FiTech Frustration! Fuel pressure takes a dive once hot

[DirtDonk]

Well bummer MB. Worth a shot and was quick at least. But would have been a lot better if it had fixed whatever issues you have.
Did you say what exact issue you're having? Sorry if I forgot.

And what about some kind of shielding just as a test? Nothing fancy or permanent (yet) to block some ignition and maybe alternator noise.
Not sure if even a temporary shield needs to be grounded to the engine for best results or not, but you could try it both ways.
Maybe just some aluminum sheet stuck between the EFI unit and the distributor, if that's what people are talking about. Just to see if you notice any change.

Paul

 

[73azbronco]

Welp I ran a 10ga wire from battery- straight to fitech flange. Still runs like crap

Power and ground both?

 

[MultiBeast]

Markw yours still working correctly. What did you change ground wise?

 

[markw]

Hi Beast, sorry for not responding, been away for a week. I'll get some pictures of the ground but in short (so to speak) it's grounded to the frame.

 

[73azbronco]

Sniper directions very specific on using clean electrical path, direct off battery hot and direct back to battery ground.

 

[markw]

Correction: Ground from housing direct to negative battery terminal, not frame as I stated. Different ground problem needed clean frame ground. Sorry for any confusion.

 

[twister01]

Fitech

All I can say is I wish I saw this before I bought one...………
I just bought two of these Fitech systems , One for my Dads bronco one for mine. My Dads runs great no problems.(thank god) Mine runs good till it warms up ,then stumbles and then dies.. So I will start to try and find out what the issue is. Thank you all for posting this up for the rest of us to start the process of getting our broncos back on the road.

Dave

 

[73azbronco]

Did it run good before?

 

[MultiBeast]

Oh no twister. Mine is on its way back to fitech.

 

[MultiBeast]

I grounded straight to battery, still runs horribly

 

[Jp76]

Mine was sent back twice and then still wouldn't work (never been used), and after playing around, I got it all sorted out and it runs now, but I only have about 30 miles on it. I did think I noticed some hesitation after it warmed up though; it could also be that I simply do not trust it and am waiting for something bad to happen, Haha. For the record, I would have never buy another one, even if they changed their customer service and design. I have simply had way too many issues. Let us know if you figure out the issues. Good Luck.

 

[swmrdrn]

I might have posted this before... the best FiTech tech support is the owners' group on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1138882606178838/?tn-str=*F

I have had mine in for at least 12,000 miles and it has been great. Hell, it even managed to keep my old smoking and completely worn out 289 running. Clean grounds, a relay to be sure I get 12v while cranking, no vacuum leaks and no exhaust leaks is what it takes to make it run great. A carb will put up will all sorts of minor leaks and doesn't need any electronics. Of course, try driving that from sea level to 9,000 feet.

With that in mind I think would go with a sniper if I was doing the install today and use their new sniper specific hyperspark dizzy. It really helps make EFI controlled timing plug and play.

 

[Jp76]

Thanks for the support tip! crossing my fingers on mine, since it still only has 30 miles on it.

 

[Cortez]

Is any of this grounding issue associated to aluminum intake vs. steel intake manifold? I have steel intake manifold now and runs fine with fitech...thinking of switching to an eddy aluminum intake.

 

[swmrdrn]

Is any of this grounding issue associated to aluminum intake vs. steel intake manifold? I have steel intake manifold now and runs fine with fitech...thinking of switching to an eddy aluminum intake.

I'm running an aluminum manifold without any troubles at all but I did run a ground from the throttle body bolt to a valve cover bolt and made sure the block was well grounded to the frame and the frame was then grounded to the body. Grounding on Fitech is critical which can be an issue with old cars/trucksn that often have crappy wiring, rusty frames, and bodies with several coats of paint.

 

[MultiBeast]

Got replacement fitech. Will be putting it on this weekend!!! All of my fingers are crossed

 

[swmrdrn]

Got replacement fitech. Will be putting it on this weekend!!! All of my fingers are crossed

We are here for you. Feel free to message me for my phone number. I’m happy to help you if I can.

 

[MultiBeast]

According to fitech my original unit had a faulty ecu and the map wasn’t functioning correctly. Installing the replacement on Thursday. I’m ready to drive!

 

[markw]

Well that's actually good news. Bad ECU means your wiring is probably fine. Looking forward to your report. We are still battling some wiring issue as the new unit has reverted to the previous symptoms.

 

[MultiBeast]

Oh nooo. I have all new wiring harness with fitech power coming straight from battery and now am running a 10 gauge wire from battery ground to fitech mounting stud. Hopefully this is all it is. If not I’m going to lose it...