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The what did I get myself into 1971 Restomod - BUILD THREAD

Dbteak

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Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
438
One of the first things I need to tackle on this thing is to get the Engine tuned so it will pass emissions here in Nevada. If it was a 68 instead of a 69, I wouldn't have to smog it.

68 was the first year they started testing. If you just want to get it on the road just do a classic car plate. It is good for 5000 miles a year. I think they got rid of the smog requirement.

http://dmvnv.com/platesclassic.htm#How

When the classic plates started the first time you needed to get a smog done. I have a mustang with a similar motor that did not want to pass. I took it to Intrepid Motorsports and they spent an hour getting it to pass. That was 20 years ago. My next option was to install some catalytic converters on the exhaust.
 

DirtDonk

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Messages
47,737
I'm running cats on mine because even with EFI the exhaust smelled like crap.
I had planned to do it with my '71 whenever I get the engine in anyway, but when I first met up with Doug after he'd built the Explorer engine and couldn't breathe next to the window(!) I mentioned it. He got a cat for his then (now mine) and it made a very noticeable difference.
I think it kind of surprised both of us with that Explorer engine. Stock right down to the EGR, and just missing the cat.

Paul
 
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Audifan

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Nov 25, 2018
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I did the Amp steps and they totally disappear when retracted.

Thats what I want. You did yours before the Amp kits came out right?

Not surprising to see different results, since up until just recently every install was pretty much a custom. Done either by the owner, a local shop, or some kit put together by some third party.

Who's kit will you be using? I've seen BCB and Northeast Classic. Don't know if they're the same, or using different brackets? Looks pretty slick though.
Isn't ICON doing a set as well?

Can't wait to see them on your rig.

Paul

Me either, it will be one of the first things we do. I can't stand the nerf bars.

I've been looking at the BC kit, but I also emailed Amp Research directly and their support guy says they have a set for the bronco I can get direct from them...trying to get more clarity on it, but not expecting an answer till after the holidays.

68 was the first year they started testing. If you just want to get it on the road just do a classic car plate. It is good for 5000 miles a year. I think they got rid of the smog requirement.

http://dmvnv.com/platesclassic.htm#How

When the classic plates started the first time you needed to get a smog done. I have a mustang with a similar motor that did not want to pass. I took it to Intrepid Motorsports and they spent an hour getting it to pass. That was 20 years ago. My next option was to install some catalytic converters on the exhaust.

I learned about the classic plates after I already did the smog...since it failed, I now have to wait 90 days for the failed smog to fall off if I want to get classic plates.

Also, I will be seriously sad if I put less than 5k miles a year on it :)
 
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Audifan

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Nov 25, 2018
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Sidetracked before we even started

This weekend and the first half of xmas eve was supposed to be all about diving into the Brono, taking inventory and mapping out todo lists.

But we got side tracked when the inch and a quarter plywood we've been waiting on for a few weeks finally showed up.

So, instead of working on the bronco... it got to sit outside while we worked on blocking and sheeting my mezzanine in the new garage.

And of course mr. murphy decided to show up part way through with a random rainstorm...while the Bronco was outside...with no top. It was a fun scramble to get it tarped up in the wind and rain.

Good news is that 95% of the heavy work on the mezzanine is done now. Still a lot to do, but it will go much faster now AND all the garage floor space is now usable.

Maybe next weekend we can get back to the Bronco.
 

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DirtDonk

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...I've been looking at the BC kit, but I also emailed Amp Research directly and their support guy says they have a set for the bronco I can get direct from them...trying to get more clarity on it, but not expecting an answer till after the holidays.

Glad you called. I wonder if their kit is the one the others are selling?
I did not see it on their site the last time I looked, but with most companies the website is sorely behind the times.
I checked because I thought by now with all the hoopla with Broncos and the number of people putting them on themselves, they'd eventually come to do one themselves.

Let us know what they say.

Paul
 
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Audifan

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If you don't have to report the mileage to the NV DMV, who is going to know? %)

I was under the impression that I do have to report it/have it checked....but if not...well that would be...well...um...handy.
 

Dbteak

Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2006
Messages
438
I was under the impression that I do have to report it/have it checked....but if not...well that would be...well...um...handy.

You have to fill out and sign a paper and send it in with the renewal. Not sure they would ever check though. They have never checked my mustang since they started the program. The top car registered as a classic is a honda civic and cheby pick ups. You think they are driving less than 5000 miles. I would bet not.
 

DirtDonk

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Not worth it. You only have to be checked once to feel the burn.
Maybe it's at a safety inspection (if you do that kind of thing?), or at the time of sale, or whenever. Or when changing insurance companies perhaps?

You never know when someone may just make you that offer you can't refuse, and all that comes back to haunt you.
Better than that, would be the hassle of throwing in a stock engine for the test and the next weekend taking it back out.
Hate even just changing carburetors for that purpose, but it's better than being limited to 5000 miles, or getting caught not doing 5000 miles!

But really, this is all getting ahead of ourselves. Maybe you'll be able to make it pass smog and all this will be moot.
Crossing fingers!

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Sorry for the extra upcoming ramble, but as you know I'm full of it, uh, I mean opinions.
So here's another one...

Crazy to think that Nevada has stricter emission rules than California!...

I don't think Nevada is in any danger of going all regulation-happy on people just yet. Eventually maybe, but it's a slow process.
But I do think they needed it just as badly as we did (or they would not have done it I'm sure) due to circumstances.
I think in this case it's all about the wicked combination of geography, population concentration, and population growth. Just like here...
Like CA, NV is all about just two major metro areas. In their case it's Reno and Vegas and their surrounding areas. Remember when Sparks and especially Henderson were separate cities? How far away from Las Vegas downtown was Henderson just 20 years ago? What, like fifteen miles? And now it's one big city?
Heck, if it wasn't for Camp Pendleton, Los Angeles and San Diego would be one big city!

If you look at it from a climate standpoint, Reno especially is in it's own little valley so to speak. Well, a big valley, but it's surrounded by mountains that just love to keep things inside. Remember what is produced in town, stays in town. Even with the "three o'clock hurricane" that rolls through town during the season, the air would be pretty nasty sometimes.
I think it was only natural that at some point everybody realized that something had to change to make it better. Probably the same conditions exist in Vegas. I'm not sure that some of the CA smog isn't blown into NV under the right conditions too, so keeping it down here, can sometimes keep it down there. Sharing is good, but not everything.
Or maybe the regulationeering is just because all the CA transplants with asthma moved to the big cities first, coughed up some blood and then moved on to Carson City next!%)

I guess we'll see if it is a bad thing or a good thing in the long run, but I think it's already proving out.
Remember too (and this is just an opinion), that without CA emissions standards having started the roll in that direction back in the sixties and being such a big market for the manufacturers that they couldn't just stop selling, and then of course the heavy Japanese competition a few years later, we'd probably never have what is commonplace today. Too-safe-by-far cars, trucks that think they're Cadillacs and Lincolns, and fuel-injected, electronic engine controls that can supply our need for 400-800 horsepower engines that are streetable, covered under the factory warranty, reliable, and run on pump gas. All while producing 90% less pollution and some even getting over 30 miles per gallon too!
It might have taken 20 years to get on the roll we're on today, but it seems a pretty linear progression that certain regulations took us.

I'd actually call that progress, rather than demon-regulation.
Of course too, a car in '66 could cost $2000 brand new and the majority of folks could afford at least one. Same car now is $35k and up and I still laugh out loud when I see a pickup truck going for $80,000.00 on the dealer's lots!
Maybe that's not the kind of progress that we'd wanted. But a lot of people can still afford them, so I guess it's not bad for everyone.
Remember the fight against air bags and third brake lights? I may not want to do a face plant into a super sonic traveling explosion from my steering wheel, but I think it's better than the face plant into the steering wheel in most cases. And I absolutely love third brake lights!!!

Just saying that some really good stuff has come out of all the angst and hand-wringing about how regulation is going to kill the auto industry, make cars too expensive for mortal man, and make all the CEO's go broke making sure their workers don't go hungry.
Well OK, so maybe some of it was actually true...:mad:

Paul
 
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Audifan

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But really, this is all getting ahead of ourselves. Maybe you'll be able to make it pass smog and all this will be moot.
Crossing fingers!

Paul

Agreed. I've been recommended a mustang specialty shop here in Reno, by several people I know as well as a local CB member. I'll be taking it down to them after the Holidays. They say they are very familiar with this engine type and set up, so we'll see.

http://rdwautomotive.com/
 

DirtDonk

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Good. Maybe they can hide the E303's nasty side with some tuning.

Paul
 

sprdv1

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Agreed. I've been recommended a mustang specialty shop here in Reno, by several people I know as well as a local CB member. I'll be taking it down to them after the Holidays. They say they are very familiar with this engine type and set up, so we'll see.

http://rdwautomotive.com/

Glad to hear it... Good luck
 
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Audifan

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Decided a few of my lights weren't working so I decided to upgrade everything to LED since I had to replace bulbs anyway.

Got reverse light LED from amazon and Map Light (wiper light), side marker and license plate light from Woody's on ebay

And of course, swapping out these bulbs wasn't as straight forward as it should have been and has created a new punch list of things to figure out.

1. Reverse lights don't come on in reverse...thought it was a bad bulb, but nope.

2. PO apparently siliconed the side marker lights and screws into place, so my initial effort to remove the lenses failed. Have to figure out how to get the screws out an pry off the lens without breaking them.

3. Drivers side rear marker light does not light up now.

4. Drivers side rear brake light is lit but does not flash/get brighter when brake is pressed...passenger side works fine.

So these are the next rabbit holes I get to dive into.
 

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Audifan

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Just put the LED bulb in the license plate socket, since it didn't have one...thinking that was all thats needed.

However, nope...this socket/bulb isn't lighting up either...so this is now on the list.

It also looks like the PO tapped into the license plate socket wires to splice in the trailer hitch wiring harness...which could be part of the issue...and if it's not its still ugly and I need to find a way to clean those wires up.
 

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904Bronco

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You have now joined the Bronco club... Undoing PO's shoddy workmanship.
Sorry, but all of us here have been through it.
At least you haven't found any Wire nuts or Scotch-locks yet.

Use a test light or better a VOM, to make sure that you are getting the correct voltage and have good grounds
 
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Audifan

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You have now joined the Bronco club... Undoing PO's shoddy workmanship.
Sorry, but all of us here have been through it.
At least you haven't found any Wire nuts or Scotch-locks yet.

Use a test light or better a VOM, to make sure that you are getting the correct voltage and have good grounds

Yeah, I was kind of expecting it, but still hoping for it to all be working.

Regarding the correct voltage...is there a book or guide I should buy that has all that info? be awesome to have a printed reference guide in the garage.
 
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Audifan

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LOL. I guess I knew that the whole system was 12v. But after reading so many build threads, I was under the impression that some wiring drew/needed more power than others...the term is escaping me ohms maybe...but different lights, gauges ect all had different power draw.
 

DirtDonk

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Battery voltage, whatever that is at the moment, is what you'd like to see at any point in most of the circuits.
Can be more or less than 12.6v depending on the battery's charge at that moment, all the way to 14.2-14.8 volts when the engine is running and the alternator charging.
Pays to measure the battery first, whenever testing wiring, so you know what is acceptable at the other end.

There are only two common circuits on an EB that get reduced voltage on purpose. One is the original ignition coil (not all aftermarket ignitions want reduced voltage) and the other is the instrument cluster.
The instruments get reduced voltage after the Instrument Voltage Regulator, but the system right up to the point it reaches the regulator is still 12v right to the back of the instrument cluster.

What you don't want to see along all the rest of the wiring are voltage drops. This means that the wires, or their connectors are no longer capable of passing all the current/amperage through them.

In a perfect world you'd want to see "battery voltage" to the furthest reaches, all the way back to the tail lights. Not always feasible on old wiring, but one can still hope.
A tiny bit of loss is an acceptable (if not really desirable) result of longer, undersized wiring and switches and connectors.

Paul
 
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