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WELL your engine has 120lb of compression . So any thing in that area.
I've always just used the adapters from compression tester .. Into the spark plug hole & Then Put a Milton S727 or S711.. Whichever the number of the air chuck adapter is .. 1/4 pipe thread & COUPLED THE AIR HOSE TO IT & LET R Rip Tater Chip.
50 psi should be plenty if you dont have issues with blowby or valve sealing. Bring piston to top dead center so when you pressurize cylinder piston doesn't try and move down. Also if piston is up you shouldn't loose valve if you have to give spring a tap to release keepers.
Old farmer trick. With the piston all the way down, pull the spark plug, fill the cylinder with nylon parachute cord bring the piston back up. Of course, leaving a tail on the cord to retrieve it when you are done.
We had to do that string trick on the trail once with a 400 Ford M motor. You have to carry extra springs, retainers and keepers and spring tool with that bastard motor.
In a pinch the cord from a hoodie worked for us.
400 Ford M motor. You have to carry extra springs, retainers and keepers and spring tool with that bastard motor.
In a pinch the cord from a hoodie worked for us.
Shop air pressure is what everyone uses. 100-150 PSI works pretty good.
A 1.5" valve with 100 PSI of air pressure on the face has about 175 pounds of force keeping it closed.
Breaking the keepers loose is the hardest part. Couple of wacks on a socket over the retainer usually does it. When you get a wack that doesn't open the valve, that is when you put the tool on and gently remove them.