Recent content by EPB72

tthe ability to do what you’re saying. I just don’t have the time. I think I’m just gonna go ahead and buy a box and a pump combo from one of our vendors. I just happened to look on Summit and they have a whole system for 1000 bucks. Wow yes I might be able to save a few dollars doing the...

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1975/dodge/charger/parts/F402.html?gclid=a4d8d8e1605117351f3bb20c70fc9f59&gclsrc=3p.ds&&gclid=a4d8d8e1605117351f3bb20c70fc9f59&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=a4d8d8e1605117351f3bb20c70fc9f59&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BL%20-%20Microsoft%20-%20Class...

dont have an answer for your specific pump,, BUT havent seen any intank pump in the OE world that didnt have a check valve .. dosent mean they hold pressure indefinitly some hold pretty long ,but some vehicle test procedures have a pressure drop over a specified time , anything after that is...

New would be a repop.. A year or so ago had a customer with a 91 f 250 with replacment arms they sucked drivers was workable passenger slipped on splines actually got 3 more to get one that actually fit good enough to work finding a good used one would be a better option ,, As far a as wiper...

so theres no hazard switch on the column pretty sure a stock 74 would have been column mounted as well as most all of the tilt columns out there .. pictures may help. being able to ID what your working with would help,

Yes .. I’ve had a set for 7-8 years mine are MAC but pretty much the same..

Brass tooth brush type brush . Can use spray brake clean or use spray carb cleaner and spray a little on brush directly .. but first scrape as much as possible off trans case as I said above the carbide scrapers work great for this with little effort . If your working on stuff regularly there...

yep putty knife as ba123 said Clean up carbide scraper on trans case a new razor blade edge perpendicular to case surface works as well ,, some carb cleaner and brass wire brush works. Pan you can be a little more aggressive , if pan has the grooves on the sealing surface wire brush works...

yes they originate at the same terminal at the ignition switch,, but be carefull if your splicing in on the coil B+ feed wire as that wire shortly after leaving ignition switch has the resistor wire .. SO you would need to spice in before the resistor wire . or replace terminal at Ignition...

https://www.novak-adapt.com/instructions/132-1520-ax15-to-ford-bronco-d20 don't know if you found this or seen it ,, but scrolling through there really isn't any clocking detail , but is some instructions.

Lets clarify your heads have screw in studs with guide plates and poly locks,, and are not pedestal mounted rockers? so if 3/8 stud then 1/2- 3/4 turn generally puts the preload where needed , still lifter manufacture should have recommended spec,....if you error on less preload you might have...

FWIW the connectors on modern vehicles can be just as bad or worse ,, very brittle especially when buried under all these engine covers ,,

Depends on the lifter , usually the manufacture would provide that info .. Some could be 0 preload . no oil in lifter and plunger can start to depress with very little effort so zero lash takes a little light touch. seems most are zero lash and about .060 preload{ some will give you a range }...

I'd be looking at the parking brake ,,, first is there some slak in the cables ? or not returning all the way check where all three connect . but before that check the spreader park link bar that goes across between the shoes atrest there should be about 1/8-3/16 inch play .. I'm suspecting the...

My 72 . built 10/71 california emisions , 4900gvrw , was equiped TRS had both the switch and temp sensor and the wire was there but cut off ,, the rest of it was long gone so prior to me buying it in 1989 someone was passing it during emissions testing.. .. I do recollect that the emissions...