Ford 9" Third Member Questions

[377]

Hello,
I'm in the process of putting together a new rear end for my rig. While choosing the components for my new third member I was given several options for a yoke and pinion support. The yoke options are both a short or long narrow 1310 yoke or a 1330 short or long wide yoke. The last option is a billet 1350 yoke. I'm familiar with 1310,1330 and 1350 u joints but, not really sure about the short and long parts. Does one yoke length have an advantage over the other?The pinion support options are standard, nodular iron,aluminum or billet steel. In the past I've just used standard pinion supports. Is there any reason to use one of these options other then standard? If anyone could give me some advice I'd greatly appreciate it. The rig in question has 31 spline axles with a Tru Trac Carrier and the engine has about 400 hp. It also has a C4 transmission with a Dana 20 transfer case. I haven't purchased drive shafts yet in case I went with a u joint other the a 1310. Thanks again for any help or advice you guys might be able to give me. Lastly the rig will see moderate trail use for the most part.

 

[sykanr0ng]

I would go with 1310 joints because they flex more and if something is going to break I would rather it be an easy to fix U joint.

If your third member case is nodular iron (with 400hp that is a good idea) then your pinion support should be nodular iron also.

 

[Yeller]

Get the Daytona pinion support in aluminum or iron, your choice. As for yolks get what ever forged yolk you want, imo they are better than the billet, just not as sexy looking. Personally I would do 1350, I'd rather break an axle or even transfer case before a ujoint. Ujoints break they usually clean out the exhaust, beat up the floor, rip out e brake cables, brake lines, fuel lines and anything else that happens to be in the way

 

[snipes243]

Just an FYI you can always go with a forged 1350 yoke, and use a standard 1310 driveshaft. You just have to change out the bottom ujoint to a 1310 to 1350 joint. It nice if you think you ever upgrade in the future.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/5-460X/10002/-1

You can get the non spicer version at local parts houses as well.

 

[Apogee]

Shorter yokes tend to make for longer driveshafts, which in an EB is worth something. The rear U-joint doesn't see a lot of angularity, so I'd go 1350 as well back there and like Yeller said, either break something else or even better yet, nothing back there at all.

 

[Rustytruck]

use a solid pinion spacer and not a crush sleeve.

 

[sanndmann3]

use a solid pinion spacer and not a crush sleeve.

Good advice when setting up the gears. Much better option.

 

[Hozr]

Contrary to popular belief the 9" is NOT indestructible. The housing is great the pinion carrier not so much in stock form. Get the upgraded nodular as mentioned!

I can't find the pics but I walked a pinion right out the side of a stock carrier.