door rub after floor,rocker and post replacement

[Silverhorse]

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm getting another door from a friend to try, it has new hinges on it. See if it lines up any better. Then adjust the body mounts some more. I'll give it another shot tonight!

 

[Silverhorse]

Well the other door and hinges made a big difference. And I didn't even adjust the body mount yet.

I'm going to order new hinges, probably the removable type any input on hinges?

 

[bax]

Well the other door and hinges made a big difference. And I didn't even adjust the body mount yet.

I'm going to order new hinges, probably the removable type any input on hinges?

Sounds like new hinges worked. that is a good thing.
bax

 

[Silverhorse]

Well my new Duff's lift off hinges came in today. There nice and beefy! I post results as soon as I get a chance to bolt them on.

 

[broncorick]

Boy for such small hands you do good work on your bronco!!

 

[surfer-b]

Silverhorse, From the looks in the pics the body mount behind the pass seat is too high, however I can't see how the front or the rear of the Bronco sits, also as another stated, the door needs to drop down to line up with the front fender.
1: Make sure that the body sits level on the frame, front and rear, measure from the bumpers, if you have them installed, or the frame ends to the bottom of the body, if not level you may have to add shims or cut from the bushings.
2: once the front and rear is where you want it line the door with the front fender and work your way back, you may have to add or take way from the bushings, except for the ones at the front and rear these need to stay fixed. This will tell how good you lined up the replacement panels. Use the body lines along with the gaps around the door as a judgment mark.
You have some work to do its just gonna take time. Step back, look at the whole rig, make a plan and start out fresh.

 

[Silverhorse]

Well, I got the new hinges on and still have a problem. The door gap is good at the front and rear of the door but the bottom is still an 1/2" at the bottom (front) and the door is touching at the bottom (rear).
I jacked up the body mount at the door and it raises the door at the rear but, I have to jack up the body off the frame mount 1full inch for it to help at all. Not sure what to do at this point?:?

 

[Silverhorse]

Boy for such small hands you do good work on your bronco!!

Yes, Those hinges are HUGE! LOL The little one got caught trying to chew on a hinge during the picture taking process. He's teething and will bite ANYTHING!

 

[Silverhorse]

Silverhorse, From the looks in the pics the body mount behind the pass seat is too high, however I can't see how the front or the rear of the Bronco sits, also as another stated, the door needs to drop down to line up with the front fender.
1: Make sure that the body sits level on the frame, front and rear, measure from the bumpers, if you have them installed, or the frame ends to the bottom of the body, if not level you may have to add shims or cut from the bushings.
2: once the front and rear is where you want it line the door with the front fender and work your way back, you may have to add or take way from the bushings, except for the ones at the front and rear these need to stay fixed. This will tell how good you lined up the replacement panels. Use the body lines along with the gaps around the door as a judgment mark.
You have some work to do its just gonna take time. Step back, look at the whole rig, make a plan and start out fresh.

Ok, I'll try and bring that mount behind the seat down some. I have a 1" body lift so that's no problem.

 

[Silverhorse]

Brought the body mount down behind the seat and all it did was close the gap at the top of the door. back to the drawing board!

 

[broncorick]

I wonder if raising the rear body mount would help. I have seen sag occur there as well which would open up the top part of the door opening. Does the opening measure as normal ??

 

[Silverhorse]

I wonder if raising the rear body mount would help. I have seen sag occur there as well which would open up the top part of the door opening. Does the opening measure as normal ??

That's the strange thing, both sides measure the same and the driver side is all stock, nothing replaced.

 

[Tito]

I wonder if raising the rear body mount would help. I have seen sag occur there as well which would open up the top part of the door opening. Does the opening measure as normal ??

If you need to change the bottom line without changing the door gap this is what I have seen work. As Rick said, shim both seat and rear body mounts.

 

[Silverhorse]

If you need to change the bottom line without changing the door gap this is what I have seen work. As Rick said, shim both seat and rear body mounts.

I'll give it a shot.

 

[Silverhorse]

Ok, I have shimmed till my heart is content, nothing helped enough in my particular case.?:?
I just measured both sides every possible way and then some. I also have a bigger gap between the pass. side door to windshield frame than the driver side. seems to me the door hinge post needs to go up about a 3/8'' or so and the front of the rocker needs to go up about 1/2". The rear of the rocker is where it should be according to my measurements. I guess all I can do now is start cutting

 

[kbldawg]

silverhorse, did you take a look at this?

Silverhorse,
I just replaced the same body parts and ended up with the same issue.
Turned out to be that the floor support that your body mount attaches to had sagged on the outside where the front of the rocker attaches.
I used a big bottle jack to push it up. I pushed it above square to give it some pre-load and welded everything back in place, and the gap issue was gone.
Not sure you have the same issue but in reading one of your posts you said that the body mount was not touching on that side and mine was the same way.
I also put some pre-load on the bottom of the door post by putting the bottle jack from the front tire to the front side of the post. No matter much I braced the DP pryor to welding it would drop when I tried to fit the door. You may try just cutting the DP loose at the bottom and pushing the bottom back before rewelding. This will bring the back of the door up and as long as your rocker is square the gap should come in good.
Hope this helps.

BroncoJAK was working on my door alignments and found the same problem that Tuff68 described above.

The floor pan support (front driver's side) had sagged down quite a bit. he had to jack it back up to get my doors right.

-Chad

 

[Silverhorse]

Yes Chad I actually got to talk with tuff 68 on the phone, he noticed his problem before all the welding was finished I unfortunately did not. I think I had the same issue. I welded all mine when the tub was off the frame, a body guy told me not to do that. Guess I should have listened!

 

[Silverhorse]

Ok, I have the door somewhat lined up but the windshield to door alignment are way off! The door frame at the top of the windshield is leaning way in. Anybody?

 

[Explorer]

Two possibilities: 1) top door frame is bent in, probably not. 2) Rocker and door post are too far out at bottom, most likely with work you have done. Front fender will follow them in. You have had a lot of things working against you since your first welds. Not being a smart a**, just stuff starts with one small thing off and keeps building off of that.

 

[Silverhorse]

Two possibilities: 1) top door frame is bent in, probably not. 2) Rocker and door post are too far out at bottom, most likely with work you have done. Front fender will follow them in. You have had a lot of things working against you since your first welds. Not being a smart a**, just stuff starts with one small thing off and keeps building off of that.

Yes, this is like the never ending nightmare!
Note to self, NEVER weld on the tub with it off the frame!! EVER!!!