I have read several comments on the shocks, I have a 1974 with 3.5" lift, 33" tires and fixing to have a coyote motor installed. I'm needing new shocks and was wondering if 2 per corner would be the way to go. The wife and I are planning on driving the bronco more than we have in the past, it will be drove on the payment not the trail.
Community
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
Fuel Tank Access Plate
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
How Many Shocks per Axle
- Thread starter Encore308
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2007
- Messages
- 8,778
One per corner.
One. Modern shocks designed for our trucks are more than adequate. The days of 2+ shocks per corner are gone in my opinion….
it all depends on why you need shocks.
The notion that you only need one shock per wheel is not always the case, depending on what you need.
Leaf spring rear suspension needs to control axle tramp. Which is normally done by placing one shock in the Clockwise direction, and one in the Counter Clockwise direction. It is called "staggered shock" design. The Trans-Am 4 speed Mustang's got staggered shocks. Every Chevy pickup got staggered shocks. Dodge went staggered in 1994, and F150 got them in the lightning in 1999, and the rest of the F150's in 2004. So every major manufacturer finally got around to it. (less weight on the rear end, with more power)
I would rather have 4 Sensen Shocks (RockAuto for $4.12ea) staggered in the rear than a pair of anything in the catalog. Because I have power, I use power, and my rear axle hops a lot. And rock crawler springs LOVE axle wrap.
Up front, there's nothting that a single Bilstein 5100 can do that a pair of good 70/30 gas charged Nitro's can't do better. Or at least similar but for much longer. But I like my suspension firm, and overdamped. I am NOT looking for a plush ride. I do NOT want comfort and luxury in my Bronco. If I want a road floater, I'll drive a Town Car. I want confidence, I want the front end planted. BECAUSE I get a ton of compliance in my 35 inch sidewall.
If you have 4 link rear, totally different story.
So the valving in a 4300lb Bronco on 35' is totally different that the valving in a 4300lb Tesla on 295/35/21's.
If you are shopping for Shocks, there are three ways to do it.
1. Buy a set of fully adjustable multi valve, tuneable compression and rebound "tools" and configure them for your use case, and optimize them for your preference...
2. Buy a set of shocks from a trusted vendor that has already done your homework for you.
3. Copy something proven that works.
3a. Test drive that configuration in a similar Bronco, or solicit feedback from actual users that do similar activites and similar driving. Do NOT use feedback from bench racers, or keyboard warriors. You want feedback from someone (with video proof) that shows how it WORKS.
In 1998, I had an Electrical contractor doing a job at my worksite. He was an auto enthusiast, and was driving a 2WD Ford Explorer. He had installed a set of Edelbrock IAS shocks, (one per wheel) and he was raving about their performance. Recommended highly. One day I went for a drive at lunchtime in that station wagon. OMG. That guy drove HARD. We went to his garage, and without exaggerating, he had at least 10 sets of practically new shocks of various brands that he ran at the track for 1-2 days and discarded. (Don't judge a book by it's cover...)
If you have the mounts for dual shocks in the rear... use them, (or go staggered.)
The notion that you only need one shock per wheel is not always the case, depending on what you need.
Leaf spring rear suspension needs to control axle tramp. Which is normally done by placing one shock in the Clockwise direction, and one in the Counter Clockwise direction. It is called "staggered shock" design. The Trans-Am 4 speed Mustang's got staggered shocks. Every Chevy pickup got staggered shocks. Dodge went staggered in 1994, and F150 got them in the lightning in 1999, and the rest of the F150's in 2004. So every major manufacturer finally got around to it. (less weight on the rear end, with more power)
I would rather have 4 Sensen Shocks (RockAuto for $4.12ea) staggered in the rear than a pair of anything in the catalog. Because I have power, I use power, and my rear axle hops a lot. And rock crawler springs LOVE axle wrap.
Up front, there's nothting that a single Bilstein 5100 can do that a pair of good 70/30 gas charged Nitro's can't do better. Or at least similar but for much longer. But I like my suspension firm, and overdamped. I am NOT looking for a plush ride. I do NOT want comfort and luxury in my Bronco. If I want a road floater, I'll drive a Town Car. I want confidence, I want the front end planted. BECAUSE I get a ton of compliance in my 35 inch sidewall.
If you have 4 link rear, totally different story.
So the valving in a 4300lb Bronco on 35' is totally different that the valving in a 4300lb Tesla on 295/35/21's.
If you are shopping for Shocks, there are three ways to do it.
1. Buy a set of fully adjustable multi valve, tuneable compression and rebound "tools" and configure them for your use case, and optimize them for your preference...
2. Buy a set of shocks from a trusted vendor that has already done your homework for you.
3. Copy something proven that works.
3a. Test drive that configuration in a similar Bronco, or solicit feedback from actual users that do similar activites and similar driving. Do NOT use feedback from bench racers, or keyboard warriors. You want feedback from someone (with video proof) that shows how it WORKS.
In 1998, I had an Electrical contractor doing a job at my worksite. He was an auto enthusiast, and was driving a 2WD Ford Explorer. He had installed a set of Edelbrock IAS shocks, (one per wheel) and he was raving about their performance. Recommended highly. One day I went for a drive at lunchtime in that station wagon. OMG. That guy drove HARD. We went to his garage, and without exaggerating, he had at least 10 sets of practically new shocks of various brands that he ran at the track for 1-2 days and discarded. (Don't judge a book by it's cover...)
If you have the mounts for dual shocks in the rear... use them, (or go staggered.)
Last edited:
ntsqd
heratic car camper
It's really going to depend on you and your wife's idea(s) of ride quality, and your budget for shocks.
If you don't mind spending at least a grand on shocks, maybe two, then call Accutune and be prepared to be amazed at just how good an expensive set of shocks can work.
Coil springs require more damping than leaf springs. In their stiffest off the shelf valve stack (360/80) a single Bilstein 5100 or 7100 per corner may not be quite enough up front, so two per tire up front may be required depending on what you want it to ride like.
Assuming that you're not going to be stop-light drag racing the rears will be fine with one 5100 or 7100 per tire. If you are or might, then re-read what James said above about rear shocks.
If you don't mind spending at least a grand on shocks, maybe two, then call Accutune and be prepared to be amazed at just how good an expensive set of shocks can work.
Coil springs require more damping than leaf springs. In their stiffest off the shelf valve stack (360/80) a single Bilstein 5100 or 7100 per corner may not be quite enough up front, so two per tire up front may be required depending on what you want it to ride like.
Assuming that you're not going to be stop-light drag racing the rears will be fine with one 5100 or 7100 per tire. If you are or might, then re-read what James said above about rear shocks.
Suspension wise my Bronco is stock with 31" tires. I just do normal city and highway driving. I run cheap Gabriel or whatever shocks that Autozone sells, one per corner, and have no complaints. I drive faster than most in fairly straight lines and slow down for corners. Bronco is a high center vehicle and I drive it as such. If I want to do "spirited" driving I'll take my sons vette out. If your Bronco is mostly stock with 33's and you just drive around town you'll be fine with one per corner.
Last edited:
ntsqd
heratic car camper
Off-topic, "Encore" as in T/C?
Yes
I have one in 30-06. Easiest/lightest rifle carrying in the woods.
I have a 308, very accurate, shoots subsonic nice as well
Chiclassics
Full Member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2025
- Messages
- 253
on pavements one is good is enough, modern shocks are tough .
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2024
- Messages
- 395
300 Weatherby, Nikon scope. We have some pretty big critters up here in Canada.
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2024
- Messages
- 395
300 Weatherby Nikon scope. We have some pretty big critters up here in Canada.
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2007
- Messages
- 8,778
even heavy offroad/rockcralwing, you only need 1 per corner. BUUUUT, if you are racing, high speed, full suspensions swings many times per minute over hours, more than one shock allows you to double the heat dissipation capability.
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2007
- Messages
- 8,778
you wouldn't be in Prince George working a transmission shop would you?
ntsqd
heratic car camper
Put one of those together for a friend. Sighted inch high at 100 with 150's meant no hold-over out to 500 yards, which was well beyond what he felt was ethical for him. He wasn't after the big beasties, but when his -06 failed to put down a wild boar that then charged him he decided that he wanted something that assured DRT.
Similar threads
City: Atlanta, GA
Price: $OBO
City: Tucson
Price: $11500
