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Trackbar drop bracket and riser questions

Bundy

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
2,045
I am almost ready to intall a 4.5" lift and most likely a TRO steering kit from rock crusher or BC. I have a WH trac-bar riser bracket coming with my lift with an adjustable trac bar and I am wondering a few things:

1. I think I have one of the bolt-over-the-stock drop brackets- can anyone confirm the pic below?

2. Do I keep the drop bracket that is on there or go back to stock mount? Is there any reinforcements I should make?

3. The riser bracket looks like it goes where the stock bracket is- is that correct? Does the bumpstop still work with the riser?
 

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shamu

Lucky as the day is long.
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
5,290
Loc.
Sachse,Tx
Riser bracket

I am almost ready to intall a 4.5" lift and most likely a TRO steering kit from rock crusher or BC. I have a WH trac-bar riser bracket coming with my lift with an adjustable trac bar and I am wondering a few things:

1. I think I have one of the bolt-over-the-stock drop brackets- can anyone confirm the pic below?

2. Do I keep the drop bracket that is on there or go back to stock mount? Is there any reinforcements I should make?

3. The riser bracket looks like it goes where the stock bracket is- is that correct? Does the bumpstop still work with the riser?
You should not need the drop bracket if you are running a riser.
If you run the riser you will need to weld it to the diff. These pics should help.
And or vise versa.
 

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Scrapper_MV

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2006
Messages
948
You can't do TRO with a track bar drop bracket, or at least I couldn't. The tie rod hit the drop bracket when the suspension was compressed. but I couldn't use the riser because it put the track bar too close to my 351W oil pan. So, no TRO for me.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,546
Yeah, what they said. Yours looks like maybe an old Rancho drop bracket, but it's not for-sure.
You do normally take it off if you go with a riser, but as you're changing a lot of things, lay it all out first before making any permanent changes. TRO changes everything. Your draglink angle comes way down, which is a good thing, but you want to keep the trackbar angle as close to the angle of the draglink as is reasonably possible.

Lay it out when you get all the new parts and see what you need to do.

Paul
 

Roadburner

Full Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
168
You can't do TRO with a track bar drop bracket, or at least I couldn't. The tie rod hit the drop bracket when the suspension was compressed. but I couldn't use the riser because it put the track bar too close to my 351W oil pan. So, no TRO for me.

How much lift are you running? If it's 3.5" one of my short risers will work with the 351 double sump pan. I've sold several tall risers for 5" lift and clearence to the oil pan was tight, but I haven't had any reports back that the trac bar actually hit the oil pan.
 

blwngsket

Full Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
315
Loc.
Novato
I use the WH riser. Ditched the Trac Bar drop bracket (too much presure on the frame with 39.5's or any tire for that matter). Went with the Bullet Proof Steering rock proof system that uses Huge hiems. Drilled the knuckles and mounted them on top. The WH riser is a great place to mount my hydro assist ram or a steering damper shock if you are going that route. Love my hydro assist...... As said before. Welding the riser to the axle is a must......
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
If your up to some fab work and some experimenting, move the track bar bracket all the way out to the passenger 'C', and ditch the drop bracket on the frame side. I run a 3.5" suspension lift, Chevy 1 ton TRO steering and a full length track bar with NO bumpsteer and no binding. I know several people who run this setup and everyone recomends it.
 

blwngsket

Full Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
315
Loc.
Novato
Either way is good. All the way out to the C or the stock location. Re weld the factory welds on the trac bar bracket at the frame. These are notorious for failure. (This led to a rollover I was in. Great trip. Great story). When I install my D60 up front I will move the mount on the axle all the way to the C. On my 44 I used the stock location. My trac bar and drag link are perfectly parallel and the drag link mounting location on the tie rod and the trac bar mount location on the axle are in line. 0 bumpsteer. Speed bumps at 55 with no hands on the wheel and it is dead straight. Same speed and just one tire hitting the speed bump with no hands and same thing. Dead straight.
I'm using WH long arms, 5.5" WH springs up front and a Duff's 4 link and WH 3.5" coils in the rear with re centered H1 rims and 39.5" pittbull tires.
 
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Bundy

Bundy

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
2,045
when you guys say "all the way out to the C", isn't the stock location damn close to "all the way"? wouldn't the way to measure where the riser bracket goes would be gauged on where the original mount holes are?

And yeah, i plan on trying to reinforce the stock drop bracket- it looks precarious as is.
 

trailbound

Full Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
217
I see your confusion. The stock track bar mount is just inside the passenger side "wedge". They are recommending that you move the mount as close to the inner "c" or inner portion of the knuckle. I concur as the amount of flex is directly proportional to how long your track bar is.
 
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