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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I have a cheapie but I can't imagine seeing anything that would restrict flow at 850 rpm but not at 1150.

I haven't run this thing past 2,000 r p m yet
 

rcmbronc

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Two things I do see. You do not have enable closed loop checked in the software. You also appear to have quite a bit of initial timing in the ECU, I was running 12-13 degreees at low rpm.

I am not an expert just noticing difference from your tune and mine.
 

rocknhorse76

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Two things I do see. You do not have enable closed loop checked in the software. You also appear to have quite a bit of initial timing in the ECU, I was running 12-13 degreees at low rpm.

I am not an expert just noticing difference from your tune and mine.
Hey Brian, remember me saying it almost sounded like you were running in open loop and that it seems like an awful lot of timing? 🧐
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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My timing light shows 12-15 btdc.

He's trying to tune in open loop so he can reduce and add fuel in specific cylinders.

I called "the guy" who I am going to see next Wed and explained very briefly the problems "we" are having and he responded with several things the guy I"m working with isn't doing. I basically wanted to tell him that it's not running pretty much at all and that if I showed up next Wed if he'd have enough time to get it dialed in and he said- yeah.

I'll drive it around the field and take IR readings every couple minutes just to be safe. I want to make sure the trans and engine are talking to each other so when I take it to the tuner/dyno guy we can test it and run it.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Anybody that has used these sensors off of Amazonan, c they tell me what the wiring schematic is for the 3 wires?

I've had green be the ground in this harness. I've had green be the sensor output wire for this harness. So I don't want to mix them up.

I had a PM on this and we both think:

Blk is grd
Red is +5v
Green is sensor output

This is what I'm running with unless somebody can tell me other wise??? :)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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That wiring configuration for the fuel pressure reads 11psi.... 43psi on the guage. Hmmm...

Tried driving it for the first time around my property for about 1/2mi. Pulled in the shop and 3 of the middle 4 cyl were reading 750-800 pegging my infared.

Aint doing that again
 
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ba123

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My timing light shows 12-15 btdc.

He's trying to tune in open loop so he can reduce and add fuel in specific cylinders.

I called "the guy" who I am going to see next Wed and explained very briefly the problems "we" are having and he responded with several things the guy I"m working with isn't doing. I basically wanted to tell him that it's not running pretty much at all and that if I showed up next Wed if he'd have enough time to get it dialed in and he said- yeah.

I'll drive it around the field and take IR readings every couple minutes just to be safe. I want to make sure the trans and engine are talking to each other so when I take it to the tuner/dyno guy we can test it and run it.
I don't know anything about that system...like if you have an IAC for example, it's not gonna do anything in open loop. In a throttle body setup, in open loop, you need to set the idle stop to allow enough air in. In closed loop, it will adjust to allow more or less air in given the parameters you program.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I don't know anything about that system...like if you have an IAC for example, it's not gonna do anything in open loop. In a throttle body setup, in open loop, you need to set the idle stop to allow enough air in. In closed loop, it will adjust to allow more or less air in given the parameters you program.
Exactly.

I need this to be running within 7 days so it can be put thru its paces next Wed. With my knowledge level of this system I need to keep it simple, lol hence hoping the tuner I've been working with would have this driveableby now.

I think it needs to go back to closed loop so it can learn on it's own since the tuner is having so much difficulty.

The video is too dark to show much of rhe Northern Lighrs but you can sure here the creek & frogs lol
 

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Speedrdr

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Exactly.

I need this to be running within 7 days so I am checking to make sure the tps & rpm for the trans is working with the TermX so it can be put thru its packs next Wed.

He figures I'll lose at least 30% from crank to dyno. I'm figuring 33%
No idea about your tuning process/problems. Just hijacking this to say great shots of the Northern Lights/Auroras. Since we could see them in north Mississippi, did that make them SOUTHERN Lights? 🤣🤣

Randy
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Randy- how common is it for you to see them that far south?
Our little valley that once had 43 dairy farms and now doesn't have any dairy farms has turned into suburbia. :(
"Ranchettes".
Everybody has lights all over. They are super bright & just shine everywhere, including up into what used to be a dark sky. So this is the first time I've seen really good bright, northern lights here in twenty years.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's my tuners response this am:

"Brian-
I think at this point we are basically down to figuring out why the
number 1 cylinder is not really doing anything at idle. From what I can
see the EFI is doing what it should be doing and something is preventing
#1 from doing it's job. Could you maybe put a fully open spacer under
the throttle body to try to rule something out there?

I switched this file to batch fire just to see if that makes a
difference. I am really not expecting anything to change but I am out of
ideas that I can do in the software. I feel like it has to be something
physical going on. "


______________________________________
CyberAuto Family of Websites
http://www.EFISystemPro
 

Speedrdr

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Randy- how common is it for you to see them that far south?
Our little valley that once had 43 dairy farms and now doesn't have any dairy farms has turned into suburbia. :(
"Ranchettes".
Everybody has lights all over. They are super bright & just shine everywhere, including up into what used to be a dark sky. So this is the first time I've seen really good bright, northern lights here in twenty years.
To my knowledge, and I’ll be 70 in September, this is the first time I’ve known of them being visible this far south. It may just be that it’s not been publicized as much. The only way we knew about it was people in the area posting on FaceCrack. Well, that and seeing the alert on WeatherBug about the geo-magnetic event in Gervais OR where our son is. Fairly excited to have seen them.

Randy
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I am trying the online Holley Tech forum again. They weren't exactly gung-ho helping me with 2 wiring questions a few weeks back. I sent them a log, a tune, a pic of my wiring diagram to the coils to see if they can figure out if this is timing or what???
 

ba123

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1 cylinder of 8 not running is not gonna cause your problems.
Anybody that has used these sensors off of Amazonan, c they tell me what the wiring schematic is for the 3 wires?

I've had green be the ground in this harness. I've had green be the sensor output wire for this harness. So I don't want to mix them up.

I had a PM on this and we both think:

Blk is grd
Red is +5v
Green is sensor output

This is what I'm running with unless somebody can tell me other wise??? :)
I'd bet money on that being correct.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Thanks on the wiring confirmation- I agree.

I will try to figure out why the readout is waaaay off.

I don't care much about #1 either but the tuner dude seems fixated on it.

I want to be able to run for 5 min and not be pegging infared guages! Not just one, but three different ones.
 

ba123

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I didn't see an answer about a throttle stop screw. You do have one, right? Have you tried doing anything with it? If you're on open loop, that throttle stop screw is key.

But before doing that, a couple questions… it idles at 800 RPM but just #1 isn't running?

I know you've written this stuff but it's all over the place and I know you've made changes. And now the AFR if lean and it was rich? I think you need to make it rich again and go from there. You don't even know its accurate without your tune being right. Your wife band will read unburned dual as super rich. You gotta know how much fuel makes it happy above idle before you know how much fuel it wants at idle.

Ignore all the readings and just use your man sense to make it happy. Add fuel and see how it reacts. Add air and see. Change timing and see…
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I didn't see an answer about a throttle stop screw. You do have one, right? Have you tried doing anything with it? If you're on open loop, that throttle stop screw is key.
Yup, throttle stop screw. Have bumped it out enough to idle at 800, maybe I should go 900 or more till it will at least idle decent b4 it's warmed up. Reset the tps each time.



But before doing that, a couple questions… it idles at 800 RPM but just #1 isn't running?

I know you've written this stuff but it's all over the place and I know you've made changes. And now the AFR if lean and it was rich?
Agreed, problem with Term X is it has ONE O2 sensor.
Term X O2 sensor is on DS, cyl 5-8.
My old wide band is on the PS bank, cyl 1-4.

I feel it needs a bunch of fuel to drop #2 & #3 down around 600deg or lower and also for #7 wich like #2&3 is super hot.

Rest are fair

think you need to make it rich again and go from there. You don't even know its accurate without your tune being right. Your wife band will read unburned dual as super rich. You gotta know how much fuel makes it happy above idle before you know how much fuel it wants at idle.

Ignore all the readings and just use your man sense to make it happy. Add fuel and see how it reacts. Add air and see. Change timing and
Agree, I'm such a novice but starting to learn.


I just removed the TB again to dbl check the gasket sealing btw it & the intake since 3 out of 4 hot cylinders are the shortest runners directly under the TB are excessively hot ones.
 
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ba123

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Yup, throttle stop screw. Have bumped it out enough to idle at 800, maybe I should go 900 or more till it will at least idle decent b4 it's warmed up. Reset the tps each time.




Agreed, problem with Term X is it has ONE O2 sensor.
Term X O2 sensor is on DS, cyl 5-8.
My old wide band is PS, cyl 1-4.

I feel it needs a bunch of fuel to drop #2 & #3 down around 600deg or lower and also for #7 wich like #2&3 is super hot.

Rest are fair


Agree, I'm such a novice but starting to learn.


I just removed the TB again to dbl check the gasket sealing btw it & the intake since it's 3 out of 4 of the middle cyl that are excessively hot.
It's fine.
I don't believe you need more than 1 wideband. I have the choice of 1 or 2 and I run 1. You could always get another sensor and just swap the connector or get a second controller as well and run one to a gauge and compare the two but I think you're just gonna drive yourself crazy trying to understand the differences. Should be close enough.

As far as cylinder temp, you sure your timing is good? you also just might need to drive it a little to work everything out. Pretty sure my cylinder temps were a bit whacked at first and I spent too much time overthinking it. Although I also did have a bad ecu at first so don't remember my timeline right now.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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What would happen if you swapped the O2 sensor locations?
I've thought of that too TS. If I didn't have any hot cyl on the TermX side I would do that but I have one there also.

I know If you are pouring so much gas to the injectors, and your A. F. R is much richer that it will lean out the injectors to compensate for that a d that's what the tuner thought also.

I agree that Cylinders, number two and three seem like they need a ton of fuel along with #7 that is almost the same temp.


He sent me a tune this morning. And I am going to try that in about one hour when I get back from picking up brand new plugs and an air filter that actually fits
 
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