- Joined
- May 28, 2013
- Messages
- 1,980
This ^. I won't even allow the spiral extractors in my shop, the stubby ones for extracting stripped out socket head bolts excepted., possible a straight flute extractor may have better results , the tapered nipple extractors seem to just continue to ream the fitting , plus shavings drop in side cooler ? Not a lot of help but,
Now that you mention that, a buddy’s dad used to work for Ford and when I had to get a broken bolt one day, it came up that he would never use any sort of extractor but would always weld something to it and turn it out.Trying to figure that out as well. Looks like the fitting screwed into a bronze reducer? I can’t claim to have ever done it with bronze but wonder if braze welding a slightly smaller bolt into the fitting could be a last ditch step. I have had it work well over the years welding round steel items like fittings or bearing races. You let it cool well after welding and the molten metal shrinks enough to loosen it up. Braze welding isn’t as hot so I don’t know about the shrink with it. Might be tricky on a fitting that size as well. A small welding tip and brazing rod would give better heat control too.
The typical way that the coolers are fitted to an aluminum or a plastic tank is not very different from a bulkhead fitting. Only these "bulkhead fittings" are attached directly to the cooler inside the tank. I think that the external large nut that you are seeing is the "bulkhead fitting's" nut.






