Recent content by Viperwolf1

Maybe I wasn't clear in my above post. Where you are seeing 10V, you should see 12V. I suspect something is damaged in the windshield frame harness. Perhaps you could bypass that harness to test that.

Correct. None of the 4 wires on the motor is a ground.

You should have 12V on both blue and white-black in their switch positions. This tells me you have a huge voltage drop in the switch or wiper wiring. Big voltage drop means a lot of resistance and not enough current to get your motor running. The park circuit wires are not necessary to make the...

There's your problem, now. That green-red wire comes from the ignition switch but it does go through the C206 connector at the passenger firewall. That connector is in a bad location as it tends to get wet and corrode the terminals there.

"A" terminal needs 12V at all times. "S" terminal should be 12V switched with the ignition. "F" voltage will only be present with the ignition on.

0 volts on the field is a problem. You can't develop output without current at the field. Check this voltage back at the regulator F terminal. If you don't have it there, either the regulator is bad or you don't have 12V at the green-red wire to turn the regulator on.

Pedestal mount rocker heads are 5/16"-18 thread. That's 18 turns per inch of bolt. One turn would be 1"/18, or .056". 3/4 of a turn would be about .042".

Reminded me of something I saw in La Paz in 2023.

The only wire with power (key off) are circuit 1 (blue-yellow, horn). Circuit 19 (blue-red, PRNDL indicator light) only has power when lights are on. Circuit 810 (red-black, stop lights) only has power with the brake pressed. Circuits 44 (blue, turn signal) and circuit 385 (white-red, hazard)...

You're only going to find selective sizes for the small one (#2 washer) and the plastic one (#1 washer). You need to first figure out what size you need for the #2 washer before you can tell the size needed for the #1 washer. Do this by assembling the c4 with a thin #2 and no #1 washer...

That is the transmission regulated spark solenoid vacuum valve. Nope. I misidentified it. I think James is right with the distributor vacuum advance control valve. At least I had a picture of it. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/vacuum-electrical-question.259344/#post-2758452

That looks like it could be the plunger.

Could be a broken PCV valve.

If the angles were working good before the lift, then the rod length is the only thing that needs to be changed.

The big difference is the explorer pump shaft is threaded at the end for the fan to attach. Mustang pump is not because it used an electric fan. Pulley flanges may have some differences in bolt pattern and/or offset.