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Removing body mounts question

PDQ

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
241
Im starting on a new body lift but even after videos and many searches here, I'm still a little unclear on the removal process.

So far all the bolts, minus one that sheared off, have come out. So once I lift the body (after separating or loosening steering column, clutch linkage, filler lines, etc) will the mounts come out or may I still need to cut them in some way? I will likely figure it out once I jack the body up, but that won't be for a few weeks and I'm trying to prep my head for what's coming.
I was prepared to Sawzall them and burn rubber as described in most write ups, but the bolts have all come up. Did I just get lucky or is cutting and prying still likely in my future?

Thanks as always
 

daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
What I ended up doing was put the bolts back in a couple of threads then give them a really good hit with a hammer. It helped separate the upper and lower sleeve that was rusted together. One of the rear ones wouldn’t separate so i ended up cutting that with a sawzall.


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Steve83

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
9,005
Loc.
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Put the bolts in from below (if possible) with some pipe dope on the threads to seal them. Then put enough penetrating oil in to go up to the seams between the shells, and let it soak for a few days. With a catch-pan, remove the bolts & install them on top ONLY enough turns to fully-engage the threads in the nuts. Then whack each one with a big hammer (using an old pawn-store impact socket & matching nut as a drift to protect the heads) to separate the shells. An air hammer is even better. Don't let the 3rd ones fall into the frame - they're difficult to get out.
 

Skinnyr1

Jr. Member
Joined
May 25, 2019
Messages
115
You still need to cut.

I recently did all mine. Tried to hammer and/or Sawzall them with slow results.

The best technique I found was to use a utility knife, and cut the rubber out. You have to cut one side completely, and then you can hammer it out. It will look like a rubber C.

Once its out, you can freely and easily sawzall the metal remaining piece out.
 
OP
OP
P

PDQ

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Full Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
241
Ok, that all helps, thank you.
Dumb question just to make sure I'm following the possible knock them loose methods, this would be done with the body jacked up off the mounts correct?
Take bolts out, lift one side of the body and when body is off the frame mounts then try starting the bolt and knocking the old bushings apart. Would that be accurate?

Thank you again
 

Hotrodjohn

Full Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2016
Messages
264
I did a set on my 66 using airchisel with flat blade. Hammered the metal pieces from the bottom under the rubber and it knocked all of them apart pretty quickly and easily. Easier than a sawzall.
 
OP
OP
P

PDQ

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
241
I get it now. I found that there is an upper and a lower piece with one sleeved inside the other. I kept assuming it was just one metal sleeve through the bushing but now I get the problem.

Thanks HRJohn, I'll give that a whack
 

Steve83

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
9,005
Loc.
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
...done with the body jacked up off the mounts correct?
No. The weight of the body preloads the rubber so it doesn't bounce as much, and more of the impact goes to the steel. Knock all of them apart, then remove bolts from one frame rail, jack that side up, swap the upper bushings, lower it, & do the other side.
 
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