Cheaper Than Therapy: A Build Thread

[nvrstuk]

Love this! ""Over welding is holding the World together", Which is true, improper techniques creating poor quality welds that are just over done keeps the world from literally falling apart."

I want to have my brother print this out in a caligraphy font and attach it to the side of my welder so I get to laugh every time I fire up the "blue light". LOL

 

[marjama]

I always do my best to center the links with the chassis, it does make the geometry better. However I have skewed them pretty severely due to clearance issues, like engines in the way, and really had minimal negative side affects but sometimes in some scenarios they get weird and unpredictable. however .19" you'll never notice, if the aesthetics bother you that much center it but if to help negate the other compromises keep it centered, even though I am positive you'd never notice performance wise and I can promise only you will notice the aesthetics.

As for the welding, single sided is more than adequate. And if for some reason you need to remove it, your cussing a whole lot less..... I'm my own worst enemy, I like the blue light and get carried away...LOL

I have a friend that is a weld engineer and makes his living working with companies optimizing their weld processes for integrity, speed and final product quality. His favorite quote every time he looks at my stuff is "Over welding is holding the World together", Which is true, improper techniques creating poor quality welds that are just over done keeps the world from literally falling apart.

Thanks for the response Steve - always appreciate your insights! (You too Brian!)

I was thinking the same thing as I was welding all of the brackets on - I sure hope I don't have to remove these! I tend to 'over weld' just to compensate for my general lack of skill. Most of the time it's probably totally unnecessary, but on those days when everything is going to hell (you know, the days I don't take any photos ), then it's nice to have backup. One of my old engineering bosses used to call it the "belt and suspenders approach" - you don't need both, but when one fails you'll be glad the other is still there!

I'm going to get it all refitted and tacked up. I'm sure I'll weld it on just a little off center. Maybe I'll weld the oil filler on just a little off center too, so it all looks intentional

 

[Yeller]

Love this! ""Over welding is holding the World together", Which is true, improper techniques creating poor quality welds that are just over done keeps the world from literally falling apart."

I want to have my brother print this out in a caligraphy font and attach it to the side of my welder so I get to laugh every time I fire up the "blue light". LOL

I’d love to have a few of those lol. Shoot me a cost and I’d be happy to pay for them

 

[marjama]

Still creeping along here - rear axle is fully welded up now with the exception of the bump pads, oil filler cap, brake line tabs or sway bar link mounts (which don't exist yet). Now that I type that it sure seems a long way from being done! Once my e-brake calipers arrive I can get to work on brake mounting.

I finished up the new rear joint tower, located it and welded it in place. It's offset, per the original plan (vs centering it just to make it 'look' right). You can see the inner 'drain plate' that I put in this version. It's fully welded from the backside then finished off from the top, creating an enclosed and (hopefully) sealed chamber. Now no more worry about water and fasteners dropping down in there

The more I weld, the more respect I have for guys who are incredible and robotic at it. It's hard to imagine how guys manage to keep the perfection as they go around corners, especially in really hard to reach places!

Last pic is a distraction from this project - it's my "shop truck" that is a '69 F100 short bed. It's always kind of smelled funky inside and had some water leaks. Had a little mold inside from so much moisture, and in my hunt for the smell I pulled the headliner out to find it covered on the backside with the stuff. Bleh! I sprayed it down with hydrogen peroxide on the inside - only to see it leaking on the OUTSIDE. Guess that is one of the mystery leaks. I thought the windshield gasket was leaking. It definitely has some rust issues, so the truck that isn't supposed to be a project now is quietly becoming one. #1stworldproblems

 

[Yeller]

That certainly solves the pond on the axle problem! Super clean work too;D

I have one of those not a project trucks too of the same vintage... that has a mystery leak, my guess is the seam at the drip rail. Only leaks when driving in the rain, never sitting in the rain. Fortunately there is very little in the truck that retains the water.

 

[marjama]

That certainly solves the pond on the axle problem! Super clean work too;D

I have one of those not a project trucks too of the same vintage... that has a mystery leak, my guess is the seam at the drip rail. Only leaks when driving in the rain, never sitting in the rain. Fortunately there is very little in the truck that retains the water.

Thanks Steve! It was a bit of extra work, but it's not like I have a "real" deadline! Got the axle back in the truck tonight (temporarily, of course), and got back to work on my hydroboost clearance issues. Still thinking about that one.

I'm not really a body and paint guy and I don't really enjoy rust repair, but I'm kind of looking forward to working on my other truck - everything on that seems so simple compared to the Bronco! I'm sure I'll manage to find a way to make it complicated though

 

[Yeller]

I'm not really a body and paint guy and I don't really enjoy rust repair, but I'm kind of looking forward to working on my other truck - everything on that seems so simple compared to the Bronco! I'm sure I'll manage to find a way to make it complicated though

Me either that’s why it’s still original paint

 

[sprdv1]

Thanks Steve! It was a bit of extra work, but it's not like I have a "real" deadline! Got the axle back in the truck tonight (temporarily, of course), and got back to work on my hydroboost clearance issues. Still thinking about that one.

I'm not really a body and paint guy and I don't really enjoy rust repair, but I'm kind of looking forward to working on my other truck - everything on that seems so simple compared to the Bronco! I'm sure I'll manage to find a way to make it complicated though

one thing at a time for sure.. Just keep plugging away..

 

[marjama]

I've been a bit distracted trying to clean up my F100 problem, but managed to spend a little time on the Bronco again this weekend.

Started off continuing my quest for a better location for the hydroboost. Looks like I'll be using a remote master cylinder, which I haven't ordered yet. So, this is all guessing a bit. After staring at things for a while I went ahead and removed the stiffener from the firewall, pulled the pedal bracket and slotted the holes. This allowed me to push the entire assembly over enough to easily clear the upper intake manifold and the cross bar. I'd really prefer to rotate the assy 90 degrees to avoid an adapter, but clearance to the steering column is not good in that position. Might be able to raise it a bit though - need the master to figure it out. Just FYI: the firewall sheet metal is basically the equivalent of tin foil once the pedal support bracket and stiffener are removed! I need to do some calcs and get the MC ordered, then I will get to practice welding more really thin sheet metal

Second round of pics...having run into a road block with that adventure, I decided to start tackling the floor pans. Now, I replaced them before...when I was about 20 or so, had almost no tools and definitely didn't know what I was doing. Two things are happening here - the floor under the seat will be extended to match the drivers side, and the rest of the pans are being replaced a little closer to the "right" way. The modification will allow room to fit the muffler underneath outside the frame rails. I tore out a lot of metal and made a TON of grinding dust. Just a friendly reminder to mask up when doing this kind of work!

Definitely have some rust issues down in the lower rocker, but don't plan to have full size rockers when this is all over. More to follow on this once I stare at it some more. If I'm doing sheet metal work, that must mean I'm getting closer to done, right??

 

[sprdv1]

If I'm doing sheet metal work, that must mean I'm getting closer to done, right??

you know it...…

 

[nvrstuk]

Looking good Marcus... little bit at a time...

 

[marjama]

you know it...…

Looking good Marcus... little bit at a time...

Thanks guys - every day I'm slightly closer to having a rolling Bronco again! Hard to believe it has been years since I've driven it at this point. I have way too many projects, but...I've been having fun, so I'm not complaining!

Got notice that my Wilwood electronic e-brake kit and some other misc brackets shipped, so I should be able to get the axles and brakes wrapped up soon. Just gotta design some brackets to hold all of them on! My current goal is to take things out of boxes and put them together and/or on the Bronco - every time I recycle a box from the shop, it's a tiny victory. Just started assembling the 3rd members this week (finally!). Pics to follow.

 

[sprdv1]

Thanks guys - every day I'm slightly closer to having a rolling Bronco again! Hard to believe it has been years since I've driven it at this point. I have way too many projects, but...I've been having fun, so I'm not complaining!

that does become a problem w/too many projects.. Keep plugging away

 

[marjama]

that does become a problem w/too many projects.. Keep plugging away

That's for sure! If only I didn't have a day job that keeps getting in the way ;D

 

[nvrstuk]

Don't feel bad Marcus, I ordered more tubing for my project 3 weeks ago... just had time yesterday to actually start doing some cutting,fitting, welding ...and I'm a week away from needing the tubing. lol

Oh well, least I got started.

Keep at it!!

 

[marjama]

Pattern check!

Hey gang, I suppose I should post this up in the Tech section, but...how about a gear pattern check from the experts?

Here's one diff setup - initial thought was that the pinion was a bit deep given the sharpish line toward the bottom of the pattern, but it's pretty well centered on the tooth and the drive/coast are generally symmetric.

This is an ARB RD99 in a Ford Motorsport nodular housing with Yukon "high performance" 5.43 gears. I kind of wish I had spent a little (lot?) more on the gearset and got something a little higher quality than the Yukons, but they'll do for now. Still need to see how the gear ratio works out with the 700R4 and 37's. I had to do quite a bit of clearancing on the cases to get the ARB to fit, but it all seems good now! Time to get to work on the 2nd one...

 

[Yeller]

All good on the gear set up run it. Pinion is a .0005” too deep. Would rather have that than the opposite. When you load it with torque it will be perfect.

5.43’s are pretty deep but will work for sure. Have 4.56’s and would like 4.88’s but not enough to change. The only reason for 4.88’s is it needs a bit more at interstate speeds other wise it is perfect. I’m not super deep with the tcase either with a 3.0, fits my driving style and gives wheel speed when I need it. More gearing off-road to me just feels like your not allowing the drivetrain to work for you, like the engine never gets a load or can lug when it finds traction and hang on to it. Just my opinions and thoughts.

 

[nvrstuk]

I'm not an expert on tooth patterns, I make what I do work but that looks good Marcus!

I'm with Steve on gearing too deep. I was a DEEP GEAR guy for a dozen years but wheel speed is paramount in some conditions or you don't move- period. So I run very similar gears that Steve mentioned. Taller tires 40" combined with 5.13's and a 6r and I can cruise and never shift down on several mile long 7% grades (if I keep 70 mph & 2050 rpm). 3.0 ProCase is working out well with a TC for creepy stuff & go faster terrain.

I'm thinking 5.43's with 37"s pretty low. Your TC will make a huge difference. I ran 4.56's with 37"s for a decade with a ZF & doubler and went on several 3,000 mile trips- loaded. No complaints for hills.

You'll have plenty of acceleration on the highway.

 

[marjama]

Thanks guys - I figured it looked alright, but it has been a while and the internet is full of BS. I'm sure there are tricks, but it seems to me that there is certainly a limit to how much you can get a pattern to move once it's near the sweet spot without doing anything drastic. I'll get it locked down!

As for gearing...I thought it sounded low when I ordered them too. Honestly, the choice was completely based on highway RPM's! With the .7 overdrive in the 700R4 and a lock up TC it will put me around 2500 RPM at 70mph if my math is right. Seems high by todays standards, but that's about where the 331 seemed to like to run. We'll see - after all of this, I'm expecting to have changes to make once I get it back on the road!

 

[nvrstuk]

You'll be good with those gears, no worries. It'll run out good.