Eldo calipers without using the e-brake

[gunnibronco]

I'm replacing my rear JD/JB6 calipers (3") with 76-78 Eldo calipers(2.5"). I won't be using the e-brake function. I just need a smaller piston caliper to fix brake bias issues.
A few questions:
Will I need to adjust anything or will they act like a normal caliper piston if I don't use the e-brake? The instructions that came with the calipers state the e-brake must be properly adjusted, and regularly readjusted to get a good pedal feel.
I'm planning to use the same pads I have in the JD/JB6 calipers. I see where the Eldo calipers have a notch and there are specific pads for these calipers that key into the notch. Will using the JD/JB7 pads work ok since I'm not using the e-brake function?
Thanks

 

[ba123]

my understanding that you have to use them. Have you already bought them?

I know there is a version that’s the same without the e-brake…I can find it if you need it.

 

[gunnibronco]

my understanding that you have to use them. Have you already bought them?

I know there is a version that’s the same without the e-brake…I can find it if you need it.

Yes I've already bought them. I have no way to run a brake cable to them.

The caliper choices that fit the brackets and rotors I have are 2.5" for the 76-78 Eldo w/parking brake, 2.93" JD6, and 3.15" JD7. I'm running the 2.93" ones and they lock up before my fronts.

 

[73azbronco]

They make brake solenoids for parking brakes.

 

[gunnibronco]

They make brake solenoids for parking brakes.

I have a line lock for my p-brake. I can't really route a p-brake cable.

My problem isn't with the p-brake, I need a smaller caliper and the Eldo caliper with the p-brake is the only smaller caliper that will work with my brackets and rotors.

 

[DirtDonk]

Hopefully somebody can answer your question about this. I believe the special tab on the special pads is to keep the piston from backing out the wrong direction. Or maybe both directions?
Which I believe would loosen up the brake and give you the soft pedal. Or in the opposite scenario, tighten them up to the point where they could lock up.
Keeping the E brake adjusted is part of keeping the travel to a minimum. Of course, as they wear a little bit, and the gap becomes excessive, that might bias your brakes to the front even more, to the point where you really like it!
But the alternative does not sound too dire. Seems like you could just occasionally adjust the E brake manually as part of your maintenance.
Bit of a pain, but it’s the kind of thing that we sometimes do in order for our fun projects to work just the way we want them.

 

[nvrstuk]

Here ya go. I ran the Caddy calipers with intentions to be "legal" back around '96 and run a mech ebrake. NEVER happened! lol

At the same time I put them in I put in front and rear line locks... never looked back and that was '96 (I think). I did put in a mech ebrake style line lock this year to replace my original rear one I got from Summit . Front one is still working great. The new one does not use electricity to hold the pressure in the line to the brakes- perfect.

My Caddy rear disc brakes worked fine. Just adjust the ebrake. Doesn't mean you have to have the cables connected!
This is same as not adjusting your rear brake shoes and then expecting the pedal to not go to the floor when you hit the brakes. Adjust them like you normall would then you are set to go. I'll bet you will never have to adjust them again as they won't get enough wear.

I did the same with the Exploder rear disc brakes. Bought 'em and never tried connecting super long cables to them. Love my line locks.

You're good, don't worry.

 

[DirtDonk]

What pads did you use?
Specific with the tabs, or just regular?

 

[gunnibronco]

Here ya go. I ran the Caddy calipers with intentions to be "legal" back around '96 and run a mech ebrake. NEVER happened! lol

At the same time I put them in I put in front and rear line locks... never looked back and that was '96 (I think). I did put in a mech ebrake style line lock this year to replace my original rear one I got from Summit . Front one is still working great. The new one does not use electricity to hold the pressure in the line to the brakes- perfect.

My Caddy rear disc brakes worked fine. Just adjust the ebrake. Doesn't mean you have to have the cables connected!
This is same as not adjusting your rear brake shoes and then expecting the pedal to not go to the floor when you hit the brakes. Adjust them like you normall would then you are set to go. I'll bet you will never have to adjust them again as they won't get enough wear.

I did the same with the Exploder rear disc brakes. Bought 'em and never tried connecting super long cables to them. Love my line locks.

You're good, don't worry.

Thanks for the first hand experience. I didn't give it any thought till I read the instructions that came with my calipers. I started to think I had wasted the money on the calipers and they weren't going to work or would need constant adjustment because I don't have p-brake cables. I'm running a simple hydraulic ball valve on my rear lines and it works great as a p-brake. I was wheeling with a new friend this weekend and he saw how it worked and is installing one himself, because he hates his Eldo p-brakes, lol.

What pads did you use?
Specific with the tabs, or just regular?

I'm curious about this. I've read a little bit and watched one of the videos on the link below, but I'm still not sure if I need to worry about the piston rotating without the correct pads. I'm hoping it only has to do with the p-brake operating.

I stumbled on these set up instructions. I'm not sure if it would be helpful to anyone but I haven't seen anything quite as detailed. The instructions from Lugnut4x4 that came with my calipers are totally different, would never work if this is the correct procedure.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...01/76-78-Cadillac-Eldorado-Caliper-set-up.pdf

 

[Speedrdr]

Here ya go. I ran the Caddy calipers with intentions to be "legal" back around '96 and run a mech ebrake. NEVER happened! lol

At the same time I put them in I put in front and rear line locks... never looked back and that was '96 (I think). I did put in a mech ebrake style line lock this year to replace my original rear one I got from Summit . Front one is still working great. The new one does not use electricity to hold the pressure in the line to the brakes- perfect.

My Caddy rear disc brakes worked fine. Just adjust the ebrake. Doesn't mean you have to have the cables connected!
This is same as not adjusting your rear brake shoes and then expecting the pedal to not go to the floor when you hit the brakes. Adjust them like you normall would then you are set to go. I'll bet you will never have to adjust them again as they won't get enough wear.

I did the same with the Exploder rear disc brakes. Bought 'em and never tried connecting super long cables to them. Love my line locks.

You're good, don't worry.

Not having experience with drag racing , except as a spectator, are front disc brake line locks 1) always electric and 2) can the electric front disc brake line locks be fashioned to work as an E-brake? Probably not the best question of the post, but it’s all I got this morning.

Randy

 

[Broncobowsher]

I want to say that Speedway Motors offers that caliper in multiple bore options. For low buck circle track racing to adjust brake bias.

 

[rocknhorse76]

Why not just keep the JB6 calipers and install an adjustable proportioning valve? What front calipers are you running?

 

[nvrstuk]

The better option I think is this.

Run what you have and make them adjustable with an adjustable brake bias valve. I bought mine from Summit at the same time I bought the frt/rear line locks and it works great. I have installed 4 or 5 different rear brake calipers since then and you just twist a knob and the rear brake bias is dialed in. No top, no tire, no gear? 1/2 turn. Loaded for the Con? 1/2 twist.

Simple.

The problem with line locks now is after checking all over there aren't any electric ones that have a duty cycle of more than a minute or two. They even state it on the packaging.

There's only one that can be used as an ebrake. Uses 12v to set it then it's mechanically locked until you turn it off. Uses no power once set.

 

[rocknhorse76]

The better option I think is this.

Run what you have and make them adjustable with an adjustable brake bias valve. I bought mine from Summit at the same time I bought the frt/rear line locks and it works great. I have installed 4 or 5 different rear brake calipers since then and you just twist a knob and the rear brake bias is dialed in. No top, no tire, no gear? 1/2 turn. Loaded for the Con? 1/2 twist.

Simple.

The problem with line locks now is after checking all over there aren't any electric ones that have a duty cycle of more than a minute or two. They even state it on the packaging.

There's only one that can be used as an ebrake. Uses 12v to set it then it's mechanically locked until you turn it off. Uses no power once set.

Yep, the adjustable valve and Mico lock work great on my rig!

 

[gunnibronco]

I want to say that Speedway Motors offers that caliper in multiple bore options. For low buck circle track racing to adjust brake bias.

These are the metric calipers, they don't fit the brackets or rotors I'm running. I'm hoping to not reinvent my whole rear brake set up. I'm not sure there is a rotor that will fit those calipers and my 14b hubs.

Why not just keep the JB6 calipers and install an adjustable proportioning valve? What front calipers are you running?

I am and I'm still locking up the rear brakes (under very hard emergency style braking). 1996 F350 fronts.

 

[rocknhorse76]

These are the metric calipers, they don't fit the brackets or rotors I'm running. I'm hoping to not reinvent my whole rear brake set up. I'm not sure there is a rotor that will fit those calipers and my 14b hubs.


I am and I'm still locking up the rear brakes (under very hard emergency style braking). 1996 F350 fronts.

I have the same calipers (97 F-350) on the front of mine and have no issues with lockup on 37’s even with hydroboost. I had to do a hard stop the other night on wet pavement when an elk ran out in front of me. I have the Wilwood APV and a 1.25” bore MC.

 

[gunnibronco]

I have the same calipers (97 F-350) on the front of mine and have no issues with lockup on 37’s even with hydroboost. I have the Wilwood APV and a 1.25” bore MC.

I can't get my fronts to lock up, rears always lock first. 37's and hboost. My mc is too big (1.5") with a Wilwood apv. I'll be downsizing the MC (1-5/16"). That will give me a little softer/longer pedal but won't change my bias.

 

[rocknhorse76]

I can't get my fronts to lock up, rears always lock first. 37's and hboost. My mc is too big (1.5") with a Wilwood apv. I'll be downsizing the MC (1-5/16"). That will give me a little softer/longer pedal but won't change my bias.

You might consider trying the 1.25” bore MC. That’s what Ford used with those front calipers and HB. I barely have to push my pedal to slow down and actually have my APV set at full pressure to the rear.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I can't get my fronts to lock up, rears always lock first. 37's and hboost. My mc is too big (1.5") with a Wilwood apv. I'll be downsizing the MC (1-5/16"). That will give me a little softer/longer pedal but won't change my bias.

Make sure the ports are correct. Usually front port to rear brakes. But not always.

 

[gunnibronco]

Make sure the ports are correct. Usually front port to rear brakes. But not always.

I've swapped lines with no changes. From what I've read almost all MCs are 50/50 with proportioning done outside the MC. But I've never found a definitive answer to that matter.

I've been reading, posting, changing things on my truck for months on this issue. I really didn't want to change rear calipers but I see no other route forward.