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Upgrading Old Fender Flares - Fitment of Warflares?

ColoradoBronc

New Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2020
Messages
43
Hey again ya'll! Continued progress (or at least planned progress at the moment!) on the '68.

I've got a huge set of parts on order, but one of the last items is which flares to do an ideally seamless upgrade of the flares.

Here's what I've got currently - old, cracked, busted flares. Duff maybe? No real idea. Anyone know if there are flares that match up to the same rivet holes as these older ones and may keep me from cutting more fender out?

I was looking at the WH WarFlares, but kind of seems like I'd need to cut quite a bit more to fit them.

And is the general process trim, mock them up, drill 1,287 holes, then rivet them in place?

Thanks in advance for any help/insight!

Screen-Shot-2023-02-03-at-FridayFebruary-3840AM.jpg

Screen-Shot-2023-02-03-at-FridayFebruary-3840AM-1.jpg
 

BronCowie

Contributor
Old Timer
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
8,043
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
I had those also many years ago with the same cracking problem. Replaced them with warflares, the holes did not match as I recall and many here had told me at the time that I would be hard-pressed to find anything that matches exactly. But whatever you do, I would recommend NOT using rivets. I used small machine thread screws and nylox nuts. This alows you to regulate the amount of pressure on the material as to not apply too much stress as rivots would... 'just my $0.02.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,676
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Probably check with duff. They may have new ones from the same or similar mold as what you have. Otherwise I love my warflares. Bigger hole = less body lift if you're going for wheel travel.
 
OP
OP
C

ColoradoBronc

New Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2020
Messages
43
Good call - just submitted an inquiry to Duff - will see what they say. Also, BronCowie, great thoughts on loose-fitting and then using machine thread screws/nylocs. Did you just use like M5 Stainless Allen button head bolts, or what was your preference on them? Any ideal on ideal length?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,737
Are yours plastic or fiberglass? If they are plastic, then there’s better than a 50% chance that they are old white Bushwacker brand flares.
At the time there were other manufacturers, but Bushwacker pretty much owned the market from a very early stage so lots of Broncos got that brand installed.
The good news is they still make a flare with virtually the same dimensions and with any luck the same hole locations.
The fronts probably match almost exactly as far as shape goes, but the rears need to be ordered by model. They now have two different rears.
One is the old, narrow opening with the more vertical angle to the leading edge, like yours. The other is a more modern version, with a wider opening that mimics most of the other flares, including our Waflares.
Almost anyway…

They are unfortunately no longer available in white, and the material they use now is a more rigid and long lasting ABS, which doesn’t crack around the rivet holes near as much as the old ones. If at all…
The early style rear should really not require any additional cutting of your fender unless the previous installer didn’t get them located quite right. The new ones would need more trimming along that leading edge.
Neither is guaranteed to match all the fastener holes, but they often come pretty close.

When I get back to the computer, I’ll search our site which should have pictures of both. But you can also check out the Bushwacker site. Are used to remember the part numbers, but not anymore.
I want to say 50001-02 and 50002-02 for the old ones, but that’s just a vague memory.
Luckily, there is no need for memory anymore, since we have computers!
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
937
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
The reflector in your picture is on the wrong side.
If they are on the correct side the corner won't need to be dented to clear the flare.

2023-02-03_093354.jpg
 

BronCowie

Contributor
Old Timer
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
8,043
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
Also, BronCowie, great thoughts on loose-fitting and then using machine thread screws/nylocs. Did you just use like M5 Stainless Allen button head bolts, or what was your preference on them? Any ideal on ideal length?
I don't recall the screw size other than ~the same size as a rivet. I used black phillips head screws that were long enough for a nylox nut to fully engage the threads, about 1/2" long. Here's a few pics... installed 10 years ago.

Flares.jpg Flares Front.jpg Flares Rear.jpg
 

Rsmith

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2022
Messages
65
Hey again ya'll! Continued progress (or at least planned progress at the moment!) on the '68.

I've got a huge set of parts on order, but one of the last items is which flares to do an ideally seamless upgrade of the flares.

Here's what I've got currently - old, cracked, busted flares. Duff maybe? No real idea. Anyone know if there are flares that match up to the same rivet holes as these older ones and may keep me from cutting more fender out?

I was looking at the WH WarFlares, but kind of seems like I'd need to cut quite a bit more to fit them.

And is the general process trim, mock them up, drill 1,287 holes, then rivet them in place?

Thanks in advance for any help/insight!

Screen-Shot-2023-02-03-at-FridayFebruary-3840AM.jpg

Screen-Shot-2023-02-03-at-FridayFebruary-3840AM-1.jpg
So what did you end up going with? I just got some warflares myself and also feel that the opening may be a little bigger than I want. Anyone know if the toms ultra flex flares are bigger/smaller than warflares?
 

76YETI

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 27, 2015
Messages
870
Loc.
KC METRO
Anyone ever try the push in plastic type rivets? I used black oxide bolts but they are now ugly and a rusting....
 
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