Ruffstuff 1 ton steering tie rod roll

[MrT]

I bought the 1 ton Y link steering kit from Ruffstuff. A friend had it and had a problem with tie rod roll so he eventually removed and went to crossover style steering. That was on a Cherokee.
Anybody running have a problem with tie rod roll(dead spot in steering) any idea why some don't have the problem, some are fixed with "the cure" from Ruffstuff and some seam unfixable? The cure would only work for a few weeks on my friends Cherokee.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, it's a known issue with that type of setup. Sometimes it's a minor thing, sometimes it's pretty bad. As the tie-rods wear and get looser, the roll gets worser...%)

RuffStuff actually has a part they call "The Cure" that is designed to help reduce this roll. It's not a cure-all, but it does help as many have found out over the last few years since it's been available.
I don't have a link, but you can find it on their site. Surprised they don't just try to sell you one at the same time, since it's always going to have some roll. We should suggest that to them as an automatic thing.

The reason is the angle. If you look at the stock linkage on any Bronco or F100/150 from '66 up to '79 (except for '76 and '77) you'll see that the draglink meets the tie-rod at about a 60° angle instead of straight like yours is.
This angle lets the steering box push and pull with much less tendency to rotate.

Check out The Cure before you give up on this style of steering. Lots of users are overall very happy with them. But if it just gets out of hand then whenever you're ready to replace it go with one of the systems that mimics the factory angle. We have this one: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_Drag_Link_3way_Adjustable_6675yr/Custom_tie_rods which is beefier than stock, but mimics the angles and lengths of stock.
Just don't look at our draglink-only photo, since it was angled wrong for the picture!%):-[

Paul

 

[MrT]

I could switch the tre's for heims now before I cut the tubing and go crossover style. I have run heims in the past with no issues but I prefer the tre's. I mentioned the cure in my post and I agree it should just come with the kit. I may call and see if I can switch out the ends.

 

[ransil]

how about this

https://www.emfrodends.com/products/freddilink-steering-adapter-bung

 

[DirtDonk]

I have run heims in the past with no issues but I prefer the tre's.

Me too. If your previous system had the drag link run all the way over to the knuckle, then that's why there was no rotation.
Even though the ends themselves are free to rotate within their limited space, there is no twisting motion imparted when they're not mounted directly to the tie-rod.
But then getting the draglink and trackbar to the same lengths becomes even harder.

I suppose you could keep your main tie-rod with it's tie-rod ends, then add just a new draglink with spherical rod ends to a new high mounted steering arm. But that's more trouble and more money. Where the spherical rod end style you're talking about can just continue to use the stock knuckles/steering arms.

how about this
https://www.emfrodends.com/products/freddilink-steering-adapter-bung

Interesting. Never saw that before. Didn't look further or click on the image, but is there a shot of the other side? Is it recessed just like the side in view?
Wonder what fits in the notch? Or is that just for a bolt head, and the other side is flat?

Paul

 

[MrT]

Ruffstuff said I could swap the tre's for heims. I will probably go this route so I don't have to worry about it. I will probably get a track bar kit from them with the adjustable brackets. I am starting from scratch there so hopefully I can get them parrallel.

 

[DirtDonk]

Parallel won't be a problem. It's just that the lengths are important too, in order for everything to travel in the same arc.
Mismatched lengths is not the big problem that mismatched angles are, but it's still a thing. Lots or rigs running around that way with happy owners. Including your old it sounds like.

Paul

 

[MrT]

The length will be pretty far off (6" or so)but I think between these 2 options I will risk the difference in the arc they travel causing a issue over the tre roll. If I am unhappy with it I could weld tabs on the tie rod going back to y link but I have read it's better that way than the tre being in front. I am open to other ideas even keeping what I have.