why no gasket when replacing 9" 3rd member ??

[DonsBolt]

Yo guys
I have been reading a bunch of posts about installing new axles and 3rd members for when I do my rear end next week.

I just don't understand why I keep seeing people say not to use a gasket when the instal a 3rd member?? I have read at least 20 members here saying don't use a gasket.

I can understand when doing a trail repair a gasket may not be available, but when you take the time to replace everything, set up the tooth pattern, and all that why not use a gasket.

I know the gasket is only about 1/32 or so thick, but that could be just enough to keep the main carrier bearings from wearing out, or making sure the rear tires track properlly, and not be slightlly toed in.

If the 9 inch wasn't ment to have a gasket, then why did ford design it with one. Since the gasket is only 4-5 bucks why not use one?????

 

[JWMcCrary]

The gasket alone will leak. I use a gasket sometimes, but when I do it gets silicone on both sides. I've just never considered it a necessity, most of the time a good bead of silicone and bolt it up with no issues. We just put Bradlee's rear together recently and got a gasket since we had one.

 

[bmc69]

The gasket alone will leak. I use a gasket sometimes, but when I do it gets silicone on both sides. I've just never considered it a necessity, most of the time a good bead of silicone and bolt it up with no issues. We just put Bradlee's rear together recently and got a gasket since we had one.

x2. The gasket will leak without RTV liberally applied to both sides, so what it the point of having the gasket?..and the gasket thickness is completely irreleveant to the large tolerances in play...it would barely account for 7 HUNDREDTHS of a degree of difference in axle to carrier alignment.

 

[Mark]

Here's the ticket...
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...uto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm

The Right Stuff

 

[j.blakeslee]

don, they just have better products on the market today, than they did back in the day. same thing with the intake... fat bead of sealer front and back(of the intake and no gaskets) the "paper like" gaskets just leak over time. But i do see your point about 1/32. did you ask the guys you got the 3rd member from about their toughts??

 

[j.blakeslee]

and x2 permatex products always get the big tube just to have some laying around

 

[lonesouth]

RTV, gasket, RTV bolt and go

 

[DonsBolt]

x2. The gasket will leak without RTV liberally applied to both sides, so what it the point of having the gasket?..and the gasket thickness is completely irreleveant to the large tolerances in play...it would barely account for 7 HUNDREDTHS of a degree of difference in axle to carrier alignment.

Yes I know when you use a gasket to put RTV on both sides. ;D So with a gasket, and RTV on both sides, it will be just a bit more than 1/32 of a inch.

I know there are tons of guys who install a 3rd member with no gasket, and never had any problems, and it doesn't look like mine has a gasket in it right now, or brass washers either.
Lets say the 3rd member is only 1/32 further into the housing than factory specs, and the axles are arond 30 inches long. So your prob right it is only 7 hundreds of a degree off in carrier alignment, but 30 inches away from the carrier how much more is it out of alignment at the outer bearing?? Maybe thats just enought to cause premature wear in that bearing and seal. Perhaps thats just enough to cause slight weeping of gear oil past the outer bearing and seals.

Your right it prob won't make any difference, but all the money I spent for a new 3rd member/axles I hope spending a extra 5 bucks will make sure it lives as long as possible.

 

[KyleQ]

RTV alone for me - no need for a gasket if you are using RTV. I'll only use a gasket when I find one there - my 3rd member had never been apart and there was no gasket on it.

 

[Heus33]

hijack - is the same the case for the 44?

 

[KyleQ]

hijack - is the same the case for the 44?

put RTV on housing, spread out with putty knife, slap on cover, cross torque bolts like you are torquing down a wheel. I let it sit overnight in a warm garage before pouring fluid in if possible...

 

[DonsBolt]

my 3rd member had never been apart and there was no gasket on it.

If thats true maybe I was totally wrong

So if anyone knows did the 3rd members come out of the factory with a gasket or not????

If not why all the part books, and manuals I read show a gasket. Both Ford, and Felpro show one.

Ford part number E3TZ-4035-B

hijack - is the same the case for the 44?

No problem hijacking my thread
For a 44 I don't see a need for a gasket, as it is just a cover, though I have one in mine

 

[nelson_bros]

i was always taught that for most of those kind of flat surfaces (rear pumpkin, intake, water pump, ford timing cover, etc) to put a nice fat bead of RTV and install the part snug enough to start getting squeeze out of the RTV. after about 30 minutes or so, go back and torque it to specs and there should be no problems.
i have had great luck with this method, and the only times that it has failed me has been my own fault, i.e. not cleaning the surface good enough, squeezing the RTV out, over-torqueing the part, etc.
i would think that a good bead of silicone would take up that 1/32" too.

jarrod

 

[yjzonie]

They had a gasket from the factory and Ford specs call for a gasket, but I've rebuilt numerous axles and I don't ever use the gasket. I apply a .250 bead,torque bolts to spec and wait 20 to 60 minutes and fill the diff, no leaks. Forget the gasket just adds steps that are really not needed.

 

[bigmuddy]

My favorite is the gasket maker called the "right stuff" made by permatex. Comes in a can with a nozzle to squeeze it out. I see the OEM mechanics using the same stuff.

Claims it makes reliable gaskets in under a minute.

I guess the question is: How thick is the gasket material from a tube or a can after being compressed as opposed to the paper gasket?

Ben

 

[DonsBolt]

They had a gasket from the factory and Ford specs call for a gasket, but I've rebuilt numerous axles and I don't ever use the gasket. I apply a .250 bead,torque bolts to spec and wait 20 to 60 minutes and fill the diff, no leaks. Forget the gasket just adds steps that are really not needed.

Thanks
Well I got the Gasket allready, so I guess I will use it.

Do you happen to know the torque specs for the ten bolts???

 

[bigmuddy]

KyleQ how old are you? and did you buy the bronco new? If you didn't then you really have no way to know if that rearend had been pulled or not?

Ben

 

[surfer-b]

I have always just used the gasket with no problems, I just make sure both surfaces are clean and dont have any deep scratches in them, never have had any probs. As for the torque specs I'm not sure, I always just snug them good.

 

[Old-Red]

Found this online in regards to tourqe specs for the ten bolts. Hope it helps.

31.� Ensure Ring And Pinion Mesh Smoothly Around Entire Ring Gear Surface. � Replace 3Rd Member In Axle Housing. I Gave Up On Gaskets, As They Tended To Leak For Me. I Use Only Gasketmaker Between The Housing And 3Rd Member.� Install Brass Washers. They May Have To Be Bent Back Into Shape If They Were Deformed Upon Removal. Torque 3Rd Member Nuts� In A Criss-cross Pattern To 30-40 Ft-lbs. Install Axles And Torque 4 Nuts To��50-75� Ft-lbs. Install Brake Drums, Wheels And Road Test.�

From:http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/065/article/Ford_9_Inch_RebuildGear_Setup.html

 

[reamer]

The fluid will actually seperate the gasket. It won't leak between the steel of the pumkin and the face of the gasket, or the steel of the member and the other face of the gasket, the fluid will wick through the center and "puff out" the gasket. That is were the leak is from.
It is perfectly sealed to the steel. just bleeds through the gasket.