lessons learned so you don't have to- 7.3L godzilla

[cscotted]

so..I don't post a whole lot... last time I did was years and years ago when I did the distributor- less explorer motor with Gary and surfer B's help in my 74.. way back when people said to just use a distributor cause its easier and why do I want to go through all that trouble, etc etc... well I enjoy the work and its fun for me..

im not going to do an entire step by step thread as of now, but I wanted to pass along some things for others to consider before (IF) they pull the trigger on a godzilla swap .

I jumped into this out of a whim and boredom, I had a perfectly good running built 351W EFI and 4r70w in y 77 that I daily drive...but I ripped it out and bought a 2021 f350 7.3L ..

so on to the info that I think will be handy that I either I didn't already have, or didn't consider or wasn't aware of .

for the EB, you can count on the OEM FEADS going in the trash, at least for me... I didn't want to have a big body lift... (edit- I HAD to do a 2"BL)
1.The power steering pump was into the front crossmember and touching the 77 steering gearbox-solution- Holley front dress
2. The OEM ac compressor was also into the front of the frame on the passenger side-Holley front dress
3. OEM oil pan was into the front crossmember-cut the front crossmember and reinforced with .250 wall rectangular tube
4. OEM oil pan and oil cooler were about two inches from the dana 44 ( low pinion) - solution fat fender garage shortened oil pan retaining the OEM variable drive oil pump and an earls fitting to run cooler lines with 8AN-
5. PB assembly was ripped out before I even started to mock things up, but it was obviously not going to work out.-solution wild horses wildwood hydro boost
6. My particular engine came with dual mount alternators and they weren't in my way. couldn't give it away so trashed em and Holley high drive alternator
7. the OEM lift points are great for pulling a motor, but really do not help you in any way shape or form trying to position this thing in- solution was an engine lift plate (intake) from summit
8. OEM intake- throttle body angle was crazy up into the hood and the long runners make it tall. 3" body lift would cure this but I opted for the Holley intake.( edit- not proven but…. I think a 2” BL and the oem intake is actually the better option, it will keep your elbow out of the radiator fan area)
9. exhaust manifolds dump right out onto the frame rails, especially after I lowered the engine as far as possible.- solution, cut the cast steel manifold to make them shorter and TIG weld some 304 stainless flanges.
10. control pack- ford motorsports control pack for manual trans-since im using the quick 6 controller for the 6r80
11. engine mounts- plenty of those out there im not going to promote the ones I used cause I don't like them very much and will likely rip them out and make my own, I was disappointed in them.( edit i swapped my originals out for some summit generic ford mounts- excellent choice over my originals and cheaper)

Transmissions-
1. originally I wanted the 10r80 but I found out no one will sell me a control pack for the 7.3 and 10r80 because they are working the "bugs" out..and 10r140 are gigantic and again I didn't want a 3" body lift so I opted for a 6R80 and a 1"BL
2. electronic transfer case with a controller will fit but you end up with a driveshaft that's about 18" long - solution, Atlas 2
3- im using the quick 6 and the remote display.


Radiator- I had a Ron Davis and the explorer fan that cooled my 351W great except in a drive through on a 100 deg day with the ac on, never overheated but climbed up there..anyway, had to ditch that because the Holley front dress puts the lower onto the passenger side - solution, griffin radiator with SPAL fan lower inlet on passenger side.(edit- cools great so far)

monitoring gauges- I already had a Dakota and a BIM for the proflo4 , so I just purchased the Dakota BIM for OBD2 interface with the ford motorsports control pack (edit- oil pressure not supported by CAN and the dakota- need an adapter to run oem op switch plus dakota sending unit)

fuel, I already had a stainless tank from wild horses with in tank pump and a regulator. ( ford control pack must be return style with a regulator)

 

[cscotted]

here's a few pictures during initial mockup... oil pan clearance, stock idler pulley clearance next to gearbox... etc

 

[cscotted]

more random mockup pictures. red is the new engine intake plate that made life easier especially working alone

 

[1sicbronconut]

Been a decent engine so far but before you get it installed I'd pull the valve covers and check the valve springs, lifters, and cam shaft for any broken or worn parts. Maybe going with a high pinion 9" could help with any driveshaft concern

 

[cscotted]

had to re route brake lines and weld flanges to em manifolds

 

[cscotted]

the ford performance intake-and the Holley high mount accessory drive

 

[cscotted]

its a work in progress but a lot happened in a three week window...im sure some more will jump out at me and I will try to post it..I will also try to do better at pictures cause that's always the best part..

 

[ared77]

I'm not in he process of doing this swap but I appreciate all the good tips, it's great that others won't have to learn the hard way because you shared info.

 

[cscotted]

that's the sole reason for me sharing....new things are usually a pain and cost a lot more than they should just out of the fact there are unknowns...hopefully if anything people can see it isn't a drop in swap. ...definitely obtainable though

 

[ammowaster]

Very nice. Obviously a better fit for full size rigs.

 

[cscotted]

Very nice. Obviously a better fit for full size rigs.

I would venture to say much much easier and you could do it much cheaper.....lol

 

[Madgyver]

let us know how it runs in the EB..

 

[73azbronco]

Wish I had the skill and time and money to push a front core out 2 inches, stretch the body panels 2 inches, and custom build a radiator that runs full width of core on top of the frame rails.

 

[cscotted]

Wish I had the skill and time and money to push a front core out 2 inches, stretch the body panels 2 inches, and custom build a radiator that runs full width of core on top of the frame rails.

I love your sarcasm. Haha.
But thats not whats needed.
I havent stretched a panel anywhere.

 

[NC_Pinz]

Kudos to the OP for doing something different. I like the 7.3L in my RV...hell of a stump puller in an EB. I'm living with a survivor 302 with 200k on the odo., stock. You have me beat by just a bit on HP and torque.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, just a bit…
Ha ha! I know that feeling. Big difference even just putting a relatively stock, but more modern 302 in it!

 

[73azbronco]

I love your sarcasm. Haha.
But thats not whats needed.
I havent stretched a panel anywhere.

Not sarcasm, just thinking out loud, It's what I was going to do 10 years ago to get a bigger radiator and walla, original still works best.

 

[duffymahoney]

Thanks for posting! That is one big motor, it's going to be a torque beast when done.

 

[bmc69]

Wish I had the skill and time and money to push a front core out 2 inches,

I had to do that to fit the 1949 V8 in in my '69 EB. Go figure....

 

[mrw]

I had to do that to fit the 1949 V8 in in my '69 EB. Go figure....

A flathead in a EB, you're a sick man . . .