Clutch Pedal and Linkage Discussion

[MarsChariot]

Here are a couple of things that I have not seen discussed on here before, the clutch linkage, specifically differences if any. Over the past several decades one thing that has always irritated me is how “soft” it is despite using OEM return springs. It hardly takes any pressure to operate. Meanwhile I have 1500 cc vintage Fiat that makes my left leg muscles shake with the pressure needed to operate it. The Bronco pedal meanwhile depresses with the minimal force, so it has always felt nice but kind of wimpy. Are all clutch linkages (V8 vs 6 cylinder) the same? Not only the pedal lever ratio, but the equalizer bar as well?

The second question I have is the pedal pivots. Obviously the bushings can be replaced and I have done this several times. But what about the pivot rod that the clutch and brake pedals hang on? I have never seen a replacement for these, which is important since they do wear to the extent that even new bushings fail to tighten up the side to side wobble of the peddles. I once tried to machine a replacement but the tolerances are pretty small for getting it just right. Anyway a replacement part would be a better way to go for me at least.

 

[DirtDonk]

There were slight variations in the Z-bar and release fork designs over the years. Mostly the changes were between '66 and all the rest however. Not much variation after that at least in the equalizer/Z-bar arrangement.
Not aware of any ratio changes, but never paid much attention to it either.

Do you have a replacement clutch using a diaphragm style pressure plate? If so, that's at least a part of your issue.
The original "Long" style with three fingers (different from the Borg & Beck three finger) was slightly more firm than most diaphragm styles I've ever used. Then if you replace your Long clutch with a heavy duty version from McLeod or one of the other companies, the pedal feel is even firmer.
I loved my McLeod clutch, for just the reasons you mention. Great action and a nice firm feel. Back then my leg was much stronger however, and stronger still for the clutch. Now that I'm a wimpy city-boy I'd probably appreciate the lighter pedal.

So do you know what type of cover/pressure plate is in there now?

Paul

 

[Steiny]

Adjustable clutch rod from JB Fabrication. Just installed one and made the clutch pedal 100% better. Smoother and no wobble. Could have made one myself but was nice having one show up in the mail with all the correct bushings and hardware.

 

[Timmy390]

Do you have a replacement clutch using a diaphragm style pressure plate? If so, that's at least a part of your issue.
The original "Long" style with three fingers (different from the Borg & Beck three finger) was slightly more firm than most diaphragm styles I've ever used. Then if you replace your Long clutch with a heavy duty version from McLeod or one of the other companies, the pedal feel is even firmer.
I loved my McLeod clutch, for just the reasons you mention. Great action and a nice firm feel. Back then my leg was much stronger however, and stronger still for the clutch. Now that I'm a wimpy city-boy I'd probably appreciate the lighter pedal.

So do you know what type of cover/pressure plate is in there now?

Paul

Yup, the diaphragm version is much easier on the leg. I used a Luk and it was very noticeable. Much smoother release. Then once I replaced all the bad bushings and parts in the linkage it was even better.

Tim

 

[MarsChariot]

This is all good information, but this problem has been around for a long time. Evene before I did the NV 3550 conversion and switched to a Centerforce diaphragm style clutch the pedal was awfully easy compared to any other clutch I had experienced. The Centerforce made the pedal feel even easier, but not by a lot. So the wimpy clutch pedal feel will forever remain a mystery I guess. I just find it hard to believe that no one else has ever replaced that darn pedal pivot rod. New pedal bushings will not take up the slack.

But what won't remain a mystery is the worn pedal pivot shaft. Clearly the diameter is just slightly worn because if I insert a layer of aluminum foil it is tight. But of course that is not a solution, it just shows what little amount of wear it takes to make the pivot sloppy. I can move the clutch pedal to the left and right a full 1/4 inch. THis contributes a lot to the sloppy pedal feel. Been that way now for several decades.

 

[DirtDonk]

Even before I did the NV 3550 conversion and switched to a Centerforce diaphragm style clutch the pedal was awfully easy compared to any other clutch I had experienced. The Centerforce made the pedal feel even easier, but not by a lot. So the wimpy clutch pedal feel will forever remain a mystery I guess.

I wonder if your original clutch was either a soft rebuild, or simply a worn out original?
What kind of clutches are you normally used to? Cars or trucks? If trucks, maybe it’s just that the bronco is lighter.
I don’t think so, but it’s possible. I never thought my original was overly stiff. Was not wimpy, but was not stiff.

I just find it hard to believe that no one else has ever replaced that darn pedal pivot rod. New pedal bushings will not take up the slack.

Lots of us have replaced the rod that goes from the pedal arm through the floor to the cantilever set up. Is that what you’re referring to?
I thought we were talking about what are your clutch actually been too late, but a more solid rod should not change that.

My original one broke so I made a new one because the dealer was out of them.
Now there are nice ones available from most of us vendors

I can move the clutch pedal to the left and right a full 1/4 inch. THis contributes a lot to the sloppy pedal feel.

If you’re talking about side to side slot, can’t you just add some washers or plastic spacers to take up the slack?

 

[MarsChariot]

dirtdonk, thanks but I have an adjustable clutch rod, but that was not the issue in this case. Just an upgrade. What I am talking about is the pedal shaft. I tried to make one years ago, but it is a very specific diameter that is hard to replicate. As to the washers to eliminate the side to side slop, tried that too years ago. But it too is difficult to get just right. Most washers are (a) too thick, and (b) you have to drill out the hole just right to fit over the shaft. It's the darn shaft that is worn and nobody seems to have ever made new ones available. None of this solves the wimpy pedal in any case. That is a second issue that is just me I guess. All I am saying is that little cars like a Fiat have stiffer return springs on the pedal that the Bronco.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sorry, yeah I knew you were talking about the shaft in the discussion, but I thought you were also talking about the pedal rod to Z-bar in addition to that.

 

[MarsChariot]

Yes, I guess I was asking two separate questions. The wimpy pedal : Z-bar and the pedal and any differences year to year and V8 vs 6 cylinder. And the wobbly pedal: 40 year question about the pivot shaft.