Pitman Arm Removal

[Toyaddict71]

Hi all! So have leaking seals on steering rack and finding the drop pitman arm impossible to break free. It's been on there at least 20 years. Read all legacy postings I could find but thought I'd try again before I go nuclear aggressive on this thing. I PB blasted it for days before starting. Put a gear puller on it and heated it with a torch. No go. Have had zero luck finding a proper pitman arm puller that will fit it. It's just under 3 inches wide to clear the arm. The closest puller I've found is 2.5". So, thought I'd put it to the experts before I go at the arm and puller with grinders to force fit it. After that, guess I'll just have to cut the arm off completely and not looking forward to that at all. Like I said, its thick! Ideas?

 

[Speedrdr]

Following this as I’ve got the same thing in my near future.

Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, the business end of the pitman arms for our trucks are certainly bulky! Far too big for most of the commonly available models of puller.
But companies like OTC and Lisle have units that fit better. Usually not stocked on the shelves of the stores that sell them, but quickly available.
Sorry i don't have any part numbers.

In a pinch I've used jaw pullers that had extra bolt clamps between the jaws. Without that extra feature, the jaw fingers usually let loose.
But the key to any of these removals, even where you've heated the arm, is impact with a pair of small sledge hammers.

You really don't want to heat things too much, though the biggest concern would be the seal. Which you don't care about at this point anyway because it's leaking. So heating might still be your friend here...
But with a bit of pressure applied to the puller, lay one hammer up one side of the pitman arm, and smack the opposite side with the other hammer. Kind of a hammer-and-dolly(sp?) effect, but with a really big dolly!
You're looking to impart a deformative force into the metal to break the strong interface between the tapered stud and seat. Sometimes only a big impact can do it.
You just have to be careful to not smack it too hard without something on the other side to reflect it and keep you from impacting the gearbox and bushings.
This might have an immediate effect, or it might have to be repeated several times, while you progressively tighten up the puller a little more each time.

And pretty sure this is not called a "rack" because that's used for rack-n-pinion steering gears only. This is a good old recirculating-ball gearbox. So just called a steering gear, gearbox (I think this is what most of the manuals call them), or just steering box.

Paul

 

[Toyaddict71]

Yeah, the business end of the pitman arms for our trucks are certainly bulky! Far too big for most of the commonly available models of puller.
But companies like OTC and Lisle have units that fit better. Usually not stocked on the shelves of the stores that sell them, but quickly available.
Sorry i don't have any part numbers.

In a pinch I've used jaw pullers that had extra bolt clamps between the jaws. Without that extra feature, the jaw fingers usually let loose.
But the key to any of these removals, even where you've heated the arm, is impact with a pair of small sledge hammers.

You really don't want to heat things too much, though the biggest concern would be the seal. Which you don't care about at this point anyway because it's leaking. So heating might still be your friend here...
But with a bit of pressure applied to the puller, lay one hammer up one side of the pitman arm, and smack the opposite side with the other hammer. Kind of a hammer-and-dolly(sp?) effect, but with a really big dolly!
You're looking to impart a deformative force into the metal to break the strong interface between the tapered stud and seat. Sometimes only a big impact can do it.
You just have to be careful to not smack it too hard without something on the other side to reflect it and keep you from impacting the gearbox and bushings.
This might have an immediate effect, or it might have to be repeated several times, while you progressively tighten up the puller a little more each time.

And pretty sure this is not called a "rack" because that's used for rack-n-pinion steering gears only. This is a good old recirculating-ball gearbox. So just called a steering gear, gearbox (I think this is what most of the manuals call them), or just steering box.

Paul

Thanks for the response. I read some earlier postings where you talked about the dueling hammers, so was hoping to hear from you. Should have stated I'm doing this on the truck. Are you able to do this while on truck or only after pulling the steering box (notice new vocabulary)?

 

[DirtDonk]

haha! Yep, quick study!
Yes, on the truck should be even easier. And it is literally the only way I've ever done it.
I have some steering boxes with pitman arms still attached, but have not had to remove them yet.
To my way of thinking, as long as you can get to everything, it's easier on the vehicle because that box is heavy! Luckily the Bronco is heavier, so you don't have to worry about holding anything steady. Except your nerves when you start swinging hammers!

Personally, I still try to do it like dad taught me. That's with both hammers swinging. But in some cases you just don't have room to swing the other hammer, so just have to rely on it being the "dolly" and that impact shockwave being supported by the secondary force.
The good news in doing it this second way is that you don't have to try to time it just right to get them both to hit at the same time.
And because basically you don't have to swing two hammers!

In most cases with steering linkages, you can use a single hammer. Doesn't even have to be a mini-sledge and can be any reasonably heavy hammer. Things like tie-rod ends and ball joints don't necessarily need the double shockwave.
But I like to use this method particularly on steering boxes where using just a single hammer puts a lot more sideways stresses into the more important (read, expensive!) components.
I know these are extremely heavy and strong components. But they also break!

Paul

 

[Toyaddict71]

Finally had a revelation on the dual hammer trick. I was trying to figure how to strike both sides of pitman arm in vertical (up/down) axis in line with the steering shaft. As if knocking it off in the direction I want it to go. I believe you mean strike horizontal on both sides of pitman arm just to break the seal sort of speak. I now read the instructions totally different. Total brain-fart on my part, so thought I'd share just in case someone else is paying attention because vertically is impossible!!!!! tried and failed. I am STILL fighting it without any success unfortunately. Will likely be using nuclear option soon.

 

[DirtDonk]

Correct!
You’re striking sideways. Basically perpendicular to the vertical sector shaft of the box, and in line with the width of the Pitman arm.
Basically, on each side of the splines, trying to distort the arm rather than push it off.

 

[thegreatjustino]

Have had zero luck finding a proper pitman arm puller that will fit it. It's just under 3 inches wide to clear the arm.

I've been told this one will fit an EB PS arm. I have not tried it personally, but was told by a member here it works.

OTC Tools (OTC8150) Conical Pitman Arm Puller - Light Trucks

DetailsFeatures and Benefits:Conical design for strength and secure fit3/4-16 X 4-3/4" forcing screw for powerDesigned to fit Pitman arms on domestic cars and light trucksLarge forcing screw for more powerDesigned to pull stubborn Pitman armsConical Pitman Arm Puller Pitman arm puller designed...

www.tooltopia.com

 

[Toyaddict71]

I've been told this one will fit an EB PS arm. I have not tried it personally, but was told by a member here it works.

http://[URL]https://www.tooltopia.com/OTC-Tools-OTC8150

[/URL]

Great. Thanks for the link!

 

[TheLimeRanger]

OTC 6497 Pitman Arm Puller, Max. Spread 3 1/4 in

this one works. what ive done a few times is loosen the bolts that hold the box to the frame, this will allow it to drop enough for you to get the tool between the pitman arm and the frame . attach the puller, hit it with the impact and you'll be in the promised land

 

[Jonathan_Cole]

Part #57170 from auto zone tool rental. It works great.

 

[ba123]

you could prob also use a slide hammer

 

[pcf_mark]

If you rent the tool or not have someone work the steering at max travel against the steering stop that can help break it free using the linkage. Plus you can whack the side while someone is cranking it to shock it loose. I would not heat it more than a little. You may also be able to move it around to a position where you can get a pipe down through the engine compartment onto the top of the arm and pound it.

 

[Double66]

This I what I use. It worked good on my power steering arm and my manual box arm. Do like Paul said and once you have good pressure on the puller tap the arm with a hammer and it should come right off. I think I got the puller at oreillys years ago for $12.

Performance Tool W80557​

 

[m_m70]

This I what I use. It worked good on my power steering arm and my manual box arm. Do like Paul said and once you have good pressure on the puller tap the arm with a hammer and it should come right off. I think I got the puller at oreillys years ago for $12.

Yup.....have used this for years now!

 

[chuckji]

This I what I use. It worked good on my power steering arm and my manual box arm. Do like Paul said and once you have good pressure on the puller tap the arm with a hammer and it should come right off. I think I got the puller at oreillys years ago for $12.

Performance Tool W80557​

Looks like the one I use as well.

 

[micon]

Hi all! So have leaking seals on steering rack and finding the drop pitman arm impossible to break free. It's been on there at least 20 years. Read all legacy postings I could find but thought I'd try again before I go nuclear aggressive on this thing. I PB blasted it for days before starting. Put a gear puller on it and heated it with a torch. No go. Have had zero luck finding a proper pitman arm puller that will fit it. It's just under 3 inches wide to clear the arm. The closest puller I've found is 2.5". So, thought I'd put it to the experts before I go at the arm and puller with grinders to force fit it. After that, guess I'll just have to cut the arm off completely and not looking forward to that at all. Like I said, its thick! Ideas?

Know this is old post but my truck had a drop pitman but wasn’t lifted.it was all over the road.put a stock arm on and all was well.
could not break it loose so I took it to the tire shop and they swapped it out.

 

[micon]

Hi all! So have leaking seals on steering rack and finding the drop pitman arm impossible to break free. It's been on there at least 20 years. Read all legacy postings I could find but thought I'd try again before I go nuclear aggressive on this thing. I PB blasted it for days before starting. Put a gear puller on it and heated it with a torch. No go. Have had zero luck finding a proper pitman arm puller that will fit it. It's just under 3 inches wide to clear the arm. The closest puller I've found is 2.5". So, thought I'd put it to the experts before I go at the arm and puller with grinders to force fit it. After that, guess I'll just have to cut the arm off completely and not looking forward to that at all. Like I said, its thick! Ideas?

Tire store can pull it with no trouble

 

[Toyaddict71]

So, I fought and fought. Tried every trick I could find online. Eventually just had to bite the bullet and either cut it off or take it to a shop and let them try. I went with later. I MANGLED my box putting so much torque on it. Deformed the opening for the shaft. Destroyed the internal bearings. And the shaft from inside the box looks gouged up and corroded as well. Not sure how if all came about, but the bearings and casing damage is surely from me torquing on it too hard.
So now I need to decide how to proceed and looking for advice. Anyone rebuild the original box with new internals. I found a rebuild kit easy enough, but the shaft needs replacing and no luck there yet. Replace the entire box is other option. The only kit I see that is a one piece bolt in that will accept the shaft, hoses, etc. seems to be the Tom's box. Are there other options to consider? The cheaper boxes (delphi) I find need many adapters, etc. to work and eventually come out to nearly same price as the $895 Tom's unit.
Thanks for any help!!!

 

[Shimmy]

I have the borgeson box and it only needed two adapters to fit my AN lines. easy peasy. if you want to stick with a stock box thats rebuilt you can reach out to Red-Head Steering

https://www.redheadsteeringgears.co...UPnX4RrLmilCDc7aQqUnODbe1iUrasvxoCJGIQAvD_BwE

If you're running 35" tires, i'd consider something beefier than the stock box.