Dana 44 Trac Lok 73548X

[dmoses42]

Jeff's lists this as correct for a '72 Dana 44 front axle. All my other searching only shows it for 78-79 Broncos / F150s. Anybody have a solid confirm or deny on using this in an early Bronco front diff? Obviously Jeff's is closed until Monday. I realize its a 4-series diff, not sure if the high pinion / reverse rotation deal affects usage. I have a '72 Dana 44 with factory Trac Lok (per the numbers on the axle tube) that has some binding when turning the yolk. This is with the axle ends straight, so the binding isn't from that. Mostly moves smoothly, then gets rough. It didn't have a vent tube screwed into the housing when I got it, so it had some water in it. I have not disassembled it yet. I was looking to rebuild the Trac-Lok, but the only kit I could find was like $650, and this diff at Jeff's is $250 for the whole thing.

 

[DirtDonk]

If the binding happens at the same position in the rotation, depending upon your current ratio, perhaps it’s just rust on the gears themselves.
Which have nothing to do with the differential being limited slip or open.
Personally, as much as I like to have parts waiting and ready when I’m working on something, I would open the thing up and check the condition of various things.
Or have you already done that?

 

[DirtDonk]

And while I could be wrong, I don’t think that standard cut gears or reverse cut gears care which differential carrier assembly they are riding on.
I believe they use the same unit in low pinion and high pinion differential housings.

 

[jamesroney]

And while I could be wrong, I don’t think that standard cut gears or reverse cut gears care which differential carrier assembly they are riding on.
I believe they use the same unit in low pinion and high pinion differential housings.

You could be wrong, but for an Early Bronco…you are not.
But it’s a moot point. A Trac-Lok has no business in a Bronco. It’s weaker than an open carrier, and there are just too many superior options available.
I throw them away every chance I get.

 

[67sport]

/\/\ What he says.... Install a truetrac.

 

[DirtDonk]

I still say find out what’s wrong with the current set up.
Spending $700-$1000 is not always the answer to an oil change, new bearings, or just a more thorough inspection.
If he’s already got a perfectly good limited slip and might not ever put it to use, then what’s the point of buying a better one?
Now I could be wrong, and the OP is an avid off roader. But maybe we should ask more questions.
Such as what is the vehicle going to be used for in the future. And how much money is available to throw at stuff.

 

[67sport]

I still say find out what’s wrong with the current set up.
Spending $700-$1000 is not always the answer to an oil change, new bearings, or just a more thorough inspection.
If he’s already got a perfectly good limited slip and might not ever put it to use, then what’s the point of buying a better one?
Now I could be wrong, and the OP is an avid off roader. But maybe we should ask more questions.
Such as what is the vehicle going to be used for in the future. And how much money is available to throw at stuff.

Fair points Paul. I am more taking it from the point that IF buying new there may be other choices out there.

 

[dmoses42]

I haven't opened it up yet. It probably is just rust on the gears, but its got 3.50ish gears in it but when I rebuild it I'm going to 4.11 or 4.56 which, if I'm not mistaken, takes a different carrier. The ID on the axle is 603218-4 which, once again if I'm not mistaken, is a factory Trac-Lok. I don't plan to do any hard wheeling with it, so I was going to keep it close to stock, in that respect. I'd love to put a Truetrac in it, but the funds aren't there for that right now.

 

[jamesroney]

. Did they have 4.56 as well?

You don’t need to change your carrier if you run the TJ gearset. So you can keep your existing Trac-Lok, and run Rubicon gears. It is one factory application that does not follow the “carrier change” rule.

Unfortunately, it only comes in factory 4.10, but there are aftermarket 4.56 available for the TJ Rubicon that will also allow you to keep your carrier.

I apologize for the insensitive post, and I deleted it. If you know me, then you know that It’s not personal. I’m on the road, and typing on an iPhone in my car to try to save you $350.

 

[.94 OR]

I've got one in my '71 D44 front axle and that was never the weak link with my 19 year old size 16 foot buried into the throttle.

 

[dmoses42]

You don’t need to change your carrier if you run the TJ gearset. So you can keep your existing Trac-Lok, and run Rubicon gears. It is one factory application that does not follow the “carrier change” rule.

Unfortunately, it only comes in factory 4.10, but there are aftermarket 4.56 available for the TJ Rubicon that will also allow you to keep your carrier.

I apologize for the insensitive post, and I deleted it. If you know me, then you know that It’s not personal. I’m on the road, and typing on an iPhone in my car to try to save you $350.

That post just caught me wrong at a bad time last night. I should have PM'd you instead of making the post I made, which I took down last night as well, and I apologize for the post I made. I'm pretty sure everyone on here appreciates the vast knowledge you share on here. I always seek out your posts for direction. Once I crack my diff open to look at it, if the Trac-Lok is still good, I'll start looking for some 03-06 TJ Rubicon gears as you suggested. Thanks, James.

Don

 

[dmoses42]

So here are some pics of the innards. Some of the teeth on the gears in the Trac Lok have places that are rusted off. I really anticipated that when I bought it with no vent tube in it and the water it had in it. So now I'll be looking for for something in the 4 series range, but after all the debate and some more research on my part, I'm going to pass on a new Trac Lok. Anybody using the Power Lock that Tom's is offering? Or Nitro's helical gear diff?