Front disc brake advice

[broncobusted]

Hello all im getting ready to place an order for a front disc brake conversion and am planning on getting the kit from WH. i am looking for any advise or suggestions from any who have used this or something anyone thinks is better. Good or bad ? Going on 69. Thanks for any input.
Dave

 

[bronconut73]

If its a '69 and its stock then its a Dana 30 and you kind of have to run the Chevy conversion which WH sells and its a great all inclusive kit. I think all you need is time and bearing grease.

 

[joebronco73]

I just did this conversion about 2 weeks ago. I didn't have any issues during the install or since. It was said to me that, unless you're going to run the heavy duty MC with a booster, the later model MC will work fine (that's what I'm using currently, until I go with the Wilwood MOAB setup). As for ease of installation, the most time-consuming part was the knuckle clean up and the bleeding.

 

[broncobusted]

Great advice and yes it is original so d30 i think i undertood it would also work with a d44 if i ever go that route. Did i see i need a new master or can i use the original ? Looking forward to stopping without having to say a little prayer lmao.

 

[Rustytruck]

Make sure you get a brake proportion tool from someplace.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Proportion...ash=item2f07271c18:g:Un8AAOxyiSlSVWcq&vxp=mtr

 

[1971lubr]

Make sure you get a brake proportion tool from someplace.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Proportion...ash=item2f07271c18:g:Un8AAOxyiSlSVWcq&vxp=mtr

Please explain this. I just put the wh disc brakes on my 71. I haven't bled them yet, but wasn't aware of needing any special tool to bleed the proportioning valve.

 

[pipeline010]

the most time-consuming part was the knuckle clean up and the bleeding.

Sorry to piggyback, but planning this same upgrade on same year and same d30...

Q: We still have to grind that nub off the knuckle for a 69 (d30), correct? To make room for the caliper?

Seen it done on later models (youtube), wasn't sure if the d30s were any different (although no reason to think they were).

 

[broncobusted]

So far it looks like 100% for the WH. They do have nice parts. And great customer service. I might just make ocbr this year. Woo hoo. Thanks for the input everyone.

 

[broncobusted]

I was told there would be no machining with the Wh kit. Hopefully one of the folks above who just did theirs will chime back in. Id like to know that also.

 

[Rustytruck]

Please explain this. I just put the wh disc brakes on my 71. I haven't bled them yet, but wasn't aware of needing any special tool to bleed the proportioning valve.

This tool you pull out the switch in the proportion valve and screw this in. It keeps the spool valve centered in the proportion valve so your lines bleed properly. This is especially helpful on old valves that have dirty old fluid. Sometimes if not used the valve gets shoved off to one side and gets stuck and then you get really upset with the whole process while you wait to order a new valve.

https://www.jamcosuspension.com/products/sfID1/33/sfID2/134/sfID3/130/productID/1481

 

[DirtDonk]

It's a good idea. Most don't do it, and most get away with it. But over the years plenty of us have had non-working (more like, on all the time!) dash mounted Brake Warning lamps.
Of course, it's not just the disc conversions that do it. Most failures just come over time and some stopped working properly when they were only a few years old.
But the little tool is still a good thing.

Paul

I was told there would be no machining with the Wh kit. Hopefully one of the folks above who just did theirs will chime back in. Id like to know that also.

Not sure who told you that, but perhaps they were misunderstanding the word "machining" to mean the traditional the word to mean precise machine modification (think milling machine) of new parts to make them fit.
But as far as I know, you still need to grind the knuckle to clear the caliper, whether you have a Dana 30 or a 44.

Now, I have never installed a set on a 30, but pretty sure that's correct.
And the instructions are available online for preview (https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.wildhorses4x4.com/downloads/WH/3002-3003 4-4-17.pdf) so you can verify that way too.
I have never noted any mention of a 30 being any different than a 44 when it came to the need for grinding the knuckle.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

...i think i understood it would also work with a d44 if i ever go that route.

Correct. The parts used in the kits (a mix of Ford and GM-based brake components) will bolt to either a Ford drum brake Dana 30 or 44 front end. All the parts should swap right over to the 44 when needed.

It's the "Ford-specific" disc brakes from a '76 or later truck or Bronco that will ONLY work on the 44.

Did i see i need a new master or can i use the original?

Yes and no. Depends on your preference.
You should be able to get away with using your original style master. Even with the larger-than-Ford caliper pistons, the extra pedal travel should be minimal.
However, it's very likely that your pedal will still initially feel a little "softer" because of the larger piston calipers needing more fluid to do the same work. Which will let the pedal move a little farther down that it did with the drum brakes.
Well, that's assuming that the drum brakes were adjusted properly in the first place! If not, then you might actually see an improvement in that department with the new setup.

The general setup for the larger calipers (whether the GM-based stuff, or the larger Ford "T-bird" calipers when doing the Ford swap) is to typically use a master cylinder with a 1.125" bore to handle the bigger piston volume. But this also pretty much dictates that you use a power booster as well. If not, you'll be getting lots of exercise for your legs!
So stick with the stock 1" master for now, and see how you like it. Just make sure it's all bled well, the calipers are mounted correctly (with the bleeder at the highest position), you ground enough material to fit, and do some short test drives to see how you like it.

There are a lot of members here using their stock masters with the disc brakes, but I don't remember hearing any definitive feedback on how they liked the pedal feel after the swap. Or if they didn't like it.
Anyone care to comment on that?

I am still using the stock master on my '71 with Ford disc brakes, and (I believe) a larger 1.125" master with a vacuum booster on the '68.
Both have good solid pedals.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[1971lubr]

I was told there would be no machining with the Wh kit. Hopefully one of the folks above who just did theirs will chime back in. Id like to know that also.

I did grind a bit off the knuckles on my 30. Took about a minute per side with an angle grinder. I don't believe 30s need ground as much as 44s.

 

[1971lubr]

This tool you pull out the switch in the proportion valve and screw this in. It keeps the spool valve centered in the proportion valve so your lines bleed properly. This is especially helpful on old valves that have dirty old fluid. Sometimes if not used the valve gets shoved off to one side and gets stuck and then you get really upset with the whole process while you wait to order a new valve.

https://www.jamcosuspension.com/products/sfID1/33/sfID2/134/sfID3/130/productID/1481

Thanks Rustytruck

 

[broncobusted]

And there is another wonderful thing about WH. Paul has been helping me over the years since i started putting my dads bronco back together. I now feel feel completely ready to start this project thanks to all my bronco family. I appreciate all the input from everyone.
Off to the tool shed

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks bb. Hope that was the info you needed, and we can continue to help make the project(s?) as easy, if not exactly as cheap(!) as possible.

Just don't walk behind the tool shed. Granny's got her hick'ry switch and is just waiting for an excuse!;D

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

By the way, what is this project entailing? Just wondering if you should be looking at new u-joints and king-pin bearings while you've got it this far apart?
Actually, I'd avoid the king-pins as long as possible, but would certainly see if they need some cleaning and repacking with grease.

But the axle u-joints do freeze up and/or wear out pretty often, so thought I'd mention it.
And speaking of mentioning it, you familiar with the wheel bearing adjusting procedure on these things? That's the other thing you'll have to deal with while going back together for hopefully the last time this decade!

Paul