Linking a LUBR

[JSmall]

Probably not the smartest question, but I have to ask I'm in the planning stages for my suspension and I would like be a little different if possible. I planned to go extended radius arms and 3.5" standard lift setup, but then I got to thinking it would be somewhat unique to run an Uncut Bronco on 33's using 4 link rear and 3 link front. Somewhat like the Icon Bronco.

When designing a link suspension for a smaller tire and not much lift, do the same principals apply?

Just spit ballin here so any feedback is welcome.

 

[mortimersnerd]

Yes, the same priciples apply. Download the calculator, do a bunch of reading and get measuring.

 

[JSmall]

Yes, the same priciples apply. Download the calculator, do a bunch of reading and get measuring.

Thanks. I have the calculator, it's the reading comprehension I need to work on

 

[kb6677]

I will look fwd to seeing your numbers when you get through crunching. Are you going to have "room" for proper link separation in you application? The link separation seems to make a significant difference on the last few rigs we have built with 3 and 4 links. Curious to see what you come up with for the tire size you listed. Our last three builds were on rigs with 39-42" tires.
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[JSmall]

I will look fwd to seeing your numbers when you get through crunching. Are you going to have "room" for proper link separation in you application? The link separation seems to make a significant difference on the last few rigs we have built with 3 and 4 links. Curious to see what you come up with for the tire size you listed. Our last three builds were on rigs with 39-42" tires.
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That's exactly what I was looking for. I figured the small tires would come into play. Looking at the Icon Bronco link location, they don't seam to be in the standard placement I've seen on other builds.

In the latest issue of 4Wheel Drive magazine there is a build with 33's and links using trailing arms in the rear. I know I have a lot of reading to do.

 

[BronCowie]

This gives new meaning to 3rd times a charm! ;D

 

[clarrance]

Krawlers Edge stock uncut SEMA Bronco has their newly designed adjustable 4 link rear suspension. It was stock ride height and 235" tires.

 

[JSmall]

Krawlers Edge stock uncut SEMA Bronco has their newly designed adjustable 4 link rear suspension. It was stock ride height and 235" tires.

Do you know where I can find some pics? Thanks

 

[JSmall]

This gives new meaning to 3rd times a charm! ;D

I haven't touched the suspension yet

Just going over my options ;D

 

[clarrance]

This is 4 link the chassis set up on Krawlers Edge tube frame. This chassis went under the stock uncut blue Bronco that Thomas took to SEMA

 

[House]

I have the calculator, it's the reading comprehension I need to work on

Get Sourdojack to drum you up some numbers. That guy is a link master,
just have to multiply his numbers by 10... ;D

 

[Yeller]

If I could find a way to spend the funds to build another, It would be stock height 3 link front 4 link rear on 33's and be a DD. It can be done I've spent enough time laying under them contemplating and studying. My trail truck is stock height on 37's and drives like its on rails on the street, it was even better the 1 time I drove it with 35's on it and with 33's it would be even better

 

[JSmall]

Get Sourdojack to drum you up some numbers. That guy is a link master,
just have to multiply his numbers by 10... ;D

I might just do that...he is an expert at chassis and link design ;D I can give him my numbers and he can test them on a little smaller scale

 

[JSmall]

If I could find a way to spend the funds to build another, It would be stock height 3 link front 4 link rear on 33's and be a DD. It can be done I've spent enough time laying under them contemplating and studying. My trail truck is stock height on 37's and drives like its on rails on the street, it was even better the 1 time I drove it with 35's on it and with 33's it would be even better

I'll front the Bronco and the cash, you come up with the design

 

[Yeller]

I'll front the Bronco and the cash, you come up with the design

so your volunteering to give me a bronco!!!!!!;D my lucky day!!!!!;D







joking asside I could look at doing it about July and have the chassis done by christmas. I do do that on the side, I'm just far away from you and slow. for some reason I get side tracked working too much at work and having to escape some from all of it so I wind up with about 6 hours per week to work on side jobs.:-[

 

[JSmall]

so your volunteering to give me a bronco!!!!!!;D my lucky day!!!!!;D







joking asside I could look at doing it about July and have the chassis done by christmas. I do do that on the side, I'm just far away from you and slow. for some reason I get side tracked working too much at work and having to escape some from all of it so I wind up with about 6 hours per week to work on side jobs.:-[

Your lucky day indeed ;D

The distance would be the tough part. I've been doing some research so I'll see what I can come up with. I've found a few places that make the link brackets so some of the guess work would be eliminated providing the numbers work. I'm hoping something like this Artec bracket will work for the frame side links.

 

[JSmall]

I ordered all the brackets from Artec ;D I still need to find an axle truss for the 9" and figure out what I want to use for the links. Ballistic joints, Jonny joints, heims.... any recommendations for a 90% street driven Bronco?

 

[Yeller]

I've had very good luck with Johnny Joints, mine have been in use since 2006, are still tight. they have about 30,000 total miles on them, a lot of it street and a bunch on dirt, and much of that taking serious abuse, I've been using them on my own and customers rigs since 1999 with great success. They are the best comprise that I have found. Don't do hiems, you will hate it on the street always noisy. As for Balistic, I know guys have been pretty happy with the current product, the earlier versions, not so much.

As for a truss if you have a good aftermarket housing a truss is not needed unless you are really making some high horse power or really play hard, we do not have a truss on the Ultra 4 racer and after 2 years its still straight (trail gear fabricated 9" housing). if your running a stock housing the truss will probably need to be put behind the housing with the tabs welded and boxed to the housing so they will fit under the floor. I've used the brackets you pictured from Artec (and built my own too) and they will work great.

 

[JSmall]

I've had very good luck with Johnny Joints, mine have been in use since 2006, are still tight. they have about 30,000 total miles on them, a lot of it street and a bunch on dirt, and much of that taking serious abuse, I've been using them on my own and customers rigs since 1999 with great success. They are the best comprise that I have found. Don't do hiems, you will hate it on the street always noisy. As for Balistic, I know guys have been pretty happy with the current product, the earlier versions, not so much.

As for a truss if you have a good aftermarket housing a truss is not needed unless you are really making some high horse power or really play hard, we do not have a truss on the Ultra 4 racer and after 2 years its still straight (trail gear fabricated 9" housing). if your running a stock housing the truss will probably need to be put behind the housing with the tabs welded and boxed to the housing so they will fit under the floor. I've used the brackets you pictured from Artec (and built my own too) and they will work great.

Thanks for the great info! I am using my stock housing so I will look for a truss. I like the Artec truss so I might go that route. After doing a little more research and from your recommendation, I plan to use the Johnny Joints.

Do you use left and right joints on each arm so they are easily adjusted or do you use the same threads on each? Wouldn't the left/right threads be reliant on the jam nuts to keep them in place?

2' x .25" DOM lowers and 1.5" x .25" uppers...sound good?

Thanks again!!!

 

[Yeller]

Yes it does. I use all rights for everything. I've had alignment guys cuss me because they can't get it within .010" they can only get to .050" but once you spend the time getting it right it stays that way if you carry spares you only have to carry one. And if you drag them and knock the jam nuts loose they don't get shorter or longer on you. 120 wall tubing, even 1-1/4 OD is plenty sufficient for uppers. I normally use 1-3/4x.120 for uppers so I can use the same 1-1/4 shank Johnny joint on the upper as the lower.

Before you order the artek truss make sure it won't make your uppers too high and hit the floor. I know their 14 bolt one would have pushed my uppers 4" through the bed floor