Tomorrow I’m also going to buy the tool for the axle nut so I can properly do that, rather than using the old hammer and punch guessing method for bearing preload.
Haha! Noooo, say it ain't sooooo!!!!;D
Definitely helps to have the big socket. Plenty of pros have tried, but you'll never get the proper torques with a hammer, as you guessed.
After I tighten the first not up to 50 pounds, I understand I back it off a quarter turn and re-tighten.
Negative.
You tighten to 50lbs while rotating the hub, then back off the 1/4 turn. Then leave it!
It's super loose at this point, but will tighten up with the final torque of the outer locking nut.
Just remember, there is NO PRELOAD on the bearing. No such thing in this case, as it's all about free-play. It's very minimal free-play, but it's still free-play.
The specification is .001" to .010" with somewhere at the lower end to middle being more desirable.
What is the final torque on the first nut?
As described, there is no final torque for the inner adjusting nut. Just leave it backed off 1/4 turn.
It's not a bad practice to torque twice to that 50lbs while rotating, but the final adjustment on the inner nut is the 1/4 turn back-off.
Then what is the proper torque for the second nut after the washer?
After you line up a hole in the washer with the pin on the inner nut, the outer lock nut gets torqued to 100lbs.
The range of specifications is staggering, as I've seen them recommended in the books at anything between 50lbs and 200lbs! Online I've even seen YouTubers go as low as 35lbs. But never seen that in a Ford book myself. The lowest I remember in a Ford book was 75lbs I think. And that's what I would use as a minimum, but I usually go to 100 nowadays.
Once you've achieved that 75lbs or more, you will be amazed at how tight the bearing clearance has been pulled up. From loosey-goosey with the nut backed off 1/4 turn, to minimal clearance. All just from torquing the outer lock nut.
So, to re-re-reiterate...
1. Inner adjusting nut installed with small pin facing outward, towards you. Torque to 50lbs while spinning the hub/rotor/wheel. This sets the races and ensures that grease in the bearings is squeezed out of the rollers so as to not skew the later readings.
2. Back off 90° or 1/4 turn. Ignore how loose the clearance is for the moment.
3. Install the locking ring so that one of the holes fits CLEANLY over the pin. If the two do not line up perfectly you can flip the ring over (holes are offset from the tang) and try again. If it still does not line up, you can turn the nut slightly so that it does.
4. Install outer locking nut to between 75 and 125 pounds.
5. If possible, set up a jig with a dial-indicator to check bearing clearance/free-play. Not everyone has the tools to do this of course, but if you do it's worth checking so that you can verify the condition of all parts. If they're in good shape your clearance will be between 1 and 10 thousandths of an inch.
If you have experienced and "calibrated" hands, you can actually tell down to probably 5 or 6 thousandths. Or even tighter if you're really good!
Bottom line is it's tight, but still has clearance with zero preload.
Good luck.
Paul
