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Distributor gear type

CopperBronco

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Joined
Aug 13, 2021
Messages
379
Reading some of the threads on this, just double checking how to tell what type of distributor and coil to order…. My 66ish Bronco has a 1978 Lincoln Continental 302 V8 in it, made in Dearborn, MI, Cast #- D8vl -6015-Asa z. But it’s also been remanufactured some time ago and has a sticker on it for Four Star Motors - Hutchinson, Kansas. Which is apparently no longer in business, and engine was redone two previous owners ago. With all that said I have an old rusty points style distributor that failed me today and am looking to upgrade. I need the following:

What type of system would you choose and why? DuraSpark, Pertronix, or MSD?

How do I know I’m getting right size and correct metal distributor gear? Do I have to pull old distributor and examine the gear? And how do I tell if it’s iron, steel, etc…

Know idea what type of tappet or camshaft I have… new to Broncos and know very little about distributors and ignition coils.

Also bear in mind I do have plans to upgrade Bronco to a painless wiring harness hopefully sometime this year 🤞.

Chime in and LMK how to diagnose correct parts needed. Looking for plug and play as much as possible.
 
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CopperBronco

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Aug 13, 2021
Messages
379
Here are photos of existing distributor…
 

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DirtDonk

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47,721
The for-sure way to tell is, as you suspected, is to pull it. But the fact that it’s a point style distributor it’s probably a 99% chance it’s a cast gear and flat tappet too.
But just what failed that makes you need a new one?
 

DirtDonk

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It’s already been converted to a Pertronix igniter.
Is the module what failed do you think?
 
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CopperBronco

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Joined
Aug 13, 2021
Messages
379
It’s already been converted to a Pertronix igniter.
Is the module what failed do you think?
It died on me in the parking lot at a store yesterday, chased the ignition with my multimeter… I think it was just carbon build up on the distributor cap contact point, will see if it continues to give me trouble, I was able to clean up distributor cap/contact area with sand paper and get it to start. But it’s old points style from the looks of it, right? Or is that an electronic Pertronix conversion in there? I’m a dummy about this, researching today… Iwas thinking about electronic ignition… Just for added reliability. I’m new to distributors BTW, never looked inside of one until yesterday.

As for my engine, PO said he was “advised” it had a roller cam in it, but I haven’t sorted out how to tell without removing intake manifold, ideally there’s a way to tell without.

I’m also told cast distributor gears have cast markings/indents on them like outside of engine block. Whereas steel ones are smooth, and you can file them down a bit to try and tell as well.
 

DirtDonk

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No points. It's an old points-style distributor of course, but it has already been converted. That "module" in the picture is the replacement electronic unit from Pertronix that gets rid of the points plate completely. But allows you to put it back to original in just a few minutes if needed (and if the old stuff was kept handy).
That's one of the claims-to-fame of the Ignitor in fact. Change out to a better trigger system, and change back quickly if the Ignitor ever gives out.
Which they can do of course, just like any other electronic device. Overall they've proven to be quite reliable for most. Some experience multiple failures, but most do not. I've only had one fail on me, and it was actually my fault! So knock on wood...

Nothing wrong with Dura Spark, other than the fiddly wiring involved. Very reliable, but for most people the wiring is enough reason to avoid that style.
Nothing "wrong" with going HEI, unless you consider the hard-to-fit nature of that huge cap and coil setup a negative. Or if you just can't stand putting some GM designed stuff on your Ford. Both of which kind of put it out of my book.
But you can't argue with the ease of installation as long as you have the physical clearance. It's very large, and you can see it if you look up "HEI distributor" you'll see.
The compromise units would be any of the "ready-to-run" models from Pertronix, MSD, etc. Fewer wires than Ford, smaller and easier to fit than HEI, and performance as good as any.
Most are available just about anyway, and you can see some of the common models on our site here: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=distributor
 

DirtDonk

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By the way, there are still a few checks you can make before you toss out the old one. Just to make sure it doesn't turn into a "Baby with the bathwater" kind of experience.

For one, you need 12v to the Red wire coming out of the distributor. So make sure it's not connected to the original Red w/green wire from the Bronco harness. Especially if it's connected to the ignition coil first with a common power connection.
Another is to make sure that the gap is correct between the black module marked "41V-V4" and the round black magnetic "cam" thingy on the center shaft. The unit originally would have come with a plastic feeler gauge of the correct thickness, but if you did not find something like that in your bag-o-parts that came with the Bronco, you can look up the thickness and make your own out of plastic or cardboard.
I forget what the value is, but it's something like .030" or less maybe? You can probably look it up, or someone here using an Ignitor can fill us in on the subject. Not sure if too little of a gap is bad, but too big of a gap will definitely give you erratic running.
As will voltage that's too low on the Red wire.

And congrats on your first look-see into a distributor. They're much less intimidating when you get more familiar with their workings.

Paul
 

armynavy17

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Full Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
361
As always, DirtDonk does a great job of breaking it down. I personally went from points when I bought it, to HEI when I was younger and dumber, to Duraspark now. The wiring for Duraspark isn't nearly as difficult as you might think and I like the idea of keeping it Ford.

As for the gear, pulling the intake wouldn't really tell you much in my opinion. You can pull the distributor and see the end of the camshaft. From there you can see the casting marks for iron or the tooling marks/smoothness for steel.
 
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