351 with 2000 explorer efi will run for 1 second

[Timmy390]

How did you plug the hole in the rear of the intake?

Redneck style....Left the PCV grommet and valve in place. just a small length of PCV hose and capped the hose with a plug. It's so hidden no one could ever see it's there,

Tim

 

[rjrobin2002]

So, I have had something similar happen on two different explorers. One on the six cylinder and one of the eight.
Both times, mechanics couldn't find what the issue was as it would stay running and then once I moved it to there shop by low boy it started working again. Fought this for a very long time. Eventually, I spent the small amount of money and bought a new CPS and bam never had the issue again..

I would bet its the CPS

My PCV is ALL jacked up from me ditching the original intake tubes and valve covers for shinny aluminum ones, building something over 5 years , and forgetting a pcv hose needed to go from one of the valve covers to the intake tube. Gonna work this out and check back

I tend to screw things like this up on my own builds.

 

[bigmuddy]

My PCV is ALL jacked up from me ditching the original intake tubes and valve covers for shinny aluminum ones, building something over 5 years , and forgetting a pcv hose needed to go from one of the valve covers to the intake tube. Gonna work this out and check back

I tend to screw things like this up on my own builds.

Oh I get it. I am asking questions as i dumped my 5.0 probably 5 year ago then had a buddy said he would paint it and it got tore down. Sat for a long time and I just got around to putting the EFI 351w in today. The 5.0 PVC was a pain in the ass, so good to see these questions popping up now! Been too long and too busy, I have forgot more than I knew

 

[EFI Guy]

Here ya go. Since it wasn't too hot in the tin can today I made a little video. There is a little trick towards the end for valve covers that don't have a fresh air nipple.

 

[rjrobin2002]

That was great, I am missing the fresh air side.

I assume I need the hose for fresh to be the same size as the pcv valve size for flow calculation matching.

 

[EFI Guy]

The hoses are the same size. I suspect that the port in the throttle body and the plastic elbow on the later Explorers have a slightly smaller orifice to maintain a small amount of vacuum in the crankcase. The most important thing is that the airflow is measured by the MAF.

 

[rjrobin2002]

I am adding a 5/8 barb to my passengers valve cover cap and to my intake tube off the back.

It shouldn't be visible.

 

[dmoses42]

Here ya go. Since it wasn't too hot in the tin can today I made a little video. There is a little trick towards the end for valve covers that don't have a fresh air nipple.

So this is off-topic a little... I have those exact valve covers I want to use with my Explorer EFI build. Do you use the gutted pcv on one side and the working pcv on the other? Or if I'm gathering correctly, the Explorer intake has a sort of "built in" pcv in the intake that you use, and a oil fill cap with no vent?

 

[DirtDonk]

I am adding a 5/8 barb to my passengers valve cover cap and to my intake tube off the back.

The PCV valve uses a 3/8 hose. Probably don’t need a 5/8 return. Unless you just want it that is.

 

[DirtDonk]

Do you use the gutted pcv on one side and the working pcv on the other?

If you have the same valve covers with the oil filler tubes on both sides, you don’t need a gutted PCV to fit into an open hole.
Simply use a hose barb.
If you have a standard valve cover with just a hole, and perhaps a rubber grommet, you would either custom make something, or that’s where you would use the gutted PCV valve acting as a simple 90° elbow.
They sell plastic 45° elbows, but they are of the much larger size. Probably the 5/8 inch that Robin was talking about.

Or if I'm gathering correctly, the Explorer intake has a sort of "built in" pcv in the intake that you use, and a oil fill cap with no vent?

Correct on the PCV valve port in the back of the lower intake manifold on the explorer.
The valve itself goes there and is connected to full manifold vacuum from the upper plenum.
As described previously.
The oil fill cap would be the most convenient place to put your clean air return. As shown in the picture just before this, add a port to the fill cap with a 3/8 hose barb and connect it to the intake tract ahead of the throttlebody and behind the MAF.

 

[73azbronco]

also make sure to run your hand under the upper intake, there are about 4 maybe 6 vacuum connections under there as I recall.

 

[surfer-b]

It's original regulator is in the tank and the pump keeps 65psi from the tank forward.

I have an external pump with a 59psi regulator after the pump, but am only getting 45psi at the rail.

I am gonna redo my fuel lines and have an adjustable regulator on the firewall and will be able to get my pressure up to 65psi and see if it will idle and run with the MAF plugged in.

I still think the fuel pressure may not be the issue, seems like it should idle with 45psi.

I havnt read all this but why are you running to 2 fuel pumps and regulators?

How does the original Ford setup deal with “returnless“ pressure control? Does the computer control it, or is there a regulator in the tank/pump module?
If it’s in the tank, is it that hard to set up?
What tank are you running?

it's just a diaphragm and spring set up right after the pump, anything over 65 psi its bypasses back into the tank, no computer control, its no different than the one on the fuel rail on a return system

 

[surfer-b]

you may have already done this but have you checked your grounds, bad grounds will cause a Fi system to do some crazy stuff

 

[rjrobin2002]

I havnt read all this but why are you running to 2 fuel pumps and regulators?

it's just a diaphragm and spring set up right after the pump, anything over 65 psi its bypasses back into the tank, no computer control, its no different than the one on the fuel rail on a return system

I'm not running 2 pumps, just a frame mounted external e2000 and a 59psi return type regulator right after the pump by the rear axle.

I am only getting 45psi though and am going to move the regulator closer to the fuel rail, whick should give me my 59 psi.

 

[rjrobin2002]

you may have already done this but have you checked your grounds, bad grounds will cause a Fi system to do some crazy stuff

I added about 3 extra eliminating that being a problem.

EFIGUY noticed I had my PCV system all jacked up. I am in the process of getting that lined out.

 

[bigmuddy]

I added about 3 extra eliminating that being a problem.

EFIGUY noticed I had my PCV system all jacked up. I am in the process of getting that lined out.

As an aside, I fought an air leak issue for a very long time on an EFI build a long time ago. Do not plug your unused vacuum lines with the cheap rubber vacuum caps. I capped everything that I wasn't going to use and then when I went to start the truck it fired right up. However, whenever I went to drive it, it would stumble and just run like general crap. The kicker was that all of the caps looked good to the visual eye when installed, however if you removed them and squeezed them they looked a cracked egg! To much air bypassing the MAF and the engine under load and the ECM obviously didn't know it was there and didn't have any way to meter it I suppose. Ended up replacing them with the vinyl caps and never had an issue. Some of these rubber caps hadn't been on the engine for more than a month either. I chalk it up to Chineesum rubber...

 

[rjrobin2002]

That's basically what I have going on cause I didn't add a hose from a valve cover to a barb between the MAF and throttle body according to EFI GUY.

It makes the engine run like it has a giant vacuum leak when you only have the PCV hooked from lower to upper intake like I did.

 

[Timmy390]

As an aside, I fought an air leak issue for a very long time on an EFI build a long time ago. Do not plug your unused vacuum lines with the cheap rubber vacuum caps. I capped everything that I wasn't going to use and then when I went to start the truck it fired right up. However, whenever I went to drive it, it would stumble and just run like general crap. The kicker was that all of the caps looked good to the visual eye when installed, however if you removed them and squeezed them they looked a cracked egg! To much air bypassing the MAF and the engine under load and the ECM obviously didn't know it was there and didn't have any way to meter it I suppose. Ended up replacing them with the vinyl caps and never had an issue. Some of these rubber caps hadn't been on the engine for more than a month either. I chalk it up to Chineesum rubber...

YUP.....I run vinyl vacuum caps on everything because the rubber cracks.......My vacuum leak was internal to the brake booster. Took forever to track it down.

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

I was lucky. Before the engine had ever been run, I actually got three months out of my vacuum caps! :-(

 

[dmoses42]

If you have the same valve covers with the oil filler tubes on both sides, you don’t need a gutted PCV to fit into an open hole.
Simply use a hose barb.
If you have a standard valve cover with just a hole, and perhaps a rubber grommet, you would either custom make something, or that’s where you would use the gutted PCV valve acting as a simple 90° elbow.
They sell plastic 45° elbows, but they are of the much larger size. Probably the 5/8 inch that Robin was talking about.

Correct on the PCV valve port in the back of the lower intake manifold on the explorer.
The valve itself goes there and is connected to full manifold vacuum from the upper plenum.
As described previously.
The oil fill cap would be the most convenient place to put your clean air return. As shown in the picture just before this, add a port to the fill cap with a 3/8 hose barb and connect it to the intake tract ahead of the throttlebody and behind the MAF.

OK Paul... I have a lot of respect for you and your knowledge, but maybe I'm just stupid or hard headed. You don't have to answer this, or you can, or somebody else. Running the 83-85 "Powered By Ford" valve covers, both having openings, how exactly do you make these work with the Explorer EFI? Everybody always talks about roller rockers, I don't need them. I'm looking for about 300hp. How do I make these valve covers work with Explorer EFI?