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Wild Horses Lift. A couple questions..

Tram

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
1,189
I'm planning on going with a 3.5" lift. I won't be trailing this rig. It's going to be 95% onroad. It may see some trails, but nothing serious.

I'm looking at the WH lift's and noticed the System 1 and System 3.

Anyone running the System 1? How's the ride?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,550
The ride quality reports you get here will vary all over the spectrum. Depends a lot on the condition of your existing rear springs. It also depends a great deal on what you, as an individual, consider a "good ride".
Some people will appreciate the good handling characteristics, without letting the firmness of the ride bother them. Some will NEVER consider a Bronco as having a good street ride. Period.
Either kit can be a decent ride, but the System 3 stands a better chance of achieving that. At the expense of adding full leaf packs instead of an individual add-a-leaf.
You gets what you pays for.

Setups like these can by necessity be a compromise sometimes though.
Saving money means adding a leaf to an unknown existing spring pack, instead of a scratch-built leaf pack that can be made to be the best of both worlds. It also means using the shocks that we chose for our kits. Rather than a particular model that you've chosen through extensive personal experience, or a custom-valved (as in, expensive) shock to serve your individual tastes and the individual characteristics of your Bronco.

The ride you get from the rear add-a-leaf will depend mostly on the condition of the current spring packs. In some cases, an add-a-leaf like this can actually make them ride better!
It did on mine. And the leaf I used was not as long as the current WH version, so this one should ride even better than the one I used.
Adding to the pack, even though it's a long thin leaf, will by it's very nature increase the spring rate of the leaf pack overall and firm up the ride. We try to make that change as small as possible, but it's just the nature of the beast.
If the existing ones ride super stiff and harsh right now, chances are you'll like the results. If they ride decently right now, you will be more likely to notice at least a slight increase in stiffness.
The advantage is that even though the overall rate is increased, the perceived "harshness" will be reduced because the individual leaves can now slide over each other more smoothly from their new positions.
With the more expensive replacement spring packs of the System 3, we've been able to design in characteristics that enhance the ride while increasing the spring rate and safety factors.
Still "firm" but not as harsh, as stock leaves can be.

The front coils will very possibly ride much smoother than your existing springs. Depends again on what's in there now. I'm running a first-gen set of 3.5" WH coils and they definitely ride smoother than the original, and most of the aftermarket springs that I've used.

The shocks are really going to make a big difference in your ride quality. Here again, opinions are in both camps. Some customers love them, some think they ride to stiff for their liking. Personal preference strikes again.
They're a good compromise (there's that word again) between ride quality and the necessity of maintaining good control while handling corners and road irregularities with a lifted, short wheel-base vehicle.
Softer valving might ride better, but squishy/wallowy is great for the trails. Not so much on the highway.

Here again, each individual Bronco setup can be totally different. How much weight and where it is, how much height and what tires, what driving style. All make a difference in what you need.
That's why it's called a "system" ;D

Here's some food for thought. If your body mounts have never been replaced, you might consider the poly replacements with a built-in 1" lift, the go to the 2.5" suspension instead.
Your overall ride height stays the same, and costs are about the same, but without some of the extra things to deal with that a taller lift entails.
Not like 3.5" is tall by today's standards, but if you have to replace the body mounts anyway, this might be an aspect worth reviewing.

Most people consider 2.5" as not even needing steering modifications. I prefer to correct steering with any amount of lift, but that's just me.
With some Broncos, the trackbar drop is all you need, even for 3.5. But "most" will need the accompanying dropped pitman arm to keep the bars in parallel.
Yours is a '66, correct? If so you might need a specific pitman arm for very early '66 models. Always good to know when ordering stuff.

If your steering linkages are in questionable shape, while doing a lift is the perfect time to update the steering linkage as well.

Sorry if all that was too-much-information. But this is the subject that truly has one thing lead to another.
After all, it's just one big "system" that has to work together if you're going to be happy with the results.

I'm sure you'll get plenty of opinions on the subject. This was just one...

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,550
I forgot to ask how yours is set up now, and what you ultimately want it to look like. Tire size, etc.

And also, since you're starting fresh, now would be a great time to run it on down to an alignment shop to have them give you a printout of your settings. Specifically you want to know what your existing caster readings are.
Armed with this info, when your order your kit you can decide which C-bushings offset to get. They come in offsets from 0 degrees (stock rubber) to 7 degrees of caster correction (7.5 with some brands) to help compensate for lifts.

The standard offset for a 3.5" lift would be 4 degrees. But with most EB's, even 7 is not enough. So knowing what caster you have now will help determine what you need after a lift.

Thanks

Paul
 

RIbronco

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
584
Loc.
Costa Mesa, CA
I've been running the system 1 for about 10 years. When buying the system 1, I was taking the bronco from being non functional to road worthy with the goal of doing this as cheaply as possible.

My experience:
  • On road ride
    If I were to sum it up in one word, it would be: stiff. This really shows on uneven pavement. About a 1" level change at 35mph will set off the hard top gong. The more aggressive speed bumps need to be negotiated at about 5mph to keep the rear tires from leaving the ground. Having a few hundred pounds of stuff in the back helps the ride out a lot, so having a heavy bumper and spare tire hanging off the back would likely help out. I run the stock bumper, no rear seat, no spare, no roll bar, hard top, and have a single gas tank. This makes the rear really lite, not helping the situation at all. Though I don't recommend it, I have had my bronco up to 90mph once and have cruised around 75-80mph for some time. I was expecting it to start getting really floaty past 70mph, but it stayed relatively stable.
  • Cornering (road)
    The one spot were the stiff ride helps though, is cornering. I've had more than one car get themselves into trouble while following me into an off ramp, and this is without sway bars. Having 33" X 12.5 tire, on a wheel that pokes them out past the body a little helps with stability, but as long as you don't try to flick the bronco into a corner, the body roll isn't bad at all.
  • Off road ride
    Once I have the 33" aired down to about 15psi, it smooths out, at street pressure the whole bronco just vibrates. As you can imagine articulation isn't very good and the bronco does a whole lot of body swaying while other broncos, with softer suspensions, keep a more level cab over uneven trails. That said, I've never failed to have fun, off roading, due to the suspension.
  • Other things to consider
    The 3.5" lift gave the bronco bump steer until I changed to a steering linkage kit that moved the drag link out to the passengers steering knuckle. I drove it with bump steer for about four years, and its something you just get use to, but after its gone, you don't miss it.
    The panhard bar drop bracket has never given me any problems, but you have to be sure to weld it per the instructions (I assume they still say to weld it), if you just use the two bolts, you're going to have a bad time.
    While chasing down a vibration, I installed 6° rear axle shims, although it didn't fix what I hoped it would, there was a noticeable reduction in drive line vibration after installation.
    When I bought my setup, I also ordered extended brake lines. Mine needed to be replace regardless, but considering you're about to increase how much they have to extend, it may be a good 'while you're in there' item. Plus you're going to be undoing them anyway, while installing the suspension.

All told, the kit did what I expected it to and acts how WH describes it. No frills and it gets you the look you want. That said, I wouldn't say I made a mistake by getting the system 1, but in hind site, I wish I had saved up a few more weeks and gotten the softer springs and full rear leaf pack.
 
OP
OP
Tram

Tram

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
1,189
Wow. Lots of great info here.

My ride is currently still rockin the stock suspension, as best I can tell. I need to crawl under it and verify.

Sounds like I need the 2.5" with a 1" body and the System 3 lift.

My goal is a nice grocery getter with occasional off road trail riding.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
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