Centech wiring

[Coldbear]

Has anyone installed the Centech harness for an early Bronco? Have you any suggestions or pictures that might help my situation? Any verbal or pictorial hints will help. Thank you in advance.

 

[langester]

I like the Centech harness, I installed one about a year ago. The instructions are a little strange to me, there are 3 different places to look to figure some things out. Once you understand how the papers are laid out it gets easier. I would suggest pulling the dash out to wire it. It makes things a lot easier. If you don't already have them I would suggest getting the tools to put the weather pack connectors together as well. I will look and see if I have any pictures, been a couple days since I did it.

Good luck with it!

 

[omureebe]

I like the Centech harness, I installed one about a year ago. The instructions are a little strange to me, there are 3 different places to look to figure some things out. Once you understand how the papers are laid out it gets easier. I would suggest pulling the dash out to wire it. It makes things a lot easier. If you don't already have them I would suggest getting the tools to put the weather pack connectors together as well. I will look and see if I have any pictures, been a couple days since I did it.

Good luck with it!

I didn’t take pics either but agree with these comments. Totally. Reading three documents back and forth.... maybe called their tech line 3x... but I bet if I had to do it again it would take 1/3 as long. Keep at it and you’ll get it done. Also agree pull the dash and do that separately.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[chuckyb]

I installed a Centech and would recommend it. I resisted the idea of replacing the OEM wiring but it is a great upgrade and worked perfectly for my purposes. Meaning, safety and reliability with ability to handle a few upgrades like 3G alternator, fog lights and AC.

Here are some random pictures of the wiring and getting underway and the final outcome under the hood. For a more OEM / cleaner look, I took most of the ribbed plastic conduit off of the harnesses and resealed them myself using a combination of Painless wraps and Tessa tape. I also cut off the heavy rubber grommets that pass through the firewall and used some that are more likely to stay in place.

I agree that some of the instructions are a little puzzling, but it mostly makes sense. I did call a couple of times and Jim at Centech was always super helpful and knowledgeable. Make sure you have a good soldering set-up. It’s a lot of work but I tried to just focus on one wire at a time.

 

[904Bronco]

A good crimping tool
A weatherpack crimping tool
A soldering gun or iron
Maybe some shrink tube of various sizes, I use Harbor freight marine grade(lined) multi pack.
Tessa tape, engine and interior (Amazon)

Yes the directions are weak, but If I ever had an issue, Tech help is there. Remember East Coast time. I done enough harness replacements, that I rarely look at them anymore. And you will be an expert when you are done!

You can do this...

 

[billh1289]

Agree with what has already been said. Keep your old harness and try to take it out in as few pieces as possible. I referred to the old harness a few times during install.

 

[xltboy]

Take the dash out, remove all of the old wiring and then put the new harness onto the dash.once all done with the back of the dash and everything is routed and tied off put the dash back in and feed the wires through the firewall. Add a few terminals on the back of the dash for switched power, lighted power and grounds. i found i needed extras of each of these for tach, power in the center console, etc. Replace the cigarette lighter with a USB charger unless you are a smoker while you are at it. while i was at it i went to a single wire alternator and a GM style hei so i didn't have to deal with the voltage regulator, coil, etc.
Xltboy

 

[aklb43]

Are you guys having to change the ammeter in the gauge cluster to a voltmeter? It sounds like you have the option to switch it out with an expensive aftermarket voltmeter gauge that doesnt match the stock styling very well or hack together your own voltmeter.

 

[Yooper74]

I recently did a AAW. I'm assuming its similar. one thought not mentioned above is If you are able to get a bunch of extra terminals for all of the connectors. That way if you screw up a few of the crimps you'll be good to go.

 

[904Bronco]

Are you guys having to change the ammeter in the gauge cluster to a voltmeter? It sounds like you have the option to switch it out with an expensive aftermarket voltmeter gauge that doesnt match the stock styling very well or hack together your own voltmeter.

Centech supports the factory Alt and separate voltage reg. AAW does not, although I have made a factory Alt/reg work with AAW harness, just that you lose the AMP gauge.

Aftermarket WH's Volts gauge is a simple bolt in, and looks like it belongs there.

 

[omureebe]

Are you guys having to change the ammeter in the gauge cluster to a voltmeter? It sounds like you have the option to switch it out with an expensive aftermarket voltmeter gauge that doesnt match the stock styling very well or hack together your own voltmeter.

I've used Rocketman (https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all) for voltmeters - both my Bronco and Cougar. He converts what you have and looks perfect, and with warrantee.

 

[aklb43]

I've used Rocketman (https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all) for voltmeters - both my Bronco and Cougar. He converts what you have and looks perfect, and with warrantee.

I just sent him an email. Thanks!

 

[aklb43]

Centech supports the factory Alt and separate voltage reg. AAW does not, although I have made a factory Alt/reg work with AAW harness, just that you lose the AMP gauge.

Aftermarket WH's Volts gauge is a simple bolt in, and looks like it belongs there.

Some of the reviews disagree.

 

[kdaug5]

I installed a Centech and would recommend it. I resisted the idea of replacing the OEM wiring but it is a great upgrade and worked perfectly for my purposes. Meaning, safety and reliability with ability to handle a few upgrades like 3G alternator, fog lights and AC.

Here are some random pictures of the wiring and getting underway and the final outcome under the hood. For a more OEM / cleaner look, I took most of the ribbed plastic conduit off of the harnesses and resealed them myself using a combination of Painless wraps and Tessa tape. I also cut off the heavy rubber grommets that pass through the firewall and used some that are more likely to stay in place.

I agree that some of the instructions are a little puzzling, but it mostly makes sense. I did call a couple of times and Jim at Centech was always super helpful and knowledgeable. Make sure you have a good soldering set-up. It’s a lot of work but I tried to just focus on one wire at a time.

Your pics are helpful. I am getting back to a project that stopped over 15 years ago. My Centech is also from that era. Not sure if I have all connections and instructions. I have been printing info and pics like yours for help, so thank you.
I am trying to get the engine to turn and have a dumb question. In one pic you show the 3 pin connector blue, violet, and white. I see the white, I term goes to starter solenoid. Now violet and blue. Do I need to get a ballast resistor to run this through the coil? I have a stock 302 points dist.
Any help would be great. I am slowly removing electrical tape to figure this harness out.

 

[jeffncs]

Your pics are helpful. I am getting back to a project that stopped over 15 years ago. My Centech is also from that era. Not sure if I have all connections and instructions. I have been printing info and pics like yours for help, so thank you.
I am trying to get the engine to turn and have a dumb question. In one pic you show the 3 pin connector blue, violet, and white. I see the white, I term goes to starter solenoid. Now violet and blue. Do I need to get a ballast resistor to run this through the coil? I have a stock 302 points dist.
Any help would be great. I am slowly removing electrical tape to figure this harness out.

Call Centech for tech support if needed. They’re a mom and pop operation based in Perkiomenville, PA. 610-754-0720

Good people!

 

[kdaug5]

Call Centech for tech support if needed. They’re a mom and pop operation based in Perkiomenville, PA. 610-754-0720

Good people!

Ok thank you

 

[Jdgephar]

Your pics are helpful. I am getting back to a project that stopped over 15 years ago. My Centech is also from that era. Not sure if I have all connections and instructions. I have been printing info and pics like yours for help, so thank you.
I am trying to get the engine to turn and have a dumb question. In one pic you show the 3 pin connector blue, violet, and white. I see the white, I term goes to starter solenoid. Now violet and blue. Do I need to get a ballast resistor to run this through the coil? I have a stock 302 points dist.
Any help would be great. I am slowly removing electrical tape to figure this harness out.

Ballast resistor is needed with the stock coil and stock distributor. Centech included the resistor in my kit, so I assume one would have been in yours.

 

[DirtDonk]

I am trying to get the engine to turn and have a dumb question. In one pic you show the 3 pin connector blue, violet, and white. I see the white, I term goes to starter solenoid. Now violet and blue.

This is kind of a separate process, because it’s at the business end of the ignition coil.
The purple goes to the S terminal and is what energizes the starter relay/solenoid.
I would have to review the Instructions to review how the white and blue interact. I have the basics in my memory, but it’s been a while and I don’t want to mislead.

Do I need to get a ballast resistor to run this through the coil? I have a stock 302 points dist.

What Jd said.
With standard ignition components, you need standard ignition dropped voltage.
Since none of the harnesses include a resistor wire, such as the factory used, you need to utilize the included baluster resistors.

Be careful where you mount them however, as the resistor coil buried at the back of the ceramic base gets extremely hot and will melt any plastic that it’s mounted to, and often can burn the paint on the metal it’s mounted to as well.
I think for the most part people have had pretty good luck, even just directly mounting them to the body. Usually the firewall. But I’ve seen plenty of them over the years gets so hot that they blistered the paint.
So I usually recommend using standoffs. Maybe just as simple as a couple of washers underneath to lift the resistor off of the painted surface, creating a little air gap.

 

[kdaug5]

Thanks for the replies. I purchased a ballast resistor through Napa and wired it up. I still can’t get the engine to do anything.

I have the solenoid connected with red/start wire ok battery side, neg side going to starter. Then I have the purple to the S and the white to the I. I have power to the starter solenoid but no cranking. I’m missing something.

I’m just diving into this Bronco that has been in my garage over 15 years. Body is off and a lot of work was done. Now that the kids are older I want to get this on the road. I’m going to need some help to get this started and the motivation will following. Thank you for the help

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks for the replies. I purchased a ballast resistor through Napa and wired it up. I still can’t get the engine to do anything.

OK, so the starter is not cranking. That really doesn’t have anything to do with the ignition coil or ballast resistor. Those are just for getting the ignition system working properly.
The lack of cranking is either something wrong with the ignition switch, the purple wire, the starter relay (solenoid), or starter, or starter cables.
So let’s do some basic testing.

I have the solenoid connected with red/start wire ok battery side, neg side going to starter.

Let’s make sure what we’ve got going on here.
The positive side battery cable should go to one of the large studs on the starter relay.
Sounds like you’ve got that, but just making sure.
The other large stud has a cable that goes down to the starter. No matter what color the cable is, this is not a negative. This is a positive and gets power to the starter.
But we also need to know what type of starter you have. Is it a standard Broncos starter, or more modern starter with its own solenoid on it?

Then I have the purple to the S and the white to the I.

Sounds good, but we need to make sure there is power to the purple/violet wire when the key is in the start position. We can test that a little later.

I have power to the starter solenoid but no cranking. I’m missing something.

So that confirms that you have the battery cable connected. Do you also have the large red Centech wire connected to the same large terminal as the battery cable?
And it should have their 60 amp fuse in the red wire?
Think back then, and maybe still, they used a maxi-fuse and holder with a plastic cover.
Is that what you have?

Let’s test the starter circuit first.
With the vehicle in neutral or park, and the brake applied, (and your nerves intact and ready for surprises) jumper the starter relay to see if the starter cranks.
Be ready to be surprised just in case it actually does crank.
To jumper the relay, take a small bit of wire that you might have lying around, remove the purple wire from the S terminal, and touch your jumper wire between the battery positive side and the small S terminal.
Just doing so I should give you a major click, and the starter should crank.
If it doesn’t, we have more testing to do.
Try that and let us know what you got.