MY GURL ran yesterday but wont start today

[FORD*DIEHARD]

Yes Sir I do. What should I be testing?

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

**Correction- I just re read what I wrote, I meant when I turn the switch to "on" to the right , before trying to start. I'm not home so I have not tried to see what happens if I turn the key left to "accessory ". Sorry for the confusion

 

[ared77]

"ran yesterday but wont start today"

1 Did it run fine yesterday? Or ran but very rough?
2 Next day it cranks fine but doesn't ever hit at all?

Just want to be sure of your symptoms before I try to help.
Have you made sure gas shoots into the carb if you look down into throat and move the accelerator?

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

(ared77) - this issue happened about a month and a half ago now. Here is the original thread
(1) MY GURL ran yesterday but wont start today | ClassicBroncos.com Forum
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/my-gurl-ran-yesterday-but-wont-start-today.320817/
(it's long but detailed) , I just haven't had a chance to really work on her to try any suggestions yet.

Yes, fuel is shooting into carb, but wont start. That's why I am just trying to back track a little to make sure the new coil is good and hooked up correctly.

 

[4xfun]

A couple of thoughts:

• Make sure that you have a duraspark ignition. Look for the duraspark ignition module. It should be a grey box with two plugs. It is possible that the engine and/or the ignition system may be changed by a Previous Owner. I don't know the duraspark system very well, but I thought that there was supposed to be a horseshoe looking connector on the coil.
• The ends of wire just before the coil are looking a little distressed. It may just be the picture, but you may have wiring issues, That red wire looks rough.
• What is the black wire on the positive wire connected to? Unless there is a tach, there should only be one wire to this post.
• Is the wire posted to the negative post orange or yellow? This may be a replacement wire.

There could also be issue somewhere else in the system. What happens when you turn the switch to start?

I would look at the following items:

• Check all fuses.
• Check the neutral safety switch.
• Put a spark checker light on one of the spark plugs and see if you are getting spark to the plug.
• Check the resistance on the coil wire between the coil and distributor. There should a low reading.. It is also possible that the coil connection is loose.
• Check the resistance of the coil. Look up the value for the coil that you are using and how to test resistance.
• Take safety procedures to prevent it from moving and see if you can get the starter to turn over.

 

[DirtDonk]

And I have a suggestion too.
If you’re still trying to track down the same running issue, don’t start another thread!
You may be testing different things, but if it’s with the hopes of the same result as your other discussion, don’t make us think about it and go back-and-forth.
Maybe have Jon/admin combine these two before this one gets too long.

Thanks

 

[Broncobowsher]

Accessory position? Or run position? Accessory position would be strange. But if you are not accustomed to old vehicles you may not be stating the key position correctly. Quick lesson, just in case you are calling it wrong.
Full left (counterclockwise) position of the ignition switch is accessory. Key won't come out.
Next step right (clockwise) is off. The key can be removed.
Another position to the right is run.
Last position is spring loaded and the start position.

If you are measuring voltage at the coil in the run position, that is correct. If you are measuring it at the accessory position, that is wrong. Either a bad wired accessory or a bad ignition switch.

Are you running points or electronic ignition? If electronic, which one?

For points, the readings at the coil will depend on where the engine is stopped at. As in if the points are open or closed.
If the points are open there will be near battery voltage at both the coil + and the coil - posts. And all the way to the open side of the contacts inside the distributor.
If the points are closed, there will be reduced battery voltage (ballast resistor working) at the coil + post and nearly nothing on the coil - post. The voltage drop is split between the resistor and the coil windings, thus the coil + post is between the two and will read between battery voltage and nothing.

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

Sorry about that everyone if I made things more difficult. I just sent a message to admin to see if he could merge my post.

Broncobousher. I realized I described the key position.

Sonny

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks. There are often good reasons for starting an additional thread, but they usually involve going off on some kind of a tangent.
In this case this will help.
I’ll go back and reread what we’ve already talked about. See if I can come up with anything new.
Tomorrow… In the meantime, back to the top.