Things to do before body goes on

[Torkman66]

Just about ready to put the body on for the last time ( been on and off several times checking fitment). Before it goes on, several things are much easier to do standing over frame and drivetrain.
- Finalize all fuel and brake lines including the vent and charcoal runs. I have an aux tank and it’s easy to just run the vent from the aux into one of the two vents on the main and then run the second out on main to a charcoal can. I make my own charcoal cans for about 5 bucks and they work great.
- run the kick down cable to the auto tranny. They sale ones on Amazon for $25 that are exactly like the Lokar ones that are $100. They also have the accelerator cable as well. Lots easier to do from above than on your back.
- Run new tranny cooling tubes.
- Build custom exhaust
-Install heat shield wrap on brake, trans, and fuel lines where they come close to exhaust (headers)
- Make grounding wires from engine to frame, frame to back of dash ( gets connected to back of dash when body on)
- If replacing, do all the front engine belt system
- Run tranny modulator tube to engine vac
-Wrap starter in heat shield
What am I missing?

 

[BtheFelix]

. I make my own charcoal cans for about 5 bucks and they work great…

Can you share any pictures or details?

 

[Soylent]

Nice! Where did you get that wrap for the fuel and brake lines?

 

[Torkman66]

In terms of the heat shield wrap, I've used lots of different types through the years but have settled on what I think is easiest to use. All are available on Amazon.
This is nice because you can put it on wires, brake lines, fuel lines, etc without taking anything apart.:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CRSJP9W/?tag=classicbroncos-20
In areas that are really close to headers (like brake or fuel lines especially), I double wrap. First with this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CD2QQX35/?tag=classicbroncos-20
Then over the top of that with the product above. You do have to slide it over the tube or wire. Does not need to be tight, in fact a bit loose is better and easier to install. In this picture you can see how close a brake line is to the header. Double wrapping avoids having to relocate the line and it keeps the fluid from getting hot. Ive gone back and used ss zip ties rather than the plastic ones. You cab also see that I located the brake block on outside of mount and added a heat shield plate that I made. (moving the rake block requires a bit of trimming on inner fender well at that point)



I also highly recommend starter heat wraps. If your have headers, your starter absorbs a ton of heat. A simple starter wrap keeps it from getting too hot. Not the best picture but here is this one installed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL1O22/?tag=classicbroncos-20

 

[Torkman66]

In terms of the charcoal canisters I'm going to start another thread because so many people through the years have asked about them. It will be easier to find in the title. It will be called "DIY Charcoal Canister."

 

[formula377]

What header did you use?

Im looking to install a set of ceramic coated headers on a carburated 302 with a manual trans.
Tia

 

[DirtDonk]

And I just noticed a couple of things.
Is that an oil pressure sender under your header on the passenger side?
And before you get it on the road, re-orient that steering linkage a bit.
Remember the center link should point the drag link grease fitting up at about 60° or basically up at the bottom of the radiator.

 

[MarsChariot]

When do you plan to drop in the T-case? I ask because that is certainly a lot easier to work with before the body goes in. Much easier to hold and drop from above, plus the linkage, especially twin stick arrangements and linkages are easier to configure before the body gets in the way.

 

[Torkman66]

Yes, that is the oil sender. Is that an issue?
I’ll fix the steering link, good call
Headman headers. Would not recommend them, they required modification. There are many better options.
TC is in. Definitely easier to put on from above.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, that is the oil sender. Is that an issue?

Not necessarily. Just that I've literally never seen one there on a Ford V8-family ("Windsor") before.
This is a full Blueprint engine, correct? Did they put it there, or did you? What is in the original location over by the fuel pump?
Maybe they have found a better location for taking pressure readings?

I’ll fix the steering link, good call

No rush. Before you get it on the road, or try to align it. But doing it sooner rather than later does help ensure it does not get lost in the shuffle.
And if you have an alignment done at a pro shop, make sure to tell the tech to leave it at the angle you put it at. Not the angle that they will likely insist that it should be in.
We've heard that far too often for comfort.

Paul

 

[Double66]

Did you clear coat over where your frame VIN is located?

 

[Torkman66]

Sorry for the delay. Yes, the new Blueprint block 302s have two different oil ports. One in the original location by the fuel pump and another on rear of passenger side. I plan on running two gauges. The one at fuel pump will go to dash gauge and the one on rear passenger side will have a mechanical gauge mounted directly to the port. Or,…..I’ll just plug it

 

[DirtDonk]

Nothing wrong with monitoring your oil pressure while you’re playing around under the hood.
Although, if everything‘s done right, you won’t have to spend time working on the engine. Just looking at it!

Though I wonder if that close proximity to such a high heat source, would affect the output of the sender?

 

[Torkman66]

Agree. Might just use the original location. Wiring harness probably routed for that location as well.