Steering wobble

[EODMike]

Listen to reamer and maybe fiddle with your toe-in settings, but certainly verify your other settings as well. Never hurts to know what you're dealing with.
But you might also now be feeling that vague steering feel that comes to some Broncos (but apparently not all) when you have a borderline lift height (in your case 2.5") but have not added any steering corrective factors yet. Such as a trackbar drop bracket and dropped pitman arm.
The old school (back when nobody cared about such things) feeling was that you did not need those until you were at 3" of lift or above. Well, you're pretty darn close to that now!
When I look at your pics (yes, they help a great deal!) I see "decent" angles, but angles that I feel are nevertheless still too steep.

So while you might still fiddle with other stuff, if you want the most linear feeling to your steering out on the road, you would do well to add the drops (both of them, and NOT one or the other) to get your angles back to near stock.
As said, the old school feel was that it was just a truck and who cares how it handles on the street. It's an off-roader after all...
I figure that at only 1-2 inches of lift you can still get away without them. But at 2.5 and above you might as well do it.

See how easy it is for me to spend more of your money!?%)

Paul

Thanks Paul. I just put both of those brackets on order with y'all. Mike

 

[DirtDonk]

Glad to help Mike. And thanks, appreciate the business!

 

[EODMike]

Alright guys, here is a pic of the drop bracket for the Adj Drag Bar and the drop Pitman arm installed. Anything I need to look at before going out on the road? Is the steering shock supposed to be horizontal? Best I can tell all is lined up straight, going to try and take it to get alignment next week. Thank you for all your help.

Mike

 

[DirtDonk]

I think the tie-rod/drag-link interface can be rotated up just a little more still, but it's pretty close.
Compare the difference in height between the pivot points of the lower drag-link end (approx. the center of the ball) to the lower trackbar mount. Then compare the same distance between the upper drag-link end and the upper trackbar pivot point/bolt.
You can compare each one from a common point, which in this case is the ground. Makes measuring and comparing simpler.

It looks from here like the lower mounts are just a tiny bit farther apart than the upper mounts are. Rotating the tie-rod a bit more will close this distance, as well as make the mounting angle better. Also, just by a little bit.

The stabilizer shocks are horizontal from the factory, but adding the dropped pitman arm changes that relationship. The easiest thing to do is leave it as it is, since the shock should work just fine this way. If it's made to work on it's side, it can work a little off-kilter.
But the better looking solution would be to make a spacer and drop the upper mount down slightly to give it that more natural level look. Don't have to go all the way, but closer is better.

Paul

 

[EODMike]

I think the tie-rod/drag-link interface can be rotated up just a little more still, but it's pretty close.
Compare the difference in height between the pivot points of the lower drag-link end (approx. the center of the ball) to the lower trackbar mount. Then compare the same distance between the upper drag-link end and the upper trackbar pivot point/bolt.
You can compare each one from a common point, which in this case is the ground. Makes measuring and comparing simpler.

It looks from here like the lower mounts are just a tiny bit farther apart than the upper mounts are. Rotating the tie-rod a bit more will close this distance, as well as make the mounting angle better. Also, just by a little bit.

The stabilizer shocks are horizontal from the factory, but adding the dropped pitman arm changes that relationship. The easiest thing to do is leave it as it is, since the shock should work just fine this way. If it's made to work on it's side, it can work a little off-kilter.
But the better looking solution would be to make a spacer and drop the upper mount down slightly to give it that more natural level look. Don't have to go all the way, but closer is better.

Paul

Thanks Paul!

 

[Pa PITT]

... I didn't read any of the answers ... because I've been through .
... If nothing else helps . Pinch you front toe end In to about a 1/2 in narrow in the front than the back .
.. Now this will wear you tires . But It fixed one of mine .
IF YOU TOE END is about 1/4 inch then after going to 1/2 ... spread it back out to say 3/8. play with it .
...............
......... iT'S BEEN A LONG TIME SINCE i TOLD HOW TO DO a poor mans front end alignment . You can do it at home on a good flat concrete drive.
....... Ask me if you need to alignment it .

 

[bigmuddy]

Alright guys, here is a pic of the drop bracket for the Adj Drag Bar and the drop Pitman arm installed. Anything I need to look at before going out on the road? Is the steering shock supposed to be horizontal? Best I can tell all is lined up straight, going to try and take it to get alignment next week. Thank you for all your help.

Mike

One thing that I think helps quite a bit even with a 2.5" lift (I have the same)
Is to run steering linkage that has a longer drag link which runs from the pitman arm down to the steering linkage (tire to tire) Yours is stock and might make it feel a bit quirky even with a 2.5" lift. I would recommend replacing it when you get the time or cash to an aftermarket version. I like the 1-ton chevy version which is what I run, but some of the others that use Spherical rod ends are OK too.

There were two versions used on the early bronco's, the early one which you have was better and is called the T style. The newer 76-77 was the Y steering linkage and really creates some issues with lifts.

Basically the aftermarket versions will push your drag link out further toward the passenger tire. I would include a picture but mine is out getting paint.

 

[EB70]

I have been going through this. I had almost no caster with the 7degree bushings. So....I bit the bullet and cut and turned it. Way, way better. Decent driveline angles etc. There is still a bit of a floating feeling when transitioning from a turn to a straight. My geometry is ok on the DL and TB.

What I discovered when I got someone to turn the steering wheel was that I had a bad upper track bar bushing.

It is such a rookie mistake. But the lift and all bushings are newer and lower mileage so I didn't think it would be the problem. But I have also been wrestling this thing down the hwy for long enough that the additional stress took it out I think. It did not drive good before this, so I just didn't drive it.

More to come. I would say though that the cut and turn made the most difference. Not perfect, but way, way better.

 

[EODMike]

Hey guys, I hate to keep reviving this post, but I have maybe another issue that ties into it. So after putting on the drop pitman arm and Track bar mount, I got an alignment on my Bronco and the wobble seems to have lessened considerably at highway speed. What I have noticed though is my turning radius going to the left has increased to where I would have to turn and then back up to realign going into a parking space (that's the best example I could think of) but going right it doesn't seem to have changed. Is there maybe something hitting when I turn left? I haven't been able to check it out yet, but could I put it up on jack stands and turn it or something to see? I guess that would be the best way to simulate turning. I was thinking maybe a spacer for the wheels (15s with 33", not sure backspacing but they have been on it since as long as I have known this truck my brother had it for over 20 years before I got it). As always, thank you for any input.

Mike

 

[DirtDonk]

I don't think you're hitting anything with the tires. If you were you would know about it instantly as the noise they can make even rubbing on the smooth edge of a radius arm is pretty spectacular.
It's possible to Pitman arm was installed while the steering box was off-center. It's also possible that the drop track bar bracket has push the axle to the right farther than it should have. I wouldn't expect the latter to limit your steering as noticeable as you are experiencing though. But it's not uncommon for the Pitman arm to be on wrong.

If the axle isn't noticeably pushed to the passenger side, then the first thing I would do would be to remove the Pitman arm, reverify the steering box is on-center, reinstall the Pitman arm pointed straight back, and then adjust the drag link to fit. With the steering wheel straight of course.
This is an adjustable drag like that we're talking about here, correct?

 

[EODMike]

I don't think you're hitting anything with the tires. If you were you would know about it instantly as the noise they can make even rubbing on the smooth edge of a radius arm is pretty spectacular.
It's possible to Pitman arm was installed while the steering box was off-center. It's also possible that the drop track bar bracket has push the axle to the right farther than it should have. I wouldn't expect the latter to limit your steering as noticeable as you are experiencing though. But it's not uncommon for the Pitman arm to be on wrong.

If the axle isn't noticeably pushed to the passenger side, then the first thing I would do would be to remove the Pitman arm, reverify the steering box is on-center, reinstall the Pitman arm pointed straight back, and then adjust the drag link to fit. With the steering wheel straight of course.
This is an adjustable drag like that we're talking about here, correct?

Paul,

When I removed the old pitman arm, we turned the steering wheel all the way right, then left, then returned it to what I best thought was "center" before installing the new pitman arm. Does this seem to be the best method for determining if the steering box was centered or is there a more accurate method? Yes sir, it is an adjustable drag bar. The axle doesn't seem to be pushed to the right, but I will verify and adjust if needed. Thanks for your continued support.

Mike

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes that's the standard operating procedure for getting the box on center. However there may be a more accurate method that some of the gearbox experts can describe to us.