Which p/S lower shaft? Borgeson or Flaming River?

[Blue71]

I am going to get a new lower steering shaft because the 2"body lift is to much . I 'd like some comments if possible on the Borgeson and the Flaming River lower shafts.Borgeson makes one that has a telescopic slip shaft that is a direct bolt on to your original rag joint. Make you shaft like 3" longer if you need it.

Flaming River has the 2 u-joint style with a u-joint on the steering box end and one where it meets the upper shaft.I think you have to cut the upper shaft to use this style. It is also telescoping. Which is better , stronger, safer, easier to install.
PLease let tme know. I am gonna order one tonight if I can.

Or if you have cut, tubed, or welded one..how safe is that? It would save me 200 bucks to cut it and tube it ,but I wanna be safe too.

Thanks Much,

Blue71

 

[Desert Thrasher]

I got the Flaming river shaft that WH sells. It was very easy to install and the directions were good. I had the original 1 piece shaft so I had to cut it, which isnt a big deal at all. It works great and looks very trick, I prefer the Flaming River stuff over the Borgeson JMHO though.

 

[slyjki]

when you decide let me know im in the same delima, but i had one that was cut and tubed (not by me) that worked fine. I am real hard on them. My only sugg. is to do away with the ragjoint if you wheel at all.

 

[kwspony]

I made my own. I have the F-150 power steering box that came with a ujoint at the box. I did buy a ujoint from Flaming River for the end of my GM tilt column. Then I went to the wrecking yard looking for something to fab up and came across the shaft out of a GM steering column. It is a slip shaft, longer then I needed. So I cut the upper tilt yoke off and trimmed it down some. Then I welded the lower end inside the old ujoint. It is a 3/4 shaft and fit in the ujoint perfectly. Then I ordered the upper ujoint. The end of my tilt column is 1" 36 spline and the shaft I found was a double D. All in all it cost me about $85. 75 for the ujoint and 10 for the shaft. It works great!

 

[TJK74]

I'm running the flamming river set up. It's a very nice and stout unit. I cant speak for the borgeson but I'm happy with the flaming river set up. Looks and works great and no signs of any steering bind at all. I'd but one again!

 

[Dusty]

Here's another vote for the Flaming River setup. Its prolly not the cheapest but it sure is nice. I put mine in at the same time as an Ididit column so attaching it to the column was a bolt-on affair with the correct u-joint.

Dusty

 

[Blue71]

Dusty,

Can you tell me a bit about how the u-joint attaches to the top part of the column where the rag joint is/was? Did you have to shave a flat spot on it or cut a grove so that the u-joint wouldn't turn or slip. What holds it secure there, it's not splined right? Do you have a picture of th connection. I really appreciate the picture of the area where it meets the box that you posted. Looks great. Thanks to all for the advice too. Looks like I will go flaming River.

Thanks Much,

Blue71

 

[TJK74]

blue 71
The one I put on my 74 was splined at the top. not sure about Dusty's. Mine fits on the existing splines that were under the rag joint bracket. Yes you do grind a flat spot in the shaft to hold the joint on. There is a set screw and locking nut that holds it on the shaft. If you would like I can send you a pic. You can email me at amsoilrep@yahoo.com and i'll send it your way. Trevor

 

[supermottl]

my g/f has a Brogeson (sp?) shaft on her CJ. It's nice with the u-joints and all, but they don't coat the shaft with anything, so now it's rust colored, which kinda blows... other wise it's real strong and feels good

 

[70_Steve]

I made my own. I have the F-150 power steering box that came with a ujoint at the box. I did buy a ujoint from Flaming River for the end of my GM tilt column. Then I went to the wrecking yard looking for something to fab up and came across the shaft out of a GM steering column. It is a slip shaft, longer then I needed. So I cut the upper tilt yoke off and trimmed it down some. Then I welded the lower end inside the old ujoint. It is a 3/4 shaft and fit in the ujoint perfectly. Then I ordered the upper ujoint. The end of my tilt column is 1" 36 spline and the shaft I found was a double D. All in all it cost me about $85. 75 for the ujoint and 10 for the shaft. It works great!

I did exectly the same thing.. well almost. Installed the F150 box. Bought the 3/4x3/4" and the 3/4x 3/4 splined Spicer u-joint from WH. Went to the recycle yard and found a GM double-D shaft that fit. At the time the 2 u-joints cost me $110, and the shaft was $10. Works great!!

 

[csangster]

Double D shaft question

I did exectly the same thing.. well almost. Installed the F150 box. Bought the 3/4x3/4" and the 3/4x 3/4 splined Spicer u-joint from WH. Went to the recycle yard and found a GM double-D shaft that fit. At the time the 2 u-joints cost me $110, and the shaft was $10. Works great!!

70_Steve,

Looking for an education...what is a double D shaft, how can I identify it if I go to the wrecking yard?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[TJK74]

Re: Double D shaft question

70_Steve,

Looking for an education...what is a double D shaft, how can I identify it if I go to the wrecking yard?

Thanks,
Chris

Its easiest described as a round shaft with two flat spots on opposite sides like the two pics below. The flat spots keep the shafts from turning in each other yet allow the shaft to colapse or extend like a drive shaft does. hope this helps

 

[TJK74]

Pic 2

 

[csangster]

Re: Re: Double D shaft question

Its easiest described as a round shaft with two flat spots on opposite side like the two pics below. The flat spots keep the shafts from turning in eacj other yest allow the shaft to colapse or extend like a drive shaft does. hope this helps

Completely understand.......thank you.

Chris