Passenger side floor “droop”

[Speedrdr]

Having a difficult time trying to know what to do to get my new floor pan fixed. Looking at the bushing mount where it’s attached to the frame, it appears to be 90* (white arrows) but looking at the black arrow, it’s obviously got a hump in the middle. The best I can tell, it’s the floor support that’s bent. The other question is in relation to the other picture where the floor pan meets the rocker panel. I’m trying to reconcile where to cut or WHAT to cut. As usual, any suggestions, advice, tips, tricks…even critique.


Randy

 

[Oldtimer]

Floor support should be straight (flat) under floor.

Floor Pan Support Crossrail, Front Floor Pans

This New Floor Pan Support Channel for 66-77 Classic Ford Broncos mounts under the center of the front floor pans. This crossrail goes across the full und

tomsoffroad.com

 

[Speedrdr]

Here’s hoping that I can get the one that is bent straightened without having to not only buy a new floor support but have to cut the tunnel and repair. Well, just…rat spit! At least if all that has to be replaced ne, I just happen to have a new tunnel cover.

Randy

 

[jeffncs]

Before diving into that end of the pool…. Some more questions.

Yes - that sections should be horizontal and parallel to the floor. There’s a second reason it may look that way.

What does your rocker panel look like? How do the doors fit!

The body mount of the frame looks to be correct unless there’s an upward bend not translating in the picture. The floor support getting pushed up makes me believe that section of body is sagging to distort the floor pan support upward.

Suggest you check the door openings at the top and bottom to confirm the A and B pillars are parallel and at the correct opensing dimensions.

Find the source of the problem first.

Personally, barring rust on the support, after correcting the reason for the distortion, I’d straighten it and reuse it.

 

[Master Chief]

Went through this issue while restoring mine. The drivers side floor support and doubler were cracked at the mount like yours. Support the body and lift it high enough to remove the mount. Once it is out, jack the outside edge near the rocker until that floor support is straight. Clean the area and weld it. I also reinforced it with a new doubler.

 

[cldonley]

My passenger side was like this and I did what Master Chief suggested, except i cut out bad metal, fabricated a new piece, and welded it in place. If you don't have access to a bender you might go to your local airport and visit the maintenance shop. If they're worth their salt they'll have one and let you use it.

 

[67sport]

I did my passenger side the same way as above. Fabricated my own and grafted it in.
Also, like Jeffncs mentions, confirm that rocker and pillars are solid and in the right spot as you fabricate and rebuild.
It's pretty straight forward once you commit to it.

 

[Speedrdr]

Thanks, @Oldtimer. And that’s what I thought. I have some straightening to do. Hope the driver’s side ain’t that way, but won’t be surprised if it is.

Randy

 

[Speedrdr]

Before diving into that end of the pool…. Some more questions.

Yes - that sections should be horizontal and parallel to the floor. There’s a second reason it may look that way.

Only 2 reasons? That’s a bonus! Lol

What does your rocker panel look like? How do the doors fit!

The doors had even gaps considering the age and the condition of the rockers before I pulled doors off and removed rockers (have new rockers to replace)

The body mount of the frame looks to be correct unless there’s an upward bend not translating in the picture. The floor support getting pushed up makes me believe that section of body is sagging to distort the floor pan support upward.

Square (within 1-2*) support to frame. Being as the front/side metal can be flexed up, I’m guessing there’s a significant sag in the inner fender, wheel tub, etc.

Suggest you check the door openings at the top and bottom to confirm the A and B pillars are parallel and at the correct opensing dimensions.

Doors were decent with gaps and A & B pillars were pretty square to each other.

Find the source of the problem first.

Personally, barring rust on the support, after correcting the reason for the distortion, I’d straighten it and reuse it.

I’m hoping that I can do some additional bracing to correct the outer sag.

Randy

 

[Speedrdr]

Went through this issue while restoring mine. The drivers side floor support and doubler were cracked at the mount like yours. Support the body and lift it high enough to remove the mount. Once it is out, jack the outside edge near the rocker until that floor support is straight. Clean the area and weld it. I also reinforced it with a new doubler.

I can certainly do that. Will finally make use of my MIG welder on what I used to rationalize the purchase.

Randy

 

[jeffncs]

Only 2 reasons? That’s a bonus! Lol

The doors had even gaps considering the age and the condition of the rockers before I pulled doors off and removed rockers (have new rockers to replace)

Square (within 1-2*) support to frame. Being as the front/side metal can be flexed up, I’m guessing there’s a significant sag in the inner fender, wheel tub, etc.

Doors were decent with gaps and A & B pillars were pretty square to each other.

I’m hoping that I can do some additional bracing to correct the outer sag.

Randy

Here’s what I’m hearing from your post…. The floor was out when you replaced the rocker. The doors fit well before starting the work.

Measure the door skim front the back at the top and bottom - my mostly says it’s 39” at top and bottom.

Not measure the top and bottom of the A to B posts. These should be 39 1/4” (again memory).

My theory from 5000miles away (literally) is that the truck sagged under its own weight when the floor was out and the rocker removed.

Edit to add - another easy check - is the body mount the same height as the frame rail? Should be darn close (not the bushing, talking about the top of the mount). If same height, I stuck with my theory. If that metal mount is higher than the frame tail, it’s more likely a body mount issue.

 

[Speedrdr]

My passenger side was like this and I did what Master Chief suggested, except i cut out bad metal, fabricated a new piece, and welded it in place. If you don't have access to a bender you might go to your local airport and visit the maintenance shop. If they're worth their salt they'll have one and let you use it.

I have a friend that has a rather large brake to use (if it will work on heavier stock)

Randy

 

[Speedrdr]

Here’s what I’m hearing from your post…. The floor was out when you replaced the rocker. The doors fit well before starting the work.

Measure the door skim front the back at the top and bottom - my mostly says it’s 39” at top and bottom.

Not measure the top and bottom of the A to B posts. These should be 39 1/4” (again memory).

My theory from 5000miles away (literally) is that the truck sagged under its own weight when the floor was out and the rocker removed.

Rockers were removed right after doors were removed. I only cut the section of floor out after that. Have a before anything was done photo. You may be able to get a better idea of the floor