EZ harness hook up with Explorer alt

[crawler73]

What is the best "hot in run" wire to hook to the alt? Is there a way to know if a wire is "hot in run" vs "hot in run/start"? I have a few extra wire choices just not sure at what point they have power and don't want to put a "hot in run/start" to the alt and screw it up.

 

[DirtDonk]

I don't think using a hot in Run and Start would hurt anything, but never really thought about it much, so can't say for sure. Maybe someone would know?
However, the only hot in runandstart is usually the ignition system, and I don't like tapping into that one anyway.

But the best one usually is the one that used to be dedicated to the original voltage regulator. Not sure what color that would be on the EZ harness, but it was Green w/red on the original, and that's the color it would be from the back of the ignition switch unless you changed things all the way to that plug?
Centech and some others still use Green for their regulator, so maybe EZ does too?

Or is EZ like the AAW, where they don't even have that circuit any longer?
What does it say in the instructions? Got a link to any instructions online, if there are any?

What extra wires are left under the hood with this harness? If there are any that are not part of the ACC section, you could likely use it. The ignition system is working off of the same function as the regulator wire on the ignition switch, but as mentioned, I prefer to not tap anything into the ignition system in case it ever gives you trouble.
Definitely use the old regulator wire from the key if it exists on your new harness.

Paul

 

[crawler73]

So with the help of EFI Guy and the EZ Harness tech I have it 90% figured out.
Powering up the efi will be the "hot in run/start" pink coil + wire. The I have a red choke wire and a white alt excitor wire which are both "hot in run" so either of those could be hook to the alt.

 

[DirtDonk]

So you're going to use the "alt exciter" wire, correct?
That's what it's there for after all.

Of course, you can use either maybe, but using the correct one marked for that purpose would maybe save you or someone else some trouble down the line if you're ever trying to track down a problem or just trace wires.

Paul

 

[512cadillac]

ez-wiring

I have a EZ-wiring harness and a 130amp alternator. I used the excitor wire.

 

[crawler73]

Yes I plan on using the alt excitor wire.

Cadillac-how did you hook up the alt power wire?
EZ tech told me to take the alt power to the alt and then the bypass wire from alt to the starter relay. That doesn't seem right cause there is no heavy gauge wire from alt to battery.

 

[broncoman1972]

I used the Explorers factory junction box under my hood so my setup is a little different. I ran the heavy gauge factory wire from the Explorer alternator to the junction box, through a 175a fuse (Explorer factory stuff). From the fused side, I have a wire that powers the junction box and a heavy gauge wire to the battery positive. I have no external starter relay with the Explorer starter.

Oh, and the white exitor wire from the EZ harness to the alt. (green/red).

Based on what the EZ tech said, he maybe assumed you have a heavy wire from the battery side of the solenoid to the battery already for supplying power to the starter. Basically the heavy bypass wire charges the battery. The EZ wire is a supply to the EZ fuse panel, not an output. In my setup I connected that wire through the underhood junction box to supply inside power (like I said, my setup is a little different...)

 

[DirtDonk]

What he did is consistent with what you're expected to do according to EZ Wire crawler.
You'll need to come up with something like this: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Battery_Charge_Cable_AMG_fused
Where the new charge wire is 6ga or 4ga (same sizes Ford uses) depending on the length.
The 175 amp fuse is consistent with the fact that many 3G and 4G alternators can put out more than their rated 130 amps. So while a 150 amp fuse might seem reasonable, it can be a bit low. Hence the use of larger gauge cables too. Gives everything a little headroom.

Paul

 

[crawler73]

I have a mega fuse. Right now I have heavy gauge wire from battery to the starter relay, and from the battery side of the relay a heavy gauge wire to the alt.

I guess my confusion is there is a alt power and a solenoid power both seem to power up the fuse box, so I'm not 100% why both need to be hooked up.

 

[broncoman1972]

I can't remember without looking at my diagrams, but I do know that part of the EZ fuse panel is constant power and the other part is ignition power. Not sure if the solenoid power is coming off of the battery side of the solenoid. If so, it's constant power and that would be the difference. Just basing this on poor memory and speculation though....:-[

 

[crawler73]

Ok so I talked with the tech at EZ harness.

The alt power goes to the alt and solenoid power to the starter solenoid. Which I knew that's where they hooked up but didn't know until broncoman said something, the fuse box is powered by a combination of alt power and solenoid power wires. Then he's saying the bypass wire ( maybe 8gauge) is big enough to go from alt to starter solenoid. I'm not entirely comfortable with that so I am on running a 4 or 6 gauge wire.

On thing I forgot to ask the tech.....I was told to put the fusible link on the end of the solenoid power wire before attaching it to the starter solenoid. Does anyone see a problem using a maxi fuse instead? 60 amp? I figure that would be easier to replace on a trail then a piece of wire taped up in loom.

 

[broncoman1972]

On thing I forgot to ask the tech.....I was told to put the fusible link on the end of the solenoid power wire before attaching it to the starter solenoid. Does anyone see a problem using a maxi fuse instead? 60 amp? I figure that would be easier to replace on a trail then a piece of wire taped up in loom.

I'd run a fuse (actually, I do). Just make sure the one you choose can handle the current of all of the circuits powered by it in the EZ panel. I believe mine is a 60amp as well. I can check shortly since I drove it to work today.

Yep, 60amp Maxi fuse to the inside.

 

[crawler73]

Thanks broncoman for your help!

 

[broncoman1972]

No problem. Now to go a bit too far. Here's my diagram. ;D

You do have to pay attention to the wiring colors as I spliced the EZ harness into some of the Explorer wiring.

And here's a link to my entire wiring setup.

Yeah. I got a little carried away with it. But then again, I do know exactly how my truck is wired and I'll be able to trace anything if there's trouble in years to come.

 

[DirtDonk]

...the fuse box is powered by a combination of alt power and solenoid power wires.

Yep. The battery side when the engine is off, the alternator side when the engine is running.

Then he's saying the bypass wire (maybe 8gauge) is big enough to go from alt to starter solenoid. I'm not entirely comfortable with that so I am on running a 4 or 6 gauge wire.

Nothing wrong with you going overkill for sure. Bigger is better up to the point it becomes just too awkward to work with.
But what he said was true too, to a certain extent. It's all about the combination of gauge AND length.
The factory wire is 10ga or thereabouts, but is probably over 10 feet long, which is what makes it too small for a high-output alternator. If it was only a foot and a half, you could probably run a 3G on it!

An 8ga wire is way more than enough for over 100 amps over just the 1 foot or so going directly from the alternator to the battery. But hey, why chance an overload or not being able to hook up that 250 amp alternator you find for a steal on Craigslist someday, right?
So yeah, your 6ga or even 4ga solution will be great. I say go with 6 just because it's easier to work with and over just this short distance is more than enough.
I used 4ga on a recent build, but that was because we routed the charge wire back over the engine, along the firewall, inner fender, then to the battery. Much longer than most.

Does anyone see a problem using a maxi fuse instead? 60 amp? I figure that would be easier to replace on a trail then a piece of wire taped up in loom.

Absolutely. Like broncoman said, it's a great way to do it. And for the same reason you quote about being out on the trail. Much prefer an easy to replace fuse, rather than have to splice in a whole new section of wire in the rain or snow 100 miles from home.
Agree that 60 is more than enough to cover most EB's, and certainly the more stock-ish ones. If you're putting extra loads on the fuse panel from other accessories you might run, you could bump that up to 70 or 80, but your initial 60 is likely just right.

Have fun. Sounds like it'll be ready to fire any time!

Paul

 

[crawler73]

Broncoman- which EZ harness fuse style do you have? I have the mini 20 ( not what I want after knowing more about them) and for the life of me can't figure out how to mount it. There are no bolt holes, just two almost hooks. Almost as if you drill to holes and then put the hooks in the holes and push down to lock it in place. That's the only thing I can come up with and I hope that's not how they intend it.

 

[DirtDonk]

I hate that. I purchased a Painless harness they'd dubbed "their finest harness" and it included a nifty (looking) fuse box also with no way to mount it!
They had some sort of a bracket, but it also had no real clever way to mount it, nor any details in the instructions. Kind of left it up to your own devices as to drilling holes for the claw feet to clip into.
Very un-sanitary if you ask me. Makes you want to come up with your own piece.

I wonder if yours is the same basic fuse box? Never seen the EZ version, but it sounds similar.

Paul

 

[broncoman1972]

Broncoman- which EZ harness fuse style do you have? I have the mini 20 ( not what I want after knowing more about them) and for the life of me can't figure out how to mount it. There are no bolt holes, just two almost hooks. Almost as if you drill to holes and then put the hooks in the holes and push down to lock it in place. That's the only thing I can come up with and I hope that's not how they intend it.

That's the same harness I used. I made this box to mount in the ash tray to hold it. Basically it does mount the way you described...

 

[DirtDonk]

Clever!
Is it up and running yet? Got installed pics if so?

Paul

 

[broncoman1972]

Thanks Paul. Here's a pic of it installed from my EFI thread. I could get more if you like. I modeled my ashtray mod after a pic I saved from a post from Madgyver.


Sent on the fly