Trans Tunnel/Firewall Boot ideas???

[ba123]

I tried every grommet and boot I could find when doing this and eventually decided that this marine boot with a zip tie end would work for me, but now thinking it just might be too rigid to work right. I’ll still try it and see for sure but even if I get it to work, it might not seal well and I’ll have to fill the space with foam or something.


It’s really hard to tell from the pic, and part is blocked but this is at the firewall end of my console. 3 cables are going through and they are all together but too rigid to be touching all together. Hole is about 2” and this is a 2” T-H Marine Cable Boot that has a zip tie integrated at the end.

Now that it’s all together, I’d need a split boot as there is absolutely no way to take off the Dana 20 shift cables (and the 3rd cable is my AOD B&M shifter).

If this boot were softer rubber, it could bend no problem and go against the angled tunnel, but that angle is the problem.
—-
I just tried and no way, it won’t go against the tunnel surface where it needs to attach.

Anyone have any ideas? I can’t seem to find a soft split boot.

 

[Wrightracing]

Maybe a sheet metal bracket that uses two metal brackets that sandwiches a sheet of rubber. Then make a rubber gasket out of neoprene closed cell material. Then use a hot knife or heated piece of metal. Melting it would help not splitting beyond what you want opened up. The metal brackets could be 18g and semi easy to fit to the floor and trans tunnel. Also, use nutserts to bolt the perimeter of the bracket down.

I have King 3 inch shocks going through the floor to the rollcage. When I get to the interior, I plan to use that sheet style seal and use a heated piece of round tubing a little smaller than the shock body. That will keep the dust and dirt out of the cab and move around with the suspension.

On my Art Carr cable shifter, I will be using a standard grommet.

That maybe a option.

David

 

[bronco italiano]

Grommet and butyl sealer tape (it comes in different thicknesses)

 

[Wild horse 75]

What if you made a plate out of 2 pieces of sheet metal so they would come together on the fire wall. Then have 3 smaller holes that are slotted so when the two flat pieces come together makes a single hole in it so you could simply use regular grommets that you split to go around each cable.

 

[ba123]

What if you made a plate out of 2 pieces of sheet metal so they would come together on the fire wall. Then have 3 smaller holes in it so you could simply use regular grommets that you split to go around each cable.

the problem with this is the angle at which the cables go--regular grommets won't work and the cables too close together and too stiff.

But, I think a combination of all these ideas might.

If I can do a 2-part inside the cabin that comes together close to the cables, a c-type piece underneath that the top pieces bolt to, and butyl sealer tape or something I can sandwich in-between and seal, I think that will work great as long as I can get it all in there.

I'll have to mess with this idea later today.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Use an oversized grommet and fill it in with dum dum. The grommet will give the cables rub protection from the sheet metal and the dum dum can fill in the gaps and seal against fumes and water.

 

[bronco italiano]

How big is the hole?
Check out Aircraft Spruce, given your build is aviation spec quality!!

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ap/grommets.html

 

[ba123]

How big is the hole?
Check out Aircraft Spruce, given your build is aviation spec quality!!

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ap/grommets.html

Thanks!

The hole is oval and about 2” at the wide part.

I’ve used seals-it seals and they are great and they have a couple split ones, but it’s such a weird one. I wish that company made a split boot, cause their stuff is top notch.

Maybe I should just find a nice soft 3-4” rubber boot, slice it up the side, cut the metal ring, and overlap it into a smaller DIY split boot. I mean, that’s all a split boot really is.

I think I’m just gonna try this one first and see if I can make it work although, I’m sure it’ll be pretty rigid.
https://thmarinesupplies.com/products/split-cable-boot-with-mounting-ring?variant=697002819612
Not very expensive so at least worth trying.

 

[gnpenning]

Do you know anyone with a 3D printer??

 

[ba123]

Do you know anyone with a 3D printer??

I have one and I’ve made a good number of things for my build with it. I thought about doing something for this but couldn’t decide what to do and sheet metal sandwiched seemed better than that.

You have a thought?

 

[ba123]

Maybe I could print something that fits through the hole, has holes for the cables, a lip so it doesn't go through and then seal it with RTV or seal sealer.

That might be better than a boot.

Lmk if you had a different thought @gnpenning

 

[ba123]

ok, after looking at the hole again, maybe that's why I didn't go this route...there's just no room for that.

the cables are so incredibly stiff and if I pull the console away slightly, the cable rubs the top of the hole.

I'm just gonna wait until this split boot I ordered comes and if that doesn't work, I'll make my own boot.

Will make a frame out of metal and use some fiberglass-silicone fabric like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/87815K2/

Can sandwich it between the frame I make and the body and up like a boot and zip tie it closed.

 

[Wild horse 75]

I know it sound counter productive but you may need to make the hole a bit bigger to give you more working room around the cables.

 

[gnpenning]

I guess you have already answered the question. It was just a thought. Be sure and show what you came up with. I think you have overcome far tougher problems so far. .

 

[ba123]

Ok, so been a while on this. I took my time figuring things out and initially decided to 3d print something that would mount to the firewall and then the bolt I had on there would mount to it. I came up with this:



But I spent more time thinking about it and getting it all together and started not liking it so much and leaning toward the other idea of the fiberglass/silicone fabric.

I cut a bracket from aluminum with one side open and figured out a way to cut the fabric for the boot and stick it with silicone to the main assembly.



Then mounted it:

Then put the reamaining side on.



Once I scoot the console all the way forward, I can zip tie it together. Can fill the space with foam or butyl rubber or whatever, not sure yet if I need to.

I’m happy with that.

 

[bronco italiano]

Ben, this is gonna sound ridiculous but would an accordion type boot help you with all those cables?

 

[ba123]

would be perfect if I could only find one that was a split boot. That’s the problem. I searched and searched for the right boot when I had it apart and couldn’t find one to fit the space and the cables properly and then I thought the one I got would be great, but didn’t realize the angle would make it not work.

I cannot remove those cables.

What I ended up making if better than an accordion boot in the end. Cause it’ll collapse and seal better bring fiberglass and silicone and 500° heat resistance…although won’t get that hot.

 

[nvrstuk]

Tjat piece looks good.

I don't know your space limitations but why couldn't you build a small right angle pc of sheet metal that would attach to the firewall (on either side) with nutzerts then your cables would be exiting the new pc of sheetmetal at a 90 deg angle and a typical grommet would work?

 

[ba123]

Tjat piece looks good.

I don't know your space limitations but why couldn't you build a small right angle pc of sheet metal that would attach to the firewall (on either side) with nutzerts then your cables would be exiting the new pc of sheetmetal at a 90 deg angle and a typical grommet would work?

I thought about that and that’s the same as what I did with the 3D print, but yes, the problem is space.

If you scroll up to the first post, that’s how much room I have there—none.

I think what I did is the best and only solution since the boot is so flexible. I can fill it for a better seal if I decide to, or maybe leave it if I don’t need that since it’s right on top of the trans like a shifter hole.

 

[nvrstuk]

I think you're all over it!

So hard to tell by pics as to actual space constraints but that flexible boot oughtta do it.