Replacing body bushings

[Speedrdr]

After reading through previously posted threads, they offer much detail…except for what I need to know. As I’m disassembling the front sheet metal, I see the front mounts and they appear to be an easy to get out and replace.

My 1st question is do all the existing body mounts need to be at least loose before attempting replacement with new bushings?
Don’t really want to screw up anything by putting pressure on the body.

My 2nd question is do I replace them all once I begin this process??

Appreciate any suggestions y’all might share with me.

Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

I say yes to getting them all loose first. Not only to help lessen the possibility of flexing something that does not appreciate it, but to also let you know that you can indeed remove them all when you need to.
Without fighting them in an epic battle of wills!

Second, no. You do not "need" to replace them all at the same time. And you don't even want to replace them all in the same step. I recommend doing one side of the body at a time unless you have a hoist to lift it, or some other means of support.
Nothing inherently wrong with doing all 8 at the same time. Just a more logistically difficult task for most.
But if you have the facility, do 'em all and done.

Regarding doing them all during the same session, no you don't even need to do that. If you do half of them, or just the front sections, there is nothing that says you can't take a break and come back a week later to do the rest.
But you can't button it all down until you replace them all and torque them to the same compression level.

And speaking of loose... You've presumably already read all about which components to remove/loosen/move out of the way. Correct?

Paul

 

[Speedrdr]

I say yes to getting them all loose first. Not only to help lessen the possibility of flexing something that does not appreciate it, but to also let you know that you can indeed remove them all when you need to.
Without fighting them in an epic battle of wills!

Second, no. You do not "need" to replace them all at the same time. And you don't even want to replace them all in the same step. I recommend doing one side of the body at a time unless you have a hoist to lift it, or some other means of support.
Nothing inherently wrong with doing all 8 at the same time. Just a more logistically difficult task for most.
But if you have the facility, do 'em all and done.

Regarding doing them all during the same session, no you don't even need to do that. If you do half of them, or just the front sections, there is nothing that says you can't take a break and come back a week later to do the rest.
But you can't button it all down until you replace them all and torque them to the same compression level.

And speaking of loose... You've presumably already read all about which components to remove/loosen/move out of the way. Correct?

Paul

Well, I have both of the ones behind the seats loose and the D/S rear bed bolt loose. I’m replacing fenders, inner fenders and core support (thanks to WH) so will be able to get to the front mounts. The floor pans are in the open.
Is there something other than this you can tell me?

Randy

 

[bronkenn]

Hide the women and children. Can get pretty frustrating getting those mounts off, unless you're lucky.

 

[gmduncan]

They can be challenging if they're rusted, but that's par for the course when dealing with rusted parts. PB Blast, Penetrating Oil or an old trick my Dad showed me, soak them with kerosene.

 

[Timmy390]

Hide the women and children. Can get pretty frustrating getting those mounts off, unless you're lucky.

More frustrating if you drop the new nut down in to the frame. There is a hold in the frame below the ones behind the seats. Place tape over the hole cause you will drop a nut and it will be part of the truck forever.

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

Before you lift either side, unbolt the radiator fan shroud and lay it on the fan.
You might want to disconnect the clutch linkage (if applicable), but that’s usually not a big deal because you’re only lifting it a quarter or half an inch to get the old ones out and the new ones in.
Shift linkages should be OK too, but if you have an automatic, I would disconnect the shift lever, or at least put the transmission in neutral so it can move around.

 

[cldonley]

Make sure you take a close look at the frame under the bushings. Many are rusty. I repaired mine by welding in a large flat washer of the appropriate size (found on Amazon) after cleaning/removing/treating the rust.

 

[Speedrdr]

Hide the women and children. Can get pretty frustrating getting those mounts off, unless you're lucky.

Well, my luck has been mixed as of lately. Lol

 

[Speedrdr]

Before you lift either side, unbolt the radiator fan shroud and lay it on the fan.
You might want to disconnect the clutch linkage (if applicable), but that’s usually not a big deal because you’re only lifting it a quarter or half an inch to get the old ones out and the new ones in.
Shift linkages should be OK too, but if you have an automatic, I would disconnect the shift lever, or at least put the transmission in neutral so it can move around.

Not much left on the front end to be in the way now. My shop is beginning to look like a chop shop.

 

[ol gray mare]

I was able to get a sawzall on the bolts I couldn't break loose.

 

[BGBronco]

It was the worst, best thing I did to my bronco. I started out with penetrating oil but It was a 100% requirement to have a metal cutter (and lots of blades). After the hell it was, everything was nice a leveled out and wish I would have done it sooner.

 

[Steve83]

...do all the existing body mounts need to be at least loose before attempting replacement with new bushings?
Don’t really want to screw up anything by putting pressure on the body.

Why are you replacing them? Presumably because they're collapsed, which makes them loose already. So not worth worrying about.

...do I replace them all once I begin this process??

Presumably, they're all in the same (poor) condition. Why would you NOT replace them all?

 

[DirtDonk]

They weren’t saying replacing only select individual ones. Their intention was to replace them all.
They were just asking if it should be done all 8 at the same time, or in some other order.

 

[Speedrdr]

: Why are you replacing them? Presumably because they're collapsed, which makes them loose already. So not worth worrying about.

Presumably, they're all in the same (poor) condition. Why would you NOT replace them all?

They are all crap, or worse. No maintenance (PO) as far as I can tell. Example in point: on the control arms, there are no, as in zero, bushings on the skinny end. And they were DRIVING on the highway like that.
I don’t generally buy parts to replace just to spend $$$. I’ve got something in the neighborhood of $4,500 of EB parts from WH to make this ‘thing’ as it is now into something safe that I’ll let my wife drive.

So, yes, the plan is to replace every body mount and every other crappy part that comes up. This pics show an abject failure to maintain (PO) the vehicle.

Randy

 

[Speedrdr]

I’m spraying AeroKroil on the body bolts every time I walk by. Considering purchasing stock in that company. Lol

Randy

 

[Steve83]

Wow. That LHF frame horn.

(click this text)

 

[Speedrdr]

Wow. That LHF frame horn.

(click this text)

@Steve83, you don’t know the half of it! To quote my wife, “Are you certain this vehicle CAN be fixed?” Gives me the warm fuzzies from her confidence in my skills. Lol
I have a heap of work to do, but I am retired so time is the commodity I have the most of.
Yeah, 2 owners before me was in the Delta and beat this EB nearly to its grave from abuse. Don’t know if 1) a replacement for the D/S ‘frame horn’ exists and/or 2) will there be enough original frame to attach to.
Fortunately, I have 90% of the parts I need and can piece the rest of them together as needed.

Randy

 

[cldonley]

Looks a lot like mine did after 30+ years running around on the PO's ranch with no tags or inspection required.