbon work too! I use large carbon brushes from big electric motors. But I have used a 1" x 1/8" aluminum flat stock, you can bend it how you want to get into tight places. Just wear welding gloves, it gets hot.

 

[Mark]

one concept, one hundred variations
brass, copper
It's all about what you have laying around, if I had copper pipe I may have used that, my copper pipe end though fit perfect on my dowel sitting in the corner and has a flat side and a rounded side. Doesn't transfer heat either.

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

I used a body dolly and works good for some applications. Used copper for a lot of things. But mainly use aluminum. I always back up any sheet metal welding with aluminum, when possible. It will draw the heat out and keep metal from warping and drawing up. When welding a hole, just drop a spot on at a time. Dont run a continuous bead. Too may times you will burn thru and will all fall on the floor, or worse your foot. Or its built up on top and just grind thru it when cleaning up. I like to tap the edge of hole in slightly and then it will tend to fill in more flush and still have some thickness. In places where exterior panels are butted together, I will weld from the back, using aluminum on finish side. Then almost no grinding is needed. And no warpage. Works very well if able to do this way. When welding spot weld holes like floor pans, I have someone to push against the blind side(new panel being welded in) with a piece of aluminum round stock. I can get 100% penetration, no burn thru, no warping, and a perfect "appearing" spot weld finish. No grinding needed.

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Just use a small piece of sheetmetal as a backing and weld a welding rod to it. Stick it through the hole and pull it around until it fills most of the hole. Pull on the rod to keep it flush with the back of the hole and weld over it. This provides you with some backing and you just fill in over it. I use a flap disk to smooth it out. I had to use some filler to make it smooth. If it's a bigger hole, go slow. I welded too quickly and warped some sheetmetal.

 

[mattyq17]

thanks guys for all the suggestions I will get started on them next week