The never ending onion...

[Double66]

Like most of the other threads I have read, a simple replacing the floors in the roadster has turned into an onion with every layer showing another surprise. What started out as inner rockers and floor support replacement has became a question of where to stop. The kick panel behind the inner rocker is rusted where they overlap. The lower part of the door posts are rusted up a few inches then become solid enough to patch. I'm thinking about cutting out a square on the kick panels where it's rusted then patching a piece in and then make a piece from the pillar to the back side of the new piece for more support. With just having door inserts I really don't want to replace the kick panel because of that one area or door post unless it's absolutely necessary. I'm open to other ideas if anyone has ran across this same issue and came up with an awesome idea.

 

[Speedrdr]

I feel your pain! Mine started out to be a replace rockers, replace front fenders. This has turned into also replacing both front floor pans, inner fenders, rear corners (both), core support, steering rods… it’s getting closer to being a frame off resto.

Randy

 

[mudstud]

If I were to do mine over again, I would just buy one of the new tubs. I found out that I was not a body man. By the time I paid someone to replace all the panels it would have been as cheap and faster.

 

[Double66]

It's definately a learning curve compared to the mechanical side of the build. I measured, took pictures, and prepped quite a bit. The welder is dialed in perfect now.

 

[Double66]

After a snowed in weekend and too much thinking, I decided to replace both kick panels and door posts. I figure might as well since I'm this far into it. Question for the 66 owners, is this upper part of the passenger side kick panel an early production thing they did with the extra patch piece? My thought was to replicate it on the new kick panel to keep the look.

 

[Speedrdr]

The welder is dialed in perfect now.

I had my MIG dialed in…forgot to check the gas bottle. now I’ve got a bunch of rework to do. Nobody to blame but me and get it done right. The 2nd time around. Lol

Randy

 

[Double66]

I had my MIG dialed in…forgot to check the gas bottle. now I’ve got a bunch of rework to do. Nobody to blame but me and get it done right. The 2nd time around. Lol

Randy

I actually prefer .030" wire over the recommended .024" on the body panels. Has anyone ever tried an actual spot weld machine with good results? I've had really good results plug welding the drilled 5/16" holes and the 3/8" holes left from the spot weld removal tool.

 

[Speedrdr]

I actually prefer .030" wire over the recommended .024" on the body panels. Has anyone ever tried an actual spot weld machine with good results? I've had really good results plug welding the drilled 5/16" holes and the 3/8" holes left from the spot weld removal tool.

Unfortunately, the only welder my cardiologist will clear me to use is a wire welder. No stick, no TIG, no spot welding. Sucks having the restrictions that come with a pacemaker. I use .035 wire as it seems like I have better control of the weld depth. May be my imagination but…

Randy